Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Alan
When all the ecu,s are awake on the car your taking quite a bit of power from the battery your nanacom is also drawing power and if your doing work on the car without a battery charger attached your more then likely cause your self problems
21st Dec 2013 6:11 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
oh yes, obviously you can destroy your ecu if you do not connect a power supply to your battery!?
i thought it is not necessary as i already flashed the instr. ecu successfully.
but unfortunately i have now an ecu with an identification error!!!
21st Dec 2013 6:12 pm
kestrelpc
Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 114
I have been reading all these horror stories about making sure you have a power supply when flashing ECU's which I can fully understand. I am looking at getting a cheap supply just for when flashing my D3. I already have a Ctek 5A, which is fine for charging the battery but I understand not man enough for ecu work. I have found the folowing item on the bay of E and was wondering if this would work as a supply for the car when flashing (its 'rated' at 12V 25A)?
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Warning
Can I just say to anybody that's going to do any ecu flashing that it's voltage critical your D3/4 will draw the life out of a battery in 15 mins so please put a power supply on
21st Dec 2013 6:18 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
is interesting to hear, but is coming a little bit tooo late for my eas-ecu!!
can i still use the car with a dead eas-ecu?
21st Dec 2013 6:25 pm
cold_n_wet
Member Since: 05 May 2009
Location: Bergen
Posts: 1509
try a hard reset and see what happens, you may get lucky, and try flashing again, with extra power
I use a ctek 2500 when working on canbus vehicles I think ctek have replaced it with a new model, but totally agree with Geoff.IDTOOL PRO / Faultmate programing and BAS remaping services in Norway.
Diagnostic for most Land rover vehicles
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Stockist of RLD equipment.
www.praesto4x4.no
D4 gone, missed but replaced with a 110 Puma.
21st Dec 2013 6:41 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
how does the "hard reset" work?? i was flashing my td5 with ctek and it worked fine!
21st Dec 2013 6:43 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
But I would think your prabarly past that stage but worth a try
21st Dec 2013 6:45 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
okay, i will try tomorrow and hope that i am lucky!!!
if the ecu is distroyed and i get an used one, how do i tell the ecu the VIN from my car!?
or is this not necessary?! just plug and everything is fine?!
by the way, how do i get access to the ecu with a LH driven car?
Just fit the ecu and you will be fine you might have to recalibrate the height settings .. did you save the heights from the height sensors..
The ecu should be halfway up the drivers door pillar you will need to remove the kick panel and lower pedal cover and stick your arm up.. you can then feel it up there, one 10mm headed bolt holds the ecu in place and it sits on two pegs, It has four connectors on it that have a tab you press in to remove the plugs... a bit fiddly.
Flack
21st Dec 2013 7:02 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Is there a voltage detection feature on the nanocom like on SDD and IID Tool?
Please use a high amperage power source. 10 Amps is ok for small updates with a fully charged battery; 25 Amps is good for most reprogramming and LR recommend 50 Amps to cater for very poor batteries. Jump leads to the wife's car is another option.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
Flack wrote:
...you might have to recalibrate the height settings .. did you save the heights from the height sensors..
no, as i did not expect to the ecu!!
21st Dec 2013 7:09 pm
chadders
Member Since: 07 Mar 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 40
Anybody used the "Towing Socket Charger Adapter" advertised in the shop? Or is it best just to clip directly to the battery?
I have seen an extension lead also on Amazon, might be useful if you need to charge over night.
Which CTEK do people recommend to go with my Nanocom?
21st Dec 2013 7:13 pm
MarkOne
Member Since: 23 Jul 2011
Location: County Antrim
Posts: 3345
Thought the nanocom would sense the voltage being to low and just not operate, and if not why not?
21st Dec 2013 7:14 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
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the ecu!! 
