DeadmanWNC
Member Since: 07 Sep 2010
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 50
  
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| Permanent 12v to cigar lighters? |
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Hi, we bought one of those 12V coolboxes for use in the caravan and Disco, need somewhere to keep the beer cool!!!
However, the problem is all the 12V sockets in the Disco3 power off when the ignition is turned off! So the beer gets hot if the car is not running.
Anybody got any good ideas (simple) how to convert the rear 12V to a permanent live. The coolbox has got a sensor in it that will switch its self off, if it detects low voltage, thus saving the car battery.
As always
thanks in advance....
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 4th Apr 2011 9:45 pm |
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Ent
Member Since: 12 Oct 2007
Location: In the cack
Posts: 6488
  
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There is a permant live behind the rear 12v socket, it's for the towing electrics. You can pick that up and wire it in, can't remember the colour of the wire at the moment but if you do a search for it I'm sure it will come up as it's been asked a few times. Club Exped trailer
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| 4th Apr 2011 9:54 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26770
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For a proper solution, you could fit a second battery into the spare battery box on the right hand side of the engine bay. This can be connected to the main battery with a split charge relay, or a even a Traxide system which will charge it when the engine is running, but disconnect it from the main battery when stopped. You could wire in additional power sockets that are connect (via a fuse) to the auxilliary battery.
This is great because you can leave the coolbox running for extended periods with the engine off. The problem with coolboxes is that they draw quite a lot of current, and the voltage cut off on mine is far to conservative.
Or, you could just run a separate wire from the main battery to the existing 12v socket in the boot, with a fuse incorporated, earth the other connection, and disconnect and tape up the vehicles own connections.
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| 4th Apr 2011 9:55 pm |
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DeadmanWNC
Member Since: 07 Sep 2010
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 50
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WOW!!!! You guys never cease to amaze me.
I posted this and haven't even had time to open a cool beer from the fridge (is there a theme going on here, or am I an alcoholic!) and I have 3 answers already!
Thanks a bunch
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| 4th Apr 2011 10:07 pm |
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RSAChris
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 154
 
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wiggs wrote:If you want just the rear one live ... Just power it from the tow bar electrics in the cubby hole just below the aux plug
Or you can make all 3 live ( not the ciggy lighter )
Remove this relay from fuse box
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...0relay.jpg
Put in a link wire ..like this
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...%20002.jpg
I have done this now too 
It also caused the lock/unlock beeps to stop working...  and this was something I tried to do for a very long time - it is a pain when you are at a camp site at night trying to unlock the car without causing the anoying beeps  Proud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns
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| 10th May 2011 2:11 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
 
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| Key in Ignition chime also? |
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RSAChris wrote:It also caused the lock/unlock beeps to stop working... and this was something I tried to do for a very long time - it is a pain when you are at a camp site at night trying to unlock the car without causing the annoying beeps
It would be too good to hear that the procedure also got rid of the Key in Ignition chime? That would be too good to be true. I think it is near impossible to get rid of that noise. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 11th May 2011 5:12 pm |
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RSAChris
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 154
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No, the key-in-ignition-dong is still there, just the remote control lock/unlock beeps is no more...  Proud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns
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| 12th May 2011 6:00 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Maybe keep the F40P fuse powered off the radio circuit? |
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RSAChris wrote:No, the key-in-ignition-dong is still there, just the remote control lock/unlock beeps is no more...
A week ago, I removed the 5 amp fuse F40P in an attempt to shut up the key bong and I succeeded but then the parking brake warning red light went on and stayed on. If even one wished to ignore the red light, I assumed it was bad, and put the fuse back in.
I am now wondering if instead, what would happen if I powered the F40P from an ignition powered accessory circuit such as the radio? Part of me thinks that the key in signal is effectively the power to accessories "permission" that tells the accessories that they can remain on; hence my idea is "circular", and would not work.
The pdf below shows the key in ignition circuit.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use..._p_222.pdf 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 12th May 2011 2:49 pm |
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McAnally
Member Since: 14 May 2011
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 2
 
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wiggs wrote:If you want just the rear one live ... Just power it from the tow bar electrics in the cubby hole just below the aux plug
Or you can make all 3 live ( not the ciggy lighter )
Remove this relay from fuse box
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...0relay.jpg
Put in a link wire ..like this
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...%20002.jpg
Ok this may be a stupid question but where can you purchase a like wire like the one pictured and are the any specs to keep an eye out for regarding the wire? I still have much to learn.
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| 19th May 2011 11:11 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| 14 gauge multi strand automotive electrical wire |
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You can purchase suitable electrical wire from NAPA or a similar type automotive parts store.
I have posted a link below to NAPA USA that brings up a page for 14 gauge multi strand copper electrical wire that is flexible and insulated. You will also need what are called Spade connectors to tie into the where the relay pins were. The size of the spade should be the same of slightly smaller than the relay pins. These are spade connectors are flat metal things that crimp onto an exposed end of the electrical wire.
The gauge number of the wire is the thickness of the conductor. Bigger numbers mean smaller more thin wire. 22 gauge wire is thinner than 14 gauge. In reality, 16 gauge would probably be OK but I think that 14 gauge is better as it will not flop about.
The colour of the insulations does not really matter but I prefer red or orange for positive or what is called the hot wire, and black for negative or the ground wire. In this case, you are jumping the positive so use red or orange. In household wiring, black is generally the hot and white, what is called the neutral. I will say that in older automotive, black is common as the hot as well, and also the ground so there are no real rules.
You do not want solid wire as is used for house wiring. Solid conductors work for household AC power but not automotive DC electricity.
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result....=3&N=0 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 20th May 2011 4:39 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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To follow on with this subject, the link below has a picture of the set up in place.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/128006...-d4-4.html
Also for the benefit of those using metric cable, you need 6mm2 cable for the link and Yellow 6mm spade terminals. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 22nd May 2011 1:57 pm |
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BLFarrar
Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222
 
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As I was looking at a set of PV solar panels (In Maplins) as an idea to top my battery up when car praked for long periods they have some 60w ones for £25...I wonder if these work?
Is 60w a a viable amount to counteract what may be going out ?
The size of that panel is like a small tea tray...almost A3 size
The script on the box says it has internal electrics to prevent battery drain drain (a diode I suspect) BREXIT - done properly.
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| 22nd May 2011 2:45 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi BLFarrar, as a rule of thumb, use 10 watts of solar panel for every 100 Ah of battery capacity and then you will not need a solar regulator.
Any bigger and you will need a solar regulator or you will over charge the battery(s).
BTW, that sounds like a 6w not a 60w, for £25 but I could be wrong, there are some cheap Asian solar panels around. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 22nd May 2011 3:29 pm |
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Aughtondisco
Member Since: 16 Jul 2015
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 6
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Hi there - just got my '07 Disco 3 loving it, and loving this site too.
This 12v post is very useful and quite simple so thank you - the relay was quite tight mind, but having got it out and putting in the link it works a treat and I can now power my MP3 player direct from it.
My one question is - is there anything that this mod stops working? For example I saw the comments about the lock/unlock beeps and I've noticed that the radio now comes on without the key in the ignition - mind you it might have done before?
Also I noticed Wiggs comment about "not the ciggy lighter" - I'm assuming that's the one closest to the drivers seat as that one isn't permanently live but the rest are?
Kind regards
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| 16th Jul 2015 3:49 pm |
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