Member Since: 02 Dec 2016
Location: blackpool
Posts: 408
Bought a 58 D3 in December, from a garage, who arranged for the timing belts to be changed, however the I wasnt aware of the oil pump issue so the pump has not been changed.
the vin is 9A is this an affected year,
Thanks in advance
I've just had this oil pump cover plate failure on my 07 plate. I've bloody work hard to finally be able to afford this car I've always wanted and only 5 months later the tensioner pully snaps off at the cover plate. Fortunately the car wasn't moving when this happened. I had a flat battery and the dump recovery guy proceeded to use easy start spray instead of just charging the battery. (I didn't know this was going to do the damage it did, twisted him!) when he did this the engine back fired, snapping off the pully. 4 months it took for insurance experts to assess the car. It seems there cracks in oil pump cover plates already existed. Can any please advise if they think there could be more internal damage. I'm hoping that because the engine never kicked in and because it was stationary when the tensioner snapped off that the pistons/internal is OK?? Any information on what could be damaged and what parts I need would be gratefully appreciated.
PS I will be trying my luck calling landrover about what seems to be a very common faulty part on this model.
If it only back fired and never ran up then you might be lucky and get away with just a oil pump casing, the only way to find out is to replace the oil pump and belts and see if the engine rotates by hand freely, if so then try to start it and see if its ok.
Or do a complete strip down heads and sump off and check for damage..
Thanks so so much Flack for the quick reply. Fingers crossed. Hoping to get the part number from LR soon. It seems there's been a few upgraded casings. I assume the latest is the best and most expensive. Any idea what I should expect to pay for new casing and belt? Thanks again. Dying to have her back.
1st Mar 2017 9:42 pm
johnlad
Member Since: 02 Dec 2016
Location: blackpool
Posts: 408
Flack wrote:
@johnlad
The only sure way to tell is to strip it down and check the casing, some early MY9's have the old type casing fitted..
Flack
so if I remove the belt cover I should be able to tell from the oil pump casing without having to strip any further?
Then again if I get that far it maybe worth changing pump anyway.
Are the pattern parts ok or does it have to be genuine
1st Mar 2017 9:52 pm
jetmech
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 271
I bought a genuine Ford part from Citroen when I did ours. It's the OEM part but cheaper. Simon.
2008MY Dicovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual
1st Mar 2017 10:27 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Black Beauty - for the engine to backfire the engine must have been turning - when the oil pump housing fails, the engine does not fail because because of lack of lubrication but the valves crashing into the top of the pistons because the cam belt has loosened because the tensioner on the oil pump housing has come adrift.
If the engine had been running then yes the valves would have defiinitly hit the pistons and rebuild or a new engine required. - no discussion.
However in your case - you do not know - so a risk assessment is needed.
Due to the problem of taking the injectors out I dont think an internal inspection of the combustion chambers can be done so you need to rely on whether the engine turns over OK but this may not show up show up a slightly bent valve etc. If the engine does turn over OK then a valve could snap off later - a risk. You can only test this now by taking the heads off - an expensive exercise if there is no problem.
So if the worst happened you will up for a new engine, if it turns over OK and there is no damage with a new oil pump you are fine and off you go - if there is some damage that does not show up now and comes up later then maybe a new engine - so the same as your current worst case.
So if it was me, I would consider I have nothing to loose - see if the engine turns over Ok with a new oil pump etc and if it does then drive. If it fails later then well you were up for a new engine anyway.
Alternatively you can pay to have the heads removed to inspect the heads, piston tops and valves to be sure.
Sorry I cannot be more positive - there are risks and costs associated with all options.
Hi again Flack, sorry to bother you. You mentioned that I'd have to change the 'oil pump', do you think the whole pump needs changing? My mechanic thinks just the housing/cover plate casing which snapped can be replaced. Obviously I'll change the belts and filters etc. Just really hoping it's not the whole oil pump needing changing as you said?
Cheers
2nd Mar 2017 5:25 pm
Skynet
Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: Melksham, Wiltshire
Posts: 868
@Blackbeauty
Read the earliest posts which imply that the housing is part of the oil pump itself. Dave
D3 2006 HSE, Cairns Blue - gone
D4 2016 SE, White
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
Yes - they are a complete item - the LR item is expensive there are alternatives here that are 1/3 the price but I am not sure what is available over there.
3rd Mar 2017 1:15 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
Blackbeauty.....This shows the difference between old (weak) oil pump assy, and later type, note the structural differences around the tensioner mounting, upper left area........
D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
3rd Mar 2017 1:47 am
RCMike
Member Since: 26 Feb 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 117
In another thread, i commented that i had checked my oil pump with a cheap endoscope. A member asked if i had pictures - i do and i thought this may be a good place to put them in case anyone else wants to see what they may see via an endoscope.
The endoscope i used was a cheap USB one from fleabay and had little led lights at the end so you can see in the dark, overall diameter is about 5mm.
One thing that helped me locate where to look was to study pictures on this site of the front of the engine without the cover on, then it's easy enough to know where to point the endoscope.
so, this is what you see, hope it helps if anyone else decides to have a "probe around". I also checked the left hand side of the pump as well (webbing filled in).
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
9th Mar 2017 4:21 pm
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
Thanks RCMike. That was me. Did you access from underneath or above?
9th Mar 2017 4:38 pm
RCMike
Member Since: 26 Feb 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 117
trailhound,
I went in from above (pretty much at the top) - i first removed all the little bolts holding the cover on (all way around the V which allowed the cover to move forward 10mm without bending or straining etc (enough room to get the endoscope in and move it around).
Last edited by RCMike on 10th Mar 2017 9:47 am. Edited 1 time in total
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