When my D3 was at the dealer, I noticed that the lids of the two big black boxes in the engine compartment (one contains the battery, the other the alarm sounder/tilt sensor amongst others) do not close properly. When I asked about it the mechanic told me that it did not matter at all.
Are those lids there only for cosmetic reasons, or are they supposed to keep water and dust from the components contained?
This weekend I will be taking my D3 off-road for the first time on an off-road course (looking forward to that ), so I want to be sure that I do not get water and dirt/dust in the wrong places...
Any other tips/hints before I take it off-road? 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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7th Sep 2006 10:18 am
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
I've never seen one that does close properly...
aside from a bit of dust, i've never had any ingress into the boxes - believe me, i've had a good try at getting stuff in there
WRT driving offroad, let the electronics do the work, if you lose traction, tell it you want to move by giving it a little more throttle, this provokes the TC into action, you might also want to turn off the DSC....
Depending where you're going, you might want to give it a good coat of wax to protect the paintwork from scratches
I will try to take some pictures, and will let you know how it went... 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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7th Sep 2006 10:28 am
lookatmema
Member Since: 24 Aug 2006
Location: Fife - it's a Kingdom doncha know
Posts: 47
Eagle eyes there then
Mine is the same - alarm box and battery box both poor fit. I managed to fix the alarm box with a bit of fiddling, but the battery cover is simply the wrong fit. I think the battery retaining strip is the problem, but how important it is likely to be when off road I can't say.
If you're really worried, a length of duck tape is the answer to cure it temporarily. At least it's cheap and simple to do each time you venture off road
Yes I know, why should you need to use some tape. The answer is of course you shouldn't have to, but the alternative is to get into lengthy comms with LR for a fix. If you wait for it to go wrong - it's bound to oblige
7th Sep 2006 10:42 am
LRtuning
Member Since: 22 Feb 2005
Location: AUSTRALIA + UK
Posts: 468
The covers have never fitted completely!
Have you ever noticed the black insulating tape over your fuse box to keep it closed? Go on, have a look and you'll be amazed :-0)
7th Sep 2006 11:39 am
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
My alarm box (same size as battery on other side? big space in it) is also cr*p - I have attempted to make the lid fit better but resisted trying too hard when I saw that one of the front clips would completely be blocked by something (can't recall what while I'm 200miles from my D3) in front and would therefore be damn near impossible to get open again Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
Mine have never fitted properly, but like 10, I've never had any dirt get inside so they must do something good!Have a nice day!
2010 Cayenne Diesel with PASM & Off Road Pkg
2005 HSE D3 (Sold)
7th Sep 2006 12:07 pm
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
been out to check mine (was just poking around really) and I took them of and they snapped back into place easily, didn't see any black tape either
7th Sep 2006 6:05 pm
caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
mine fits properly but you have to be careful refitting to align the catches. I would think it is important forr them to be sealed from water and dust. mechanic was just fobbing you off. If you never go off road I don't think it would matter.“There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
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Once you fit aftermarket driving lights, winch, UHF aerial they will never close properly again.
My fuse box had tape over it to hold the lid on until the dealer had to get into it to fix an electrical fault.
Chris2011 Discovery 4 (MY12) SDV6 HSE with General Grabber AT's, Traxide Aux Battery system, custom rear drawers and Autosafe half height cargo barrier
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8th Sep 2006 12:16 am
nwoods
Member Since: 04 Apr 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 563
Mine fit (no aftermarket stuff quite yet), but they are a PIA to get back on, which occurs regularly as my air compressor for airing up my tires (when finished off roading), gets power from the battery terminals.
WRT driving offroad, let the electronics do the work, if you lose traction, tell it you want to move by giving it a little more throttle, this provokes the TC into action, you might also want to turn off the DSC....
Thanks TFC, I'll remember that. My D3 has automatic transmission, do I need to drive it in CommandShift mode in most off-road situations, or can the automatic mode cope too..?
Can anyone point me to some info about D3-specific things for off-roading? I.e. how to use all these nifty programs and electronics in the best way (and when to switch them off), like what TFC wrote above.
I did some searching in the forum, but could not find much. Maybe this would make a useful thread in Tips & Tricks?
Or should I take a Land Rover Experience course in a D3? The LRE is quite expensive compared to the 'generic' 4x4 courses, could I expect more value for the price?
10forcash wrote:
most importantly, have fun!! 8)
Thanks, I think I will! I am really looking forward to make the D3 do some real stuff. But I expect to take it relatively easy, because I am really new to this and the car is not even two weeks old... 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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8th Sep 2006 8:11 am
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Beaker, the LRE course would be more useful as it is vehicle specific, the auto box should be fine in auto, although some prefer using command shift - it's your choice, try both and see what suits. Just dial in the terrain response that most closely matches the enviroment you are driving in
Speed should be 'as slow as possible but as fast as necassary' just remember that the vehicle can detect forwards and backwards motion (or lack of it) but knows nothing of sideways motion - i.e. it can do nothing to help you if you're sliding sideways down a slope Talking of slopes, always drive up or down them as straight - on as possible, a wheel dropping into a depression whilst traversing a slope at an angle is likely to induce a roll
If you are on a side slope, keep you C of G as low as possible by dropping the suspension if there is enough clearance, never turn your wheels up a sideslope, only down... if you are sliding towards the bottom of the slope, don't fight it
Watch your entry, exit and breakover angles and if you can't see the ground you'll be driving over (such as in long grass or over the crest of a hill) walk it first to save any embarrassment later
If you are going any distance from civilisation, it is also a good idea to have a second vehicle with you, as well as a recovery rope or strap (not a kinetic one though) and a pair of shackles
8th Sep 2006 9:05 am
nwoods
Member Since: 04 Apr 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 563
- Slow as Possible, Fast as Neccessary
- Always follow the rear wheels (this makes more sense if you are sliding down a hill and the rear end is catching up to you)
- Turn off DSC!
- When in rocky areas, go very slow, don't compress your suspension unncessarily
- being on 3 or even 2 wheels is fine, it likes it
- 40 degree angles are STEEP, but your truck likes it, though you won't.
- These are very difficult to roll.
- Maintain momentum (mud, sand, hill climb)
- Always understand where your tourque band is, and have more power available when you need it
- Remember to shift! Use Command Shift, but remember to shift!
- Your engine sputtering is fine, it's just the rev limiter doing it's job, shift you fool!
- Take care of your tires!
- Have recovery gear available and handy in areas where you will need it
Thanks guys, I will try to remember all this at the right moments. As this is an introductory course I don't expect very difficult situations like steep traverses etc. There will be instructors and recovery vehicles so, I guess the worst that may happen will be to embarrass myself or the D3...
But I look forward to getting to know the vehicle better and do some fun stuff with it 2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
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), so I want to be sure that I do not get water and dirt/dust in the wrong places...
2006 Zermatt Silver TDV6 'SE' Auto, Mantec sump guard, Frontrunner roofrack, Lightforce 140s, split charge system and... a Jetboil.
8)
