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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi doddsy and while the isolator by itself sounds cheap but what about cabling, terminals, circuit breaker/fuse, battery hold down bracket and all the other hardware needed?
Setting up a dual battery system from scratch can be achieved quite cheaply if you already have the basics but for most people there will need to be a lot more to it than just buying an isolator.
As I posted earlier in this thread, someone contemplating fitting a dual battery system needs to look not only at the hardware needed but what they get in the way of benefits and/or drawbacks with the different systems available.
A perfect example is shown in another thread is running at this time and while I and others have posted up what help we can, the OP has now taken more than 5 weeks and the set up is not yet up and running.
On the other hand, while my kits work out much dearer up front, they do come with comprehensive instruction specifically designed to help any DIYer to be able to do the job themselves.
This is not the case with basic off the shelf isolators.
A few years back, I had a D3 customer in Melbourne post up a reply on AULRO forum, complaining at how long it took him to fit my kit.
He had taken 22 minutes and what he was actually complaining about was that it would have been quicker but he had to unpack and unwrap the Optima battery, which slowed him down.
I have have a new L322 Range Rover kit and I had a customer have one fitted two weeks ago.
From the time he drove into my workshop and turned off the motor till we started the motor to test the dual battery installation was 35 minutes.
This is where the higher cost comes in and where the average DIYer gets the benefit of not having to learn how to install the system before they actually carry out the install.
It’s horses for courses! 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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 30th Oct 2012 12:03 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi methley and as I posted, someone considering fitting a dual battery system, particularly in regards to a D3, D4 and RRS, need to know quite a few factors before starting.
In this case, you need to know the vehicles operating voltages as well as what you want to get from a dual battery system and you need to be careful of off the shelf isolators with the wrong Cut-In and Cut-Out voltages.
The Cut-In and Cut-Out voltages on that one are both too high for a new Landy and I also find it strange that they list a maximum size for the battery bank.
The size of the battery bank really has little to do with the operation of an isolator.
You need to know where the batteries are and what type are being used before putting any limits on what you can charge.
The D3 and D4 are a perfect example. In both vehicles, the biggest Optima that can be fitted under the bonnet is D34, 55Ah battery.
I use an Optima as the example as these are the fastest charging batteries you are likely to get, which means the highest current draw.
The maximum current draw I have heard of is 97 amps going into a 55Ah Optima in a D3.
The instant the batteries are mounted somewhere else in the vehicle or in a camper trailer or caravan, the cable used to connect the battery(s) to the front of the vehicle becomes a quasi voltage/current regulator and as such, neither the size or type of battery ( battery bank ) makes any difference what so ever. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 30th Oct 2012 8:19 pm |
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methley
a.k.a. Big Hairy Ski Monster
Member Since: 07 Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, South Glos
Posts: 2433
  
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I fitted one of these some years ago, before it had any timer functionality, and earlier this year replaced it with the version you now see on the site. Both have worked absolutely fine for me in this time.
Although you may disagree, I am not an idiot and can understand perfectly well how this works. It ticks all the boxes in my book, according to my requirements (i want my batteries to be isolated when the engine is not running and don't want any drain on the main battery). My 55Ah yellow Top has been perfectly happy with it for 4 years now as well.
BTW, as far as I can see, the relay description makes no reference to size of battery? Andy
Fridge Slide for sale https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2064622.html#2064622
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| 30th Oct 2012 8:32 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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methley wrote: I am not an idiot and can understand perfectly well how this works.
methley, I made no suggestion that you were an idiot, and while you may know how the device works, you also need to know how the voltages work in your vehicle and I simply pointed out that those voltages do not suit new Landies.
BTW those voltage don’t suit many new vehicles, not just landies.
I’ve monitored the voltage operations of quite a few D4s now and those voltage levels will see the isolator cutting in and out as you drive along. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 30th Oct 2012 8:43 pm |
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methley
a.k.a. Big Hairy Ski Monster
Member Since: 07 Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, South Glos
Posts: 2433
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At no point have I ever measured my D3 alternator output at < 12.9v for more than 10 seconds. From memory on starting the charging voltage goes up to around 14.5 - 15v. After a while it settles to around 13.5v. The relay is fine. It works. Andy
Fridge Slide for sale https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2064622.html#2064622
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| 30th Oct 2012 8:46 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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methley, you are not the only one reading this thread and as I CLEARLY posted, the problem will occur in NEW landies, such as D4s, where their voltages can and do drop below 12.9v. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 30th Oct 2012 9:17 pm |
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doddsy72
Member Since: 04 May 2011
Location: Exmouth WA
Posts: 29
 
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Hi Drivesafe
Thanks for the reply,
You are of course right, the devil is in the detail.
Additional costs to apply, I guess like lots of fellow enthusiasts I have bits and bobs lying around.
The costs were not that high though, Cable and connectors, Stainless steel threaded bar ( for battery lock down ). Came to around $50 all up. Fuse or Circuit breaker whatever your pref ranged from $10 upwards.
So plus the $120 for the isolator it was a good price I felt.
The D3 does make it easy to fit a dual battery with tie down points fitted, a place to fit the battery and earthing post next to the aux battery.
I am not suggesting this solution is for everyone, and I am sure you solution is great, with full instructions. I also have no idea how much your solution is either? Of course if you want to send me a free one I can test and compare it 
I was just just offering my experience of fitting a DIY solution on the D3.
The red arc came with install instructions, ( not D3 Specific ) But more than adequate to complete the job.
Like you said the Optima batteries do suck down the Amps if they have been used heavily, so careful fuse selection is essential
Horses for courses.
Have a good day..
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| 30th Oct 2012 9:19 pm |
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methley
a.k.a. Big Hairy Ski Monster
Member Since: 07 Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, South Glos
Posts: 2433
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drivesafe wrote:methley, you are not the only one reading this thread and as I CLEARLY posted, the problem will occur in NEW landies, such as D4s, where their voltages can and do drop below 12.9v.
OP has a D3  Andy
Fridge Slide for sale https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2064622.html#2064622
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| 30th Oct 2012 9:21 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi again doddsy and I actually would have thought you would have been able to do it for less.
My equivalent kit, with the isolator, cut and per assembled cabling, circuit breaker, LR battery bracket and bolts, battery terminal clamps, everything but the battery is only $240, including postage in Oz.
Seriously, your price does surprise me some what 
I think I better put my prices up  2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 30th Oct 2012 10:51 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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methley wrote:drivesafe wrote:methley, you are not the only one reading this thread and as I CLEARLY posted, the problem will occur in NEW landies, such as D4s, where their voltages can and do drop below 12.9v.
OP has a D3
So you are saying only D3 owners should read this thread 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 30th Oct 2012 10:52 pm |
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doddsy72
Member Since: 04 May 2011
Location: Exmouth WA
Posts: 29
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I guess you could get bits cheaper if you wanted , like the fact I insisted on Stainless bar to hold the battery in.
the redarc is now on ebay for $105 with loads of bits that I didnt get.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDARC-SBI12-DU...160wt_1156
Still at $240, your system seems very reasonably priced and comprehensive. Nice 1
I'll try yours when SWMBO authorises a D4 
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| 31st Oct 2012 2:43 am |
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