Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
How To? - Change Front Driveshaft Boots
My D3 failed it's MOT today on a split inner CV boot
I was quoted almost £250 for my local dealer to do the work, So I bought a OEM boot kit, which contains everything you need for £35, and replaced both boots myself, it wasn't too diffcult, (with some help from Pagan UK as a willing assistant)
Shaft with nice new boots
I'll add a write up and some more pictures showing how we did it - using nothing more than normal home mechanic tools soon Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
28th Aug 2010 10:53 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
nice one Steve!
You must of nearly done those final 4k to reach 105k have you?
Cant wait to read your write up on changing cam and ancillary belts!
rgds
DSD
Darrell
29th Aug 2010 6:54 am
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
Nah, just on 102.5k at the moment, and I think Disco Mikey has already beaten me to it on a very comprehensive write up on doing the timing belt etc
I'll have to find something that no one has had the courage to do I guess
SteveNever get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
29th Aug 2010 4:48 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
As promised, here is how I changed the drive shaft boots on my D3
You will need:-
An assistant (a BIG thanks to Pagan UK )
A good trolly jack, I used a 2 ton one
Axle stand(s)
Comprehensive socket set (1/2" and 3/8" will do) as long as you have a 32mm socket for the hub nut
Various hand tools, pliers, junior hacksaw etc
Some wire, string or strong cable ties (to support the brake caliper)
Copper slip grease.
Cleaning fluid - (I used inert solvent based, but petrol would be ok, anything that does not leave a residue)
Container (to catch the diff oil)
0.61 ltr of 75W90 gear oil (I used Castrol)
Boot Kit (LR part No TDR500100)
Hub Nut (LR part No RFD500020)
Patience
Lots of cups of tea
Anyone contemplating changing the drive shaft CV boots, would also find this write up very helpful, as a lot of the initial tasks are the same http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic31160.html
Start by loosening (just) the road wheel nuts, and jacking the vehicle and supporting on axle stand(s) as I was only doing the front nearside, I only lifted the one corner, then remove the road wheel.
Refer to the manual for jacking positions if your unsure
Underneath, remove the sump plate, and undo the diff drain plug (3/8" socket end fits) there isn't much, just over a pint (0.61 ltr) allow the oil to drain into a suitable container, and replace the plug and tighten (or you'll forget, and then replace the sump plate. That's the only task under the vehicle
With the help of your assistant, (they need to apply the brakes) undo the big nut in the middle of the hub (32mm, and I used a breaking bar with a length of scaffold pole to give some leverage) no need to completely remove it at this stage, then remove the brake caliper complete, and support out of your way, being careful not to twist or damage any of the brake hoses or wires, in particular take care of the wear sensor, as they can be quite fragile.
You should then have got this far:
I then removed the brake back plate (not totally necessary) but allows some extra room to see what you're doing !
Undo the top swivel joint, and break apart, usually a sharp strike with a hammer will be all that's needed, remove the hub nut:
(I know, the drive shaft is already out in this picture, but . . .)
Then 'just' pull out the drive shaft you may need to give it quite a sharp pull for the spring clip to release:
This is were a bence vice is handy, but a work mate would do just as well
Start to remove the boot clips at the INNER end first:
and cut the large one with a junior hacksaw:
Pull apart the CV joint, remove the circlip on the end of the splined end, and gently drift the roller bearing unit off the end of the shaft.
then clean carefully and thoroughly, it should then look similar to this:
remove the 2nd boot (outer end) in the same way, and carefully clean everything, I can't over stress making sure that everything is absolutely spotless is very important, as any grit or other debris in the bearings will reduce the life of the CV bearings, and could cause premature failure. (expensive )
once it is all nice and clean, start to reassemble, slide the outer boot on first, (a smear of grease on the shaft will help) and repack the bearing with graphite grease (pack A in the kit)
Slide on the new boot:
Slide on the 2nd inner boot:
and then repeat with the inner CV assembly, Not forgetting to replace the circlip, repack using the lithium grease (pack B in the kit)
note: the outer CV uses a graphite based grease, whilst the inner one uses a lithium based one
Now comes the tricky bit (unless you have the special tool for crimping the band clamps) as I did not have access to this tool, I had to improvise, the band has a raised section which needs to be pinched together to tension the whole band, I used a pair or pilers, which fitted nicely, and the trusty bench vice
I was actually quite surprised how good a job it made, but I dare say the purists amoung you will cringe at my method. Finally you get to this stage:
The you can start the refit task, firstly clean and apply a smear of grease to the inner oil seal (LR suggest a special tool for inserting the shaft - they would !!)
Again, in the kit there is a new clip, make sure this is fitted, and slide the shaft in to the differential, I was just very careful not to pinch the seal as the shaft slid in:
Then refit the shaft into the hub, I smeared with a little copperslip incase I ever need to do this again, or change a hub bearing etc, and raise the whole hub unit to refit the top swivel joint back together:
Once this is completed, it's plain sailing to refit a new hub nut (loosely for now) and the hub back plate, brake caliper and brake hoses etc.
Then with your assistant again pressing on the brake pedal, tighten the hub nut to 350lbs/ft torque, refill the differential with oil (only 0.61 of a litre is required)
Replace the road wheel, lower to the ground and your done Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
Last edited by disco_steve on 30th Aug 2010 9:56 am. Edited 13 times in total
29th Aug 2010 5:03 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26779
This post has been edited by the site administration team
Nice one Steve I hope you don't mind me editing the title to make it easier to search in the future.
29th Aug 2010 5:30 pm
CJM625
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 258
How long did that take please?2015 BMW i3 REX
2014 Golf GTD DSG
29th Aug 2010 5:34 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
Gareth wrote:
This post has been edited by the site administration team
Nice one Steve I hope you don't mind me editing the title to make it easier to search in the future.
Not in the slightest (was still adding pictures though )Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
29th Aug 2010 5:37 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18573
Fantastic write up, thanks 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
29th Aug 2010 5:39 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
The whole job took me around 4 hours (but I had lunch and numerous tea stops, as well as taking all the pictures)
So . . I would think it could be done in approx 2 - 3 hours without all the stopping
However - you can spend a LOT of time getting the drive shaft to release from the hub, I was very lucky, it came out without too much fuss and some help from Pagan UK, I have heard stories that this part alone can take an hour or more Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
29th Aug 2010 5:41 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Great write up Steve
Just might want to add that people should put the circlip back on before re-assembly otherwise it could pop off Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
29th Aug 2010 5:43 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
Bodsy wrote:
Great write up Steve
Just might want to add that people should put the circlip back on before re-assembly otherwise it could pop off
Cheers Bodsey, well spotted, and duly amended, also added the other inner 'clip' which I'd omitted to mention, and have edited a few bits here and there to (hopefully) make it read a bit better
(this is my first full write up - that's my excuse, btw, is there an easy way to add your pictures from the galley, or is it one at a time ?)
p.s. you would have a set of timing pins by any chance, as that 's the next major job
Cheers, SteveNever get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
29th Aug 2010 6:03 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Sorry no pins here. Can't remember who recently did theirs, but I'll need some in about 40,000 miles Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
29th Aug 2010 8:01 pm
pa28pilot
Member Since: 08 Mar 2009
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 204
Boot cover
Great write up any chance of putting it in wiki so it can be accessed in the future.
Cheers Don't be blinkered vision, see the world in colour.
29th Aug 2010 8:30 pm
trynian
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: California
Posts: 67
Yes, good work.
30th Aug 2010 1:53 am
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
Thanks Steve - excellent write-up
disco_steve wrote:
refill the differential with oil (only 0.61 of a litre, and when you see a trickle from the filler hole, that's enough (assuming the vehicle is now on the level)
I thought that the front diff, rear diff and transfer were filled by volume only....I mean that the trick of filling until oil starts to trickle out of the filler hole was only applicable to the auto box. 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
So I bought a OEM boot kit, which contains everything you need for £35, and replaced both boots myself, it wasn't too diffcult, (with some help from Pagan UK as a willing assistant) 
)
