The link below is to my Gallery section related primarily to hooking up the hitch electrical for NAS spec LR3's but I do show a bit of hitch related material. In particular the Curt fixed model with instructions that just bolts on, but also the different styles of removable hitch.
From what I understand, there have been a couple of variations to the original longer one; the changes seemed to be key related, red/orange key being the "good" ones now. I assumed it had something to do with the locking pin that slides up and locks, (or not), into whatever that holds the big part. As has been said in previous posts, that as long as the pin has locked up into the bumper, all will be good.
Probably if you use the trailer hitch all the time, and clearance does not matter, then the fixed one is better as it is cheaper and once on, it is there. For the occasional user, removable looks better when not there, and clearance of course is better when removed.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=44972005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
11th May 2011 5:51 pm
dasdais
Member Since: 03 May 2010
Location: sussex
Posts: 73
Just fitted body styling kit so had to removed Fixed multi height for a detachable. Tow a wessex box with 2 16.2 horses on board if any thing I think my car tows better now??
11th May 2011 7:52 pm
Mark B
Member Since: 06 Jan 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 24
Mark B wrote:
We had no problems towing our horse trailer with the detachable bar.
However, we did find that it didn't sit at quite the right height and it did affect stability slightly. Have now changed to a fixed bar and it feels very stable now.
Ours is an Ifor Williams. From what I've read in other threads, other Ifor Williams users have noticed an improvement when towing with the fixed multi-height as opposed to the detachable bar.
11th May 2011 11:02 pm
domlandy1
Member Since: 21 Feb 2011
Location: lake vyrnwy
Posts: 253
Well I've been towing with my detachable today(14ft ifor with sides with rather alot of weight on ) and noticed that I've got slop in mine mmm
12th May 2011 8:52 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
domlandy1 wrote:
Well I've been towing with my detachable today(14ft ifor with sides with rather alot of weight on ) and noticed that I've got slop in mine mmm
You need a little bit of movement )slop) otherwise you would never get it out if there was a perfect 'friction' fit. This is accentuated by the distance of the tow ball from the socket and makes it feel worse than it is.
13th May 2011 10:21 am
Andrew Hebron
Member Since: 16 Jan 2009
Location: Teddington
Posts: 501
Regularly tow a car / car trailer on a removable tow bar w/o probs.Andrew
13th May 2011 5:39 pm
disco rob
Member Since: 04 Jul 2010
Location: Sussex
Posts: 62
Does anything work as its supposed to on these D3's, roll on SeptemberVW Touareg 3.0 Altitude
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14th May 2011 1:10 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
yep, everything works as its supposed to on mine
Roll on July 2014 when I have paid for the D4 and can buy a D?Duncan
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14th May 2011 1:43 pm
discostum
Member Since: 03 Feb 2008
Location: cheshire
Posts: 3
towbar loose but seized.
Came to tow a trailer today, as I do regularly. The detachable towbar was very loose in the socket. Unlocked with the key and pulled handle out, but unable to turn to release hitch. Have tried everythin, even destroying the locking mechanism, and removing the shaft all together. Inner mechanism is still stuck solid after copious ammounts of penetrating oil applied, yet towbar is still very loose. Any ideas on how to remove?
I just posted the jpg as it shows the pin sticking out and that is your problem.
I looked at my hitch receiver to see if one could by removing the spare tyre, get access to the rear of the pin and perhaps beable to pound it back. It does not seem possible - there is no hole in the front side of the receiver on my 2005 LR3 that lines up with the pin such that one could pound back. That is probably also the case with yours but you could look.
Other than that idea, about all I can think of is more penetrating oil and time. Maybe a sort of screwdriver with a hook on the end could be inserted into where the key was, (you said that is gone now), and with luck, drag the pin back as that is what turning the key thing is supposed to do. Failing that, heat and pounding.
Click image to enlarge
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
19th Jun 2011 10:50 pm
fast1cars
Member Since: 27 Dec 2013
Location: bury st edmunds
Posts: 72
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Ill be honest, I have seen it a few times now... For whatever reason, the towbar moves very slightly inside the hole it fits in, and over time wears away the towbar itself and the hole...
If you are doing a lot of 'heavy' towing, then personally, I would have a multi-height bar, as the extra bracing bars prevent any movement at all...
hi I am in the process of fitting the heavy duty version but I cant get the bolts out of the chassis were the bracing fits-any ideas.
cheers
johncheers John
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