Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10639
Make your own mark with the pins in. With a different colour. Just for interest. Just in case you need to go back
Yeah I think they did it without locking tool.
That’s the only reason ppl put paint marks on
Remove the belt. Believe the locking tool.
Once finished. As ever crank it over a few times by hand to ensure nothing clashes.
31st Jul 2020 7:05 pm
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 769
Nice to see someone having a go at a rebuild rather than a "new lump"
going back to your pic of the bits found in your oil in the plastic container.....
Those look like big bits, and i doubt they are from the shells / bearings.
Have you had the filter out and did you pull the element apart to check for fillings in there ??
Will be very interested in seeing pics of the shells / crank when you get that out
Good luck
31st Jul 2020 7:44 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4998
wallworkf1 wrote:
So - before I start stripping it down any further (and while I build up the motivation to crack on with it in between work) - I thought I would just try my timing pin set.
I bought a cheap set of eBay - and of course the flexiplate/flywheel locking one doesn't quite fit in the access hole.
What do others think? - does that look wrong to you? would there be any reason for it to be like this? To me it looks roughly 1 tooth out on the belt/crank front pulley?
BTW if i line up the two of the larger paint marks on the pully together - things still don't line up!
Well no, it doesn't look right. The crank is the primary arbiter in setting the timing so as said already go with the tool so long as it fits correctly and is tight when you secure it with a bolt. Then set up the cams to comply with that setting.
If it's of any help the tool measurements are 35 mm, 20 mm and 10 mm for the pin, you can put a gauge on it and compare.
The cam tools are 6 mm.
Spin it over plenty of times to satisfy yourself all is well, (easier with injector or glow plugs out)
If you're not confident in that tool don't use it, as this engine will require huge torque to re-tighten the crank pulley! 100 Nm and then 90 deg yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
31st Jul 2020 8:35 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
Pete K wrote:
Yeah I think they did it without locking tool.
That’s the only reason ppl put paint marks on
Remove the belt. Believe the locking tool.
That makes sense - even then it doesn't look like they've stuck to their marks
31st Jul 2020 11:24 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
jenseneverest wrote:
Nice to see someone having a go at a rebuild rather than a "new lump"
going back to your pic of the bits found in your oil in the plastic container.....
Those look like big bits, and i doubt they are from the shells / bearings.
Have you had the filter out and did you pull the element apart to check for fillings in there ??
Will be very interested in seeing pics of the shells / crank when you get that out
Good luck
Surprisingly there was nothing in the filter - I was expecting more too given what I found in the sump! non of it was magnetic either.
I should have a good look at the bearings and crank soon! will get some pictures up.
31st Jul 2020 11:29 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
PROFSR G wrote:
Well no, it doesn't look right. The crank is the primary arbiter in setting the timing so as said already go with the tool so long as it fits correctly and is tight when you secure it with a bolt. Then set up the cams to comply with that setting.
If it's of any help the tool measurements are 35 mm, 20 mm and 10 mm for the pin, you can put a gauge on it and compare.
The cam tools are 6 mm.
Spin it over plenty of times to satisfy yourself all is well, (easier with injector or glow plugs out)
If you're not confident in that tool don't use it, as this engine will require huge torque to re-tighten the crank pulley! 100 Nm and then 90 deg
Glad its not just me then and I'm thinking straight enough! Thanks I'll check the timing tool, I think its just the outer diameter that's a fraction too big.
I did indeed take the glow plugs out to make it easier, but I don't know how the one nearest the HPFP comes out fully - its a bit tight to get past?! I also had to wait for the only tool not in my (extensive!) toolbox to arrive before taking them out! a deep 8mm socket!
31st Jul 2020 11:44 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4998
If you have 5 out without a shear you've done well, very well!
As for the one obstructed by the HPFP, guess what you next need to remove to get that one out?
You're gonna love the answer yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
1st Aug 2020 12:49 am
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
Yea, I thought that might be the answer!
It's loose in the hole, it can just stay there until I get to the stage where I probably have to remove the HPFP!
I did put some WD40 on them while I was waiting for my 8mm to arrive!
1st Aug 2020 1:13 am
SPT
Member Since: 21 Mar 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 26
Fantastic read so far! Will be following along with interest 👍
1st Aug 2020 6:18 am
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 14286
Thats pretty impressive. New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
1st Aug 2020 8:17 am
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
I'll put some pictures up later, but in short it's spun a main bearing. Of course I checked all the big end bearings first before moving on to the mains, and the first main I checked (Stamped No 2) was spun (and turning with the crank) All others are fine.
I'm going to go and have a curry and some beer....
1st Aug 2020 4:57 pm
G3Z
Member Since: 16 Dec 2018
Location: South Wales
Posts: 553
This is what put me off selling my D3 for a low mileage one.
I’m hoping the bearing Gods are with me - approaching 200k and fingers crossed, it’s as smooth as butter.
I’ve learned that mileage means nothing on these and to never get excited over finding one with super low mileage.Defender 110 2.4 TDCi Utility Station Wagon.
2007 Disco 3 GS TDV6 Manual
200,000+ mile club 😎
1st Aug 2020 5:37 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4998
In my own experience (and this may well differ from others) the oil pumps loose pressure over time causing starvation and ultimately premature wear. The TDV6 oil pumps produce hideously low pressure for an engine that requires so much pressurised oil to feed it's many passages /galleries, and moving components.
If a new pump has been fitted early enough in it's life, and oil change quality/intervals have been observed, there is a very good chance this type of failure will not happen. Of course the previous service history of a used D3 (or any car) can be vague. Even when it is comprehensive a bad decision/choice in that history can have dire consequences later on.
An oil pressure test at service time (hot) can help to mitigate against such failures by spotting a problem early, but alas, it's not a guarantee.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
1st Aug 2020 7:04 pm
wallworkf1
Member Since: 01 Jul 2020
Location: South Staffs
Posts: 69
The offending bearing
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Crank
Cap
Click image to enlarge
I've not taken the crank out yet. Just need to think about my options!
More beer required...
1st Aug 2020 10:05 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
I had the same issue..
Because i did remove the engine with body off, and had to hire lift time, i bought a JAG engine and converted it.. (i have a topic about what i did exactly)
The engine with damage is in my workshop for a rebuild... next winter...
I found that there are rather a lot Of engines around, with broken belts... in most cases the crankshafts and crankcases are still ok...
I bought such an engine (small- block incl LR sump) for 250 quid..
Since The main bearings are mounted under certain tension, to keep them in place ( do not spin) you need another crankcase anyway.. since the tension in yours due to the spin damage is gone forever...
So if you can find such a small block cheap... it is just new bearings, seals, gaskets and time... if time is your own... it can be a rather inexpensive rebuild..Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
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