Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2811
Rear brake backing plates
So it’s nearly MOT time for the faithful D3, and this year I know it’s going to fail.
When I replaced the Parking brake module a few weeks ago I noticed that the nearside rear dust shield was corroded right through in places, and underneath the calliper has a hole about the size of a 50P.
Now I understand that at the front you don’t actually need these things for an MOT, but if they are fitted they can’t be too corroded and have any holes in them.
Is this correct????
For the front it’s OK to just take them off, but at the back of course the handbrake cables pass through and are anchored by the thicker bit in the middle, and the shoes mount to them.
In the case of my D3 the front half and middle is solid as it should be, just the back thin bit is corroded.
As I see it I have a couple of options:
The correct way.
Replacing them isn’t too expensive, but actually loads of work because the bearings/hubs etc need to be pressed out.
Is this true?????
I don’t have a big enough press at home so would need to take a day off work and make sure I could run the assemblies to somebody when I had them off to push the old bearings out and new ones in.
It would of course be an opportunity to replace the bearings as they’ve done 186K miles.
The Unorthodox way, and claim they fill up with mud off-roading:
Trim the dust shields off leaving the thicker centre bits in place to anchor the parking brake cables and for the parking brake shoes to mount to.
I know this feels, actually is, a bit of a bodge, but could be a quick fix for the MOT that I could do on a Saturday or Sunday.
What does the collective experience think?
Don’t berate me too much for considering it.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
18th Sep 2016 4:40 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Nasher, these are questions I back even been pondering as well. I have done 170k miles and after 11 years they are not great. My plan was to wait until bearings need replacing but not sure plates will last. Interested in the replies.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
18th Sep 2016 5:13 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Cut them off cant see it hurting, dead common fix on the live axle land rovers.
18th Sep 2016 6:09 pm
J428 TGS
Member Since: 13 Nov 2015
Location: Shetland
Posts: 100
cut dem aff CAREFULLY,to get da MOT done, as du kens da brake shoes mount on dare,
dan order new wans i got the new wans shot blasted and zinc sprayed before top coat,
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic140809.html
18th Sep 2016 10:18 pm
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
Nasher
I don't think that back plates corroded in the way you describe would be an MOT fail, more likely to be an advisory item. As you say option 1 is the right long term solution but having done mine about a year ago I can confirm that it is not a 5 minute job, I have listed some areas where I ran into delays that a bit of forward planning may help you minimise the time that your car is off the road.
1) The knurled plastic nuts that hold the hand brake cable outer sheath to the back plate were badly seized to the threads on the back plate, lots of WD40 and gentle working backwards and forwards with a small set of pipe grips freed these off.
2) The spring around the hand brake cable and the pins and clips that hold the hand brake shoes to the back plate were in pretty poor condition and unless yours have been replaced recently it would be worth having new ones at hand.
3) The rear suspension upright has to be removed from the car to get the hub into a press, the top bolts on both sides on mine were seized and had to be cut off which then meant replacing the bushes in the upright, new bolts to rebuild it and then a 4 wheel alignment after it all went back together.
4) One driveshaft splined end was seized in the stub axle and needed the help of a three leg puller to push it out.
5) Last one, when pressing the stub axle out of the wheel bearing the bearing collapsed leaving the inner bearing race on the stub axle. This required a set of mechanical bearing separators, the type with 2 halves that clamp behind the item to be pulled not 2 or 3 leg gear pullers, to remove the inner race.
My car had 160,000 and 8 years on it and I don't think any of these components had ever been disturbed before, yours may have had more attention in these areas so may not incur the same issues - good luck -
1997 Defender 90 for the kids and I to have a go at some competitive off road RTV and Tyro trials, daughter picked up her first trophy over the August Bank Holiday.
Previous Land Rover history
1996 P38 4.6 V8 Autobiography
1996 Discovery TDi 300
1972 Range Rover 3.5 V8
LWB Hard Top Series 3
LWB Truck Cab Series 2A
Not been without a Land Rover for over 40 years - I must need therapy!
18th Sep 2016 11:46 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20837
What he said ^
I have a pair of plates to go on when I get around to replacing a noisy bearing My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Mmh? I think I need to rethink whether I will do mine myself!2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
19th Sep 2016 6:55 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2811
Thanks guys
I can confirm that it is an MOT fail these days, the internet is also full of stories of various cars failing.
I've very recently rebuilt and replaced the entire parking brake system, so I know that will come off easily, plus in the last two weeks I've replaced the bushes at the top of the uprights to the top arm, so they are a quick unbolt job too.
As for the rest of it, I'd expect trouble with the lower arm to hub bush and getting the driveshaft out of the hub.
Both rear wheel bearings feel OK at the moment, but knowing my luck Ill cut the dust shields off for the MOT and then fail on a wheel bearing.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
19th Sep 2016 7:01 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20837
I have never had a car fail on a rusty/holed/missing dust shield, unless it has been fouling the disc, or insecure. My own car includedMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2811
Thanks CEZ1869, I thought mine were in a bad state, but yours were far worse.
I’m convinced the corrosion on mine is due to me using the car to launch a boat into seawater a lot.
Obviously it depends on how steep the slip is, but I try not to get more than the rear tyres wet, if at all.
I spray underneath the car afterwards when washing the boat down, but that doesn’t get inside the shields just the outsides.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
19th Sep 2016 10:33 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Well, based upon Nasher's back plate, I reckon I can get another 100k miles from mine! Here was the state about a year back when I upgraded to V8 brakes all round. The back plate does have a few holes that can't be seen in the photo. The blue colour is the Dinitrol rust converter I used as part of protecting them.
Click image to enlarge
2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
19th Sep 2016 10:43 am
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2912
Looks like CEZ1869 has been launching submarines not boats Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
19th Sep 2016 10:43 am
CEZ1869
Member Since: 11 Apr 2015
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 322
I wouldn't have known if it wasn't for my EPB squealing, luckily I only had to have the discs & shoes replaced
Current: D3 2005 HSE
Previous: D2 2001 TD5
D2 4.0 V8
1998 P38 Rangie
19th Sep 2016 11:00 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2811
It was whilst rebuilding my EPB that I noticed mine had got as bad as they are.
I'm certain they weren't that bad when I'd changed the pads or adjusted the EPB last.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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