Member Since: 11 May 2012
Location: Rio de janeiro
Posts: 4
Hello everybody! greetings from a warm country and unconditional lover of the legendary Land rovers.
I came here and liked the explanations on maintenance, especially the discovery 3, now that the factory warranties are expiring and vehicles migrate to private workshops because of high costs of parts and labor.
And one of these appeared TDV6 engine completely broken inside, to make only gave two pistons, the rest was broken.
And I will not lie I've taken the belt, but I have no idea how to synchronize the engine, since it has no references and the crankshaft has a spline!
And did not have reference to any since the engine was stuck.
can you help me?
As said the order of detonation, and the first cilidro is later on.
Thank you.
You need to get your hands on the locking pins for the cam shaft and the flywheel, you need to take the starter motor out, a fiddly job and then you can insert the flywheel locking pin to get the cranks in the correct position, then insert the camshaft locking pins in both cams..
This is your only way now to be sure it's all setup in the correct position.
Flack
11th May 2012 10:14 am
Carlos Antonio
Member Since: 11 May 2012
Location: Rio de janeiro
Posts: 4
Thanks a lot really helped!
I do this already on the engine throughout the engine is disassembled and has over 700 pieces!
Remove the starter was the first procedure that I did to try to turn the crankshaft, and relamente is rather hard to do. But it's nothing compared to taking the engine! Since he only comes out by removing the entire body in a lift!
The same goes for the air conditioning compressor and turbine, taking only remove the body.
thanks again.
12th May 2012 12:07 pm
Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Hi Carlos,
This sounds like a big job you are undertaking, and sounds interesting Why don't you take some pictures and keep us updated on your progress?
Good luck anyway
12th May 2012 6:03 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Carlos Antonio wrote:
But it's nothing compared to taking the engine! Since he only comes out by removing the entire body in a lift!
You dont HAVE to remove the body to get the engine out. it can be done with the body in place if you dont have the facilities to lift the body.
There is a bit more involved in the strip down, but it does come out with the body in place My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 11 May 2012
Location: Rio de janeiro
Posts: 4
Matty 2332 wrote:
Hi Carlos,
This sounds like a big job you are undertaking, and sounds interesting Why don't you take some pictures and keep us updated on your progress?
Good luck anyway
Yes ! i put the photos that I can get, so go back to work shooting pictures of the damage in some V6 already scrapped that we receive to determine if a miracle to recover them, many of these engines break here, a few twists to the piston on the crankshaft! It certainly is negligence of the owners to put a good synthetic oil and check the level with some frequency. And also want to walk like a sports car more than 100 miles.
send two separated so I took the body.
Click image to enlarge
[/img]
Click image to enlarge
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Carlos Antonio wrote:
But it's nothing compared to taking the engine! Since he only comes out by removing the entire body in a lift!
You dont HAVE to remove the body to get the engine out. it can be done with the body in place if you dont have the facilities to lift the body.
There is a bit more involved in the strip down, but it does come out with the body in place
Well this is news to me since the very representative of the Land Rover here gave no other alternative but to this. But thanks for the info.
I apologize if I'm dodging the subject of the topic, create a new one to show the photos for leaving the only belt?
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
13th May 2012 3:47 am
maxmax
Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 181
removed wrong placeD3 2.7 TDv6 HSE, 2005 in silver.
2009 nav disc (thanks Wiggs)
2007 software upgrade (thanks Wiggs and Geoff) with 3 flash indicators, follow me home reverse lights, fog with side lights & canadian driving lights
D4 bluetooth module (thanks Wiggs again)
28th May 2012 3:19 pm
stew 46
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: cornwall
Posts: 10147
Disco-Mikey great info on rear belt -------------------------------------------------
if you cant hold on dont let go , it ill come in handy for something even if you never use it.
D3 SE 05,
110 s wagon 300 tdi SOLD
h top transit
crew cab transit
transit connect
ausa dumper, muck truck .
peljob 2.5 digger
06 L 200 crew cab
22nd Aug 2012 6:20 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Member Since: 11 Aug 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 64
Hi guys, decided to undertake this job after reading through the gratious and excellent original post. Just got the old belt off without too much trouble, but need to ask some questions:
1. The Dayco timing belt I was supplied (by terrainvehicles.co.uk) has differnt part number compared to the old one, and no direction of rotation marked (Pic below, new belt on top). Surely the belt supplied is correct, but I don't want to take even the smallest chance. Is someone here able to confirm whether this is the correct belt?
2. I'd like more detailed explanation of how install the front belt tensioner. I expected the base of the tensioner would have some means to positively locate onto the mounting, but I see that it can be installed at any angle. I can see a hex key can be used to adjust the angular position, but the instructions about arrow direction in the original post is a bit ambiguous. I find it strange also that there is no positive means to stop the tensioner from rotating if the bolt becomes even slightly lose? Can someone kindly explain step by step how it is supposed to be installed?
3. Regarding the rear auxiliary drive belt, how the hell to you release one of the cover clips? Any tips, eg tools and technique used?
Thanks in advance for the help!
21st Oct 2012 7:34 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
The front belts are all the same, for all model years. If there is no direction of rotation marked on the belt, the general rule is to fit it so the writing faces you. With the Dayco belt for the TDV6, that is the same way it comes off, only the new belt does not have a direction indicated.
The front belt tensioner does not locate into anything in the block, it tensions itself against the belt. Fit the belt and tensioner, turn the 10mm hex in the tensioner anti-clockwise to set the correct tension, and torque bolt
As yours is an 06MY, the rear belt cover is a doddle. Use a long screwdriver if req. to release the clips at the top, lift out of the lower clips, and wiggle the cover out My D3 Build Thread
If you look in my gallery there are two pictures of the front belt tensioner the first picture I took was before I released the tensioner and you can see how much it has moved away from the notch being in the center with belt wear.
When you tighten the tensioner the notch should be in the center of the window when fully torqued up.
The rear belt cover does come off quite easy I have always just used my fingers and pressed down on the two plastic latches on the top and has DM says you have to wiggle it to get it out, just don't drop anything down the back as its a right pig to find after.
Flack
21st Oct 2012 8:26 am
zetecr
Member Since: 11 Aug 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 64
Many thanks for the quick reply guys.
22nd Oct 2012 4:26 am
chrisalang
Member Since: 26 Jun 2009
Location: Mandurah
Posts: 66
I am changing the timing belt on my 05 D3 this weekend.
From the thread above there is a mention about "turn the 10mm hex in the tensioner anti-clockwise to set the correct tension, and torque bolt"
What is the correct tension? Is this in Nm?
Many thanks for your replies chaps.
13th Nov 2012 6:57 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
The correct tension is aligning the pointer in the window of the tensioner My D3 Build Thread
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum