Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Spot light wiring loom connector
Hi
Was wondering is someone may recognise this grey connector plse , it’s goes onto the genuine spot lights , thought at first it was a amp connector but they are narrower , placed one next to it as a comparison
Of course if it comes to it I could just cut it off and fit a super seal connector but would be nice if I’m able to get the connector
Numbers on the connector are
PBT-GF30K 1355665-2
Would be so grateful plse , Many thks
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
13th Nov 2021 3:22 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18558
It's designed to plug directly onto H11 bulbs
There's no matching socket available from the original manufacturer, but there do seem to be male H11 leads on eBay/Aliexpress originating in China.
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Bless you as that’s very helpful and will order some of those
Funny enough came across some amp super seal boots and to be honest hadn’t seen them before , just thought they would be ideal , plus hopefully they may be useful to anyone else
Will be mounting either spots or curved lightbar on the front A nudge bar, can’t decide as of yet , did get the spotlight A bar mounting kit
Should be fun putting the spot light wiring loom in as see I’ve got to connect into the fuse box but doesn’t look to difficult
Thks so much once again
13th Nov 2021 4:24 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
Mr GS, where did you get the "A" bar mounting kit from?
20th Nov 2021 7:25 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Hiya
In the end got the impact bar brackets made because there obsolete , also found out there are 2 x kits depending on what A bar u have
Still need to get the bolt sleeves , my plans in the spring are to upgrade my D3 halogen headlights with D4 xenons and D4 wings ( already have these ) but keep the D3 bumper so I can fit the D3 A bar
Did manage to buy the top brackets for the A bar that secures to the grill and the headlight mounting blocks as both still available
Hope that helps a little
20th Nov 2021 7:35 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
Thanks, still looking for a kit
20th Nov 2021 7:53 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Ur so welcome
20th Nov 2021 8:03 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
So been looking at theses 7 inch Led spots for my A bar, think they look better than a lightbar
Plus will ensure the bolts can’t come off very easily along with a few other ideas to try and prevent theft the best I can
They work out around £90 per pair , plus see they have like DRL’s , but expect I’ll wire for both parts of the spots to come on together , having the dashboard switch so can isolate them from the high beam if so required
Many thks
Specs
Dual voltage 12/24v
15x Long life LEDs
40w
Water and dust proof to IP67
EMC Approved (R10)
ECE R112 Approved
Corrosion free die cast aluminium housing with stainless steel fixings
Tough polycarbonate lens
3800 Lumens
125m Beam distance
6000K Daylight colour output
3 Year warranty
Supplied with mounting bracket (single M10 mounting bolt)
Current draw: 3.33A @ 12v, 1.66A @ 24v
21st Nov 2021 10:55 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Must admit hadn’t seen these before with regards to security nuts
21st Nov 2021 12:01 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1812
Hopefully you never have to remove them.
28th Nov 2021 1:41 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Indeed
One thing I’m not looking forward to is cutting in the Aux switch seeing the original position is all incorporated into the dashboard
Must admit really like the way this switch was installed but alas can’t find the original post
Last edited by gstuart on 28th Nov 2021 5:30 am. Edited 2 times in total
28th Nov 2021 3:25 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Martin wrote:
It's designed to plug directly onto H11 bulbs
There's no matching socket available from the original manufacturer, but there do seem to be male H11 leads on eBay/Aliexpress originating in China.
As always a massive thank u , they fitted a treat onto the loom connectors
Very grateful to u as you saved me endless hours of searching
Thks again
28th Nov 2021 3:27 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Hope everyone is keeping safe and well
Was wondering if anyone can help me plse , apologises as always in advance for the daft question , but wish to use a non standard spot light switch , as I’ve got the centre dashboard switch panel it will make like a lot easier
Looked at the carling switches but for the life of me can’t seem to work out what colour wire should go into what pin of the carling switch
Have found the carling pin layout but not what wire from the loom goes to what pin into the back of the carling switch
Hope that sort of makes sense , picture below
As always would be extremely grateful , Thks so much
Click image to enlarge
28th Nov 2021 8:46 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14103
Thought I would at least write out the carling PIN numbers to at least make life easier
Pin 1 - power in
Pin 2 - power out
Pin 3 - link to pin 2
Pin 7 - earth
Pin 8 - sidelight
Edit , just found this but alas still unsure where the wires below should go into the carling switch above
1: Switched Ground Out (Grounded when switch pressed down) - to relay coil pin 85
2: Illumination +12V
3: (Not Connected)
4: Ground
5: Spotlight +12V (illuminates orange LED when spots are on) - to relay output pin 87
The terminals of your relay should be connected as follows:
85: Coil -ve: to switch pin 1
86: Coil +ve: to main beam feed
30: In: Fused input 12V
87: Out: To spots and switch pin 5
Many thks
28th Nov 2021 8:50 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10669
It’s not much fun getting deep into the headlight switch. I can’t remember the details.
Though getting the cover off is easy.
It’s loosely based on an upside down Ford Focus/mondao design
I cut the two plastic bars off the rear of the large knob, this allows you to turn the knob to the left one extra position. (If you push in as well, to prevent inadvertent selection). This gives a parking light position like a Ford.
I simply added a wire between the rear P terminal and the 30 terminal on the cars connector.
Job done.
The cars cjb software was already programmed for the Job.
The dash lights are off and you only get one ding when you open the door.
Refitting the knob is a pain, so don’t do that mod.
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