Member Since: 30 Aug 2008
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 31
I would like to add my thanks to Disco_Mikey and Flack for the information on this thread and also our site sponsors British Car Parts and Advanced Factors. Through them I got all my parts for a full service including filters, transfer box and diff oils, all belts and pulleys, oil pump, and V8 brake upgrade with associated seals and bolts plus more helpful advice.
Nasher made some good points about tools, especially a smaller torque wrench. This is absolutely vital as without it is incredibly easy to over tighten some bolts by hand, notably on the tensioner pulleys and oil pump housing.
A few of points from my experience;
If you are changing the oil pump you must remember to buy the crankshaft oil seal as well as it doesn’t come with the pump, Part No 1102415. They are not expensive so I advise buying two. The seal lip is very easy to damage if you just push it over the crankshaft and are not using the special seal fitting tool. I fitted mine backwards to open it out a bit first, then turned it round and gently eased it on to the crank. First one did not survive my hamfistedness and impatience
The new oil pump housing now has some internal lugs which have machined faces that this seal butts up against. This avoids the problem noted by Flack of pushing the seal in too far which can cause a leak. I used the plastic fitting spacer in reverse to drift the seal into the housing and then carefully and evenly tapped the outer edges to push it in the final fraction up to the lug faces.
If you are replacing the pump you must get a new crankshaft bolt. Be careful as there are two sizes.
Part No Size VIN range
LR002458 14mm x 70 7A000001 – 9A501901
LR013377 16mm x 70 9A501901 onwards
Moving the starter motor is awkward but I found that removing the main cable first greatly eases the operation. I won’t play with timing without everything locked down and it really doesn’t add too much time to the job. Get it wrong….
All in all a relatively straightforward job all thanks to this forum (Rear belt awaits!!).
Regards
Peter
11th Nov 2013 8:40 am
john17ro
Member Since: 16 Dec 2013
Location: Bucharest
Posts: 2
Hello! Thanks for the very useful info here. I started replacing timing belts on a friend's Disco 3, wouldn't do it without this topic. I did the front one pretty smooth, but have a very hard time with the rear one... The car is LHD and I coldn't even pull out the cover, only removed it and left behind the engine. Looking at the pictures I believe there's more room on RHD cars. Somehow I removed the belt and tensioner, hope to get the new ones in tomorrow even if this seems mission impossible
Wish me luck guys!
16th Dec 2013 5:39 pm
cardicowboy
Member Since: 22 Jan 2014
Location: Bromborough
Posts: 24
I would like to thank everyone for the information on here for a good overview of what needed to be done. I'm an engineer by trade with an interest in cars so wasn't too fearful of attempting the job. I was pleased to save £££££s though.
I would concur with Mikey about the starter motor. I set myself 2 days aside to complete the work, bearing in mind that I was going to service the car at the same time. I started work at 10am. Just after 4pm I gave up trying to get the starter motor off. I have a few issues of LRO where they too document the belts being changed, this was an added benefit to this thread. It laughably states "remove starter motor". I would like to write to them now to ask how the %^*%^$" they managed it?!?! Such swearing at an inanimate object has never been heard.
By 7pm I'd managed the back belt (again, many expletives used), my arm is scratched to hell, my stomach hurts from lying over the engine, and my neck is sore from holding my head up under the car for so long. The front belt and the auxiliary didn't take that long. Be aware of all the cover bolts though, one little one had me scratching my head for a while.
An added point from the magazine article was to tension the belt, turn the engine over by hand, lock the engine, then undo the cam sprockets and retension the belt again. This equalises the tension over the belt. Thoughts? I chose not to undo the cam sprocket bolts but did retension the belt.
As I had the car half inside the garage I couldn't leave it, so after topping up the fluids I finally turned the key at 00:45. I still had the plastic covers and underside protection to fit, but I left that until the morning.
As much as I intend keeping my car until it drops, I have no intention of doing that every again... well maybe...I've got to justify the timing pin kit I bought...
6th Feb 2014 11:57 am
evo8
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: Zalesie
Posts: 289
Guys - anyone can send me a list of parts needed for oil pump casing + front cam belt + all pulleys, tensioners, bolts, seals needed ? PM or Email - thanks a lot 2013 D4 TDV6 S; Baltic Blue; IID Tool BT
2007 D3 TDV6 SE, Auto; club Faultmate MSV2
18th Feb 2014 2:46 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20844
Member Since: 29 Jan 2008
Location: Zalesie
Posts: 289
wow - thanks a lot 2013 D4 TDV6 S; Baltic Blue; IID Tool BT
2007 D3 TDV6 SE, Auto; club Faultmate MSV2
18th Feb 2014 4:25 pm
cmyers_uk
Member Since: 10 Apr 2005
Location: Near Bristol, UK
Posts: 433
Id like to add my thanks to Disco Mikey. I have after two days at it finished the cam belt and rear belt. My car is an 07 plate and the instructions for the rear needed additional advice from flack. 25nm does seem not very much force by I've stuck to it religiously for fear of cracking the casings.
"If you look at the rear top of the engine there is a big loom that goes to each bank of injectors, this is the main loom, in the center at the back of the engine you will see a 10mm nut slacken this one off, then move left to the drivers side you will see a metal fuel pipe and a round plastic breather type housing, the other 10mm nut is located down in between these two items, this nut needs to be removed and this will then allow you to move the main harness back out of the way giving more access to the cover plate. "
I also found that to get the belt on we 1st fitted the tensioner but didn't tighten bolt , then belt over right hand wheel , then left hand , then tightened bolt and pulled the pin to set tension.
This is a photo of my cam tensioner set , as it shows its not exactly in the centre , but I'm hoping its close enough the tension on the belt seemed fine. I found every time it looked fine to the eye , by the time id tightened and photo it would be a fraction out.
23rd Feb 2014 6:20 pm
cmyers_uk
Member Since: 10 Apr 2005
Location: Near Bristol, UK
Posts: 433
Just to add the torque settings that differ from what id read or were not in the note. Appreciate most people don't torque everything but the idler at 47 was much higher than id read in the note.
Install the accessory drive belt idler.
Install the retaining bolt and tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb.ft).
16 timing belt cover retaining bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
Install the intake air shutoff throttle elbow support bracket
Install the three retaining bolts and tighten to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
cheers
Chris
28th Feb 2014 2:06 pm
calum_h
Member Since: 02 Sep 2012
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 34
Hi.
The car broke down on Monday with suspected alternator failure. Once I had a look at where the alternator was it made sense to do the timing belt at the same time.
Based on the age of the car the belts should have been done last July anyway (mileage is just over 60k). I've had the kit for ages but been spending too much time on my 88" series 3 lately!
Wanted to say a big thanks to all contributors in this thread. Excellent write ups and pictures meant I had the belts and alternator done in about 5 1/2 hours. Genuinely could not have done it without the info here - really appreciate it!
Thanks again,
Calum
28th Mar 2014 4:18 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20844
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
cardicowboy wrote:
I would concur with Mikey about the starter motor. I set myself 2 days aside to complete the work, bearing in mind that I was going to service the car at the same time. I started work at 10am. Just after 4pm I gave up trying to get the starter motor off. I have a few issues of LRO where they too document the belts being changed, this was an added benefit to this thread. It laughably states "remove starter motor". I would like to write to them now to ask how the %^*%^$" they managed it?!?! Such swearing at an inanimate object has never been heard.
You probably upset the poor inanimate thing. As posted further above, the trick (?) is to remove the main battery lead from the terminal post before trying to move the motor.
The procedure I have used, and works, is;
Firstly remove all the underguards, the whole lot, all three at the front - you need to be able to see what you're doing!
a) Loosen the fuel cooler bolt and unclip the assembly upwards from the chassis bracket
b) Tricky bit - Undo and remove the two M8 screws that secure the bracket and fuel filter to the chassis. These are the two screws on the chassis side of the bracket, not the filter side. One is OK to access (inboard to the car) but the second is tight for space. It helps if you have lots of lubricating spray to work into the threads from the exposed end. A ratchet 10mm spanner is invaluable for this.
c) Now remove the whole filter assembly from its location, and push it rearwards as far as the pipes will allow
d) Using an open-ended 13mm spanner, remove the main battery leads from the back of the solenoid on the motor (removing the insulated cap with a screwdriver first).
e) Towards the front of the car, there is on P-clip on the side of the engine block, and one "channel" across the front of the engine, supporting the main battery lead. Remove all the screws to allow the battery lead to move around at the starter motor.
f) Remove the two through-bolts securing the starter to the engine backplate casting
g) Pull the main battery lead outboard (towards chassis rail) away from back of motor
h) Lift the motor forwards to the front of the car (it is pretty light) and at the same time guide the main battery terminal upwards and into the engine slightly, to just (just) clear the engine mounting, whilst allowing the pinion gear and shaft to exit the starter aperture at 8 o'clock when looking into the aperture from the motor. You might have to rotate the motor about its shaft axis to get the best clearance on the stud.
i) With the motor clear of the aperture, drop it down slightly, allow it to rest on anything around it (fuel cooler, anything......) and undo the special nut (10mm) that secures the solenoid activation lead to the little post
j) Now remove the motor downwards through the space between engine and fuel cooler
k) And the important bit.......now take the motor to the bench, and shorten the main battery post by 3-4threads, ensuring that the post is filed clean for the nut run afterwards. That way, you will not have to sweat to get the motor back on again, and you will have doubled the value of your engine (probably). You will have also done the job that the Ford designers did not anticipate.
5th Apr 2014 12:06 am
Sydney
Member Since: 11 Aug 2013
Location: St Neots
Posts: 903
7 hours to do the front belt with nothing but problems.
TBH I think someone had a go at it before as the aux belt was fitted the wrong way round. Had to drop the starter out to re-time the engine as I wasn't happy with the set up first time round. It appeared to be a tooth out on original set up as the N/S cam was correct with the flywheel at TDC but the O/S cam was fully anti-clockwise.
Add to that the tensioner kept moving every time I cranked the engine round by hand so I spent the best part of an hour until I was happy with it, 24nm seems a little loose but it makes sense as the mounting hole is only alloy.
Took me nearly an hour to get the fan off, forty minutes of which was searching the garage for some suitable metal to make a holding tool.
The starter is not much fun at all, more annoyingly I discovered the flywheel grommet lying by the wheel after I'd got it all back together...
Next weekend is planned for the rear belt and re-fit the flywheel grommet, onwards and upwards Rodney...
5th May 2014 5:15 pm
BigAl
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 144
Big thanks to Disco Mikey for the excellent write up. Like to also thanks Flack for the excellent write up on changing the oil pump. Job complete and old pump sent to Bodsy.
5th May 2014 6:05 pm
chrissifu
Member Since: 09 May 2014
Location: rugby warwickshire
Posts: 3
Just got my RR SPORT 2007 TDV6 back from main dealer after 105k timing belt service. Car started buzzing noise then smoke and burning smell from engine then all electrics not working, car is dead. Main dealer said they dont do any electrical stuff in that service so if it turns out to be something electrical then its nothing to do with them and I'm liable for everything. Any opinions on this?
9th May 2014 8:18 pm
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1600
It Sounds as though your altenator may have fried it's self.
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