Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
The solution (subject to me double checking) is in that picture.
Being non-technical and a bit thick I didn't realise a wiring diagram is not the same as what you actually see in reality. I assumed from the diagram you unplugged the 8 pin FBH plug and then connected wires between plug and socket. cos that's what the diagram suggests
As per Marco's pic and no doubt the earlier explanations you just need the extra wire in pin 2 (as available from the D3 shop, or in my case installed by TFC, and connected that to the OBD. Add power to the OBD and it appears (fingers crossed) it should work,
If it doesn't I'll be selling my FBH Tony
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7th Oct 2012 2:47 pm
marco 110
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: SALLES 33
Posts: 1014
RCDtripper wrote:
Why not share your solution
read my message again...............
See picture ..........................
work only if D3 sleeping !!!
Only 3 wire , two for powered OBD lead , one (on 7) to pin 2 on the FHB !
Run Webasto software , pug usb , check device , run diagnostic after.....Easy , no ?
Member Since: 17 Aug 2009
Location: Lancashire, Chorley ..ish
Posts: 204
You must have THREE connections to the ODB:
12v shown as 'W16' and in the diagram brown. This can come direct from the vehicle battery via a fuse.
GND shown as 'W5' and in the diagram is pink/black. This can come direct from the vehicle battery.
WBus show as 'W7' in the diagram red.
You must have supply to the ODB as it contains an interface which is not powered by the USB from the computer/laptop.
There are two options with the WBus wire coming from the ODB.
The correct way is shown in my diagram which makes a 'piggy back' so you can loop into the FBH connector without having the vehicles CAN connected. This allows you full control of the FBH whilst running the vehicle to keep the vehicle battery charged, as there are possibilies of further errors and complications if the vehicle battery voltage is low.
The other option is as per the other diagram which is a variation of mine. Here the WBus is connected straight into the vehicle loom FBH plug. As is pointed out the vehicle must be asleep (handbrake light not illuminated). Bear in mind that for the first few hours of the vehicle being asleep the CAN will at 20min intervals poll the can to make sure everything is asleep. If the WBus is live the FBH will report back that it isn't asleep which will cause errors with and readings you are trying to take BUT also the vehicle via the CAN will force the FBH to go to sleep. This creates yet another error in the FBH log.
Error with the USB interface not finding the FBH is almost always due to the Webasto programme not looking on the correct Comms port when the ODB is plugged in.
Make sure that when the ODB is plugged into the USB that you look in your settings which port it is on and change it to match the Webasto programme.
If you are having issues with the Comms let me know as I have how to install it in a bit more detail.
Ian..so what can I fiddle with today that ain't broken ...?
7th Oct 2012 10:43 pm
marco 110
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: SALLES 33
Posts: 1014
IanNP wrote:
The other option is as per the other diagram which is a variation of mine. Here the WBus is connected straight into the vehicle loom FBH plug. As is pointed out the vehicle must be asleep (handbrake light not illuminated). Bear in mind that for the first few hours of the vehicle being asleep the CAN will at 20min intervals poll the can to make sure everything is asleep. If the WBus is live the FBH will report back that it isn't asleep which will cause errors with and readings you are trying to take BUT also the vehicle via the CAN will force the FBH to go to sleep. This creates yet another error in the FBH log.
Ian
Ian t, very interesting!
I have obd loom "simple", as my diagram above!
Do you think my "worry" can come from there?
I have some doubts suddenly!
Quote:
Bear in mind that for the first few hours of the vehicle being asleep the CAN will at 20min intervals
Explain me the D3 is "awakened" every 20 minutes?
How long after close door ?Marco.
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Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
IanNP wrote:
Error with the USB interface not finding the FBH is almost always due to the Webasto programme not looking on the correct Comms port when the ODB is plugged in.
Make sure that when the ODB is plugged into the USB that you look in your settings which port it is on and change it to match the Webasto programme.
If you are having issues with the Comms let me know as I have how to install it in a bit more detail.
Ian
Thanks Ian, its not interfacing at all. Just sys "WWT something" and sits there. I have the wires in place including power to the OBD, which I verified with Marco.
The OBD is a USB, and comes up as a FT232R USB UART, and has USB Serial Port (Com4) and Convertor by FTDI, which windows reports are both operating correctly. When power is applied the OBD does a little test run of its lights then has a green flash as it tries to talk to the FBH. The webasto software is set to COM4 and when diagnosis is started as the green LED flashes.Tony
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8th Oct 2012 8:00 pm
vinnie
Member Since: 22 Jul 2011
Location: chesterfield
Posts: 314
Well mine kicked into life this morning, first time after summer i think. Just waiting for Pete's controller now so i can do manually
9th Oct 2012 6:58 pm
raymocrjd
Member Since: 02 Oct 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 69
Does anyone know how difficult it is to remove the FBH, I'm looking at a replacement unit and I want to fit it myself?
Any instructions?
Cheers,
Last edited by raymocrjd on 15th Apr 2020 11:36 pm. Edited 1 time in total
I've changed mine. It's pretty obvious to be honest when you look - hardest part is capping the water pipes so they don't leak - but as long as you do it on a cold engine with no pressure in, they can be left open for the short while it takes to disconnect and connect - just make sure they are held up a bit - corks are probably the easiest to use due to the tight space.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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11th Oct 2012 6:58 am
marco 110
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: SALLES 33
Posts: 1014
My recent investigations:
I now know that my co2 values ​​are not correct, ok, But to be able changing them, the FHB should operate at full load combustion!
Therefore, impossible to make the right adjustments if FHB can't run,so , how reset the FHB software ?
I try everything: hard-reset the D3, and all things with the Webasto software !
Have you any idea?
He is dead otherwise!!
And it's my fault!!
I guess there is a electronic board inside, how to change? we can only change it!? ......
Another software?
Anyone know a technician Webasto to ask question ?Marco.
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Member Since: 13 May 2008
Location: Droitwich
Posts: 36
Well after many failed attempts to get the heater running. I had another go last week.
I took the fuel pipe off the heater and did a prime ( puts fresh fuel into the pipe ).
Then reconnected pipe to heater and pumped fuel in at 5 hz for 15 seconds.
As you can imagine, this put a lot of fuel in (relatively speaking). Then I put the glow plug on 100 % for 3 min.
At this time, there was quite a bit of smoke from the air in. I put the glow plug on for another 3 mins. started to hear popping from the heater. not loud, but you could tell the fuel was burning. Ran a test fire, and all the time the fuel pump was running, I blew HARD down the air intake as much as I could until it shut down again.
I repeated the process a couple more times, then wonders happened. the heater didnt shut down and did a full burn. here are some vids I got. the last one is showing you the readouts from the webasto software from start to full power burn.
Marco, you are correct, you cannot adjust the CO2 until you are in full burn mode. I made the CO2 adjusted so that I got the best reading on the flame detector ( hottest )
As you can see, tonnes of smoke were produced and this continued for ages.
Now, the heater fires up first time and burns cleanly.
So happy, you can imagine. I was quoted £150 from a local garage to take the heater off and de-coke it, but with a bit of perserverence, I got it done myself.
I now intend to run the software at least once a month to keep fresh fuel in the pipe and the chamber clean and coke free. the OBD connector is in the engine bay permenatly, with the usb routed through into the cabin so can be done easily.
15th Nov 2012 6:55 pm
marco 110
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: SALLES 33
Posts: 1014
Quote:
Marco, you are correct, you cannot adjust the CO2 until you are in full burn mode. I made the CO2 adjusted so that I got the best reading on the flame detector ( hottest )
Yep , and , first time , I had make a mistake : put too low value , and after : my FHB never go.... Marco.
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Member Since: 13 May 2008
Location: Droitwich
Posts: 36
If you set the C2 too low, then you have it too fuel rich. Try blowing down the air intake pipe to increase the amount of air. Also try heating up the chamber as I did by running the glowplug for a long time. Else, you are gonna have to take a drive to the seaside to fire it up, then adjust while you are there.
While mine was burning off the crap in the chamber, I found that forcing the co2 setting up, helped keep the flame det reading higher, but this was only the case until the crap burnt out and she started to burn cleanly.
Keep trying.
18th Nov 2012 12:17 am
ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
Quick question - is the USB-OBD2 cable an adaptor cable or an interface?
There are cheap USB and serial OBD2 cables on oobay for less than £10 - with they work with a laptop and Webasto software, or does it need to an interface cable?
UPDATE - can I use the OBD2-serial cable that came with my Faultmate FCR or is that FCR specific?
Thanks.Tony
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25th Nov 2012 4:10 pm
Simon.pl
Member Since: 02 Dec 2010
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 224
I was close to buy the OBDII cable as well, but I saw this picture and it worked for me Of course you need 1533 or GSM controller for that but unlocked my Webasto
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cos that's what the diagram suggests 
