| Can you get in using the key |
| yes |
63%
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63% |
[96] |
| no |
20%
|
20% |
[31] |
| yes but with difficulty |
12%
|
12% |
[19] |
| I broke my key! |
3%
|
3% |
[6] |
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| Total Votes: 152 |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
  
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Had to use key yesterday as remote stopped working, opened no problem. Going to dealer to be fixed, they suspect receiver aerial cable connection as they have seen a few failures of connection?
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 7th Mar 2012 6:16 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
  
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If you have a second key fob, I assume that it does not open the vehicle either. Yes, what your dealer is talking about could be the problem. I presume you are familiar with the splice problem under the door sills per the link below. I also presume that your dealer is as well, however the thread is worth reading regardless.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic29241-15.html
I thought of it as many have assumed the solution was with the receiver aerial or the power to wiring to it and instead discovered they had the corroded splice problem instead. The good news is that the splice thing is probably easier to get at than the aerial wiring. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 7th Mar 2012 12:45 pm |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
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Many thanks for reply. I might have described the dealers response wrong, as they said it was a possible wiring issue in the passenger side of car. Being an intermittent problem, so most likely the loose connection as you described. As car is covered by warranty going to get dealer to sort it out. Car going in tomorrow so will post response on their findings.
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| 7th Mar 2012 8:30 pm |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
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As promised further feedback. After 2 days at dealers got the car back and no resolution to problem. They say that they checked all the wiring for loose connections and could not find any and now think problem lies with key so they have ordered a new key ( at their cost).
Highly frustrating so looks like I will have to check the connection referred to in other posts whilst waiting for the new key.
Will update once I have looked at connection.
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| 11th Mar 2012 6:34 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Splice is near front seat on passenger side |
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Below is a pretty good link re a discussion as to where the splice is located for a LHD LR3. For RHD, it is still the passenger side, but this time on the left. There are posts regarding both LHD and RHD and finding the spice. It is well buried within a wiring bundle under the wide plastic covers between the carpet and the door sill metal. The last page of the thread shows pictures. Maybe you will teach the dealer something.
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f41/k...elp-28115/ 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 11th Mar 2012 11:01 pm |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
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Have redone the splice, as stated. quite a search in the wiring loom to find. The biggest pain was getting the covers back in.
Unfortunately the repair has not fixed the problem as the remote lock/unlock is still intermittent , so will now wait to see if new key fixes the problem. 
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| 13th Mar 2012 8:06 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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I presume that the colour of the wires going into the splice you redid was some combination of white and green? I ask that as there is a second splice within the loom at about that location, but with red coloured wires that provide power to the power window switch lights. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 13th Mar 2012 2:26 pm |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
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Also wondered if did the correct splice, but was only one I could find with green/white stripe wires 1 on one side and 2 on the other end of which one went forward and the other under the passenger seat. Did also find 2 other splices, but they were both with red wires so left them alone.
Many thanks for all the help. Hope I did not get it wrong.
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| 13th Mar 2012 4:23 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| White/green are the correct wires. |
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It sounds like you redid the correct splice, the green white wires; it is unfortunate that does not appear to be the solution as it is a simple one once you find the splice.
Please keep us informed as to the final fix as we all benefit from others "found" solutions. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 13th Mar 2012 8:10 pm |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
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just a quick update, since the splice did not work.
Have read a few posts on the key battery being a problem sometimes with solder joint being loose after being banged around a bit. So now when remote won't open doors have tapped the key a bit and this has seemed to help, as the remote suddenly starts to work. Will now wait for new key to arrive from UK and if that solves problem, then will know it is old remote and will open it and replace battery, whilst resoldering battery connections. will update at that time. thanks again for help.
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| 15th Mar 2012 9:09 am |
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Zono
Member Since: 28 Feb 2012
Location: Cape town
Posts: 8
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Have had the new key for a few days now and working perfectly so looks like fault was with old key.
Will try open it sometime and resolder battery.
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| 27th Mar 2012 3:31 pm |
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bmc052
Member Since: 22 Oct 2012
Location: Pembroke
Posts: 6
 
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| Key not keeping charge, possibly flat battery inside |
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I have one key not keeping charge. After a good drive i will be able to lock doors but once i am back after approx 6 hours the remote does not work. Am using the spare key and that works fine. Tried to order a new one but they asked me for 350 Euros for a new one. Any suggestions?
Thanks
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| 23rd Oct 2012 8:42 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Link showing battery replacement. |
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Below is a link to battery replacement. There are many other threads as well. Use +battery +replacement or similar as search words.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic39609.h...key+%2Bfob 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 23rd Oct 2012 1:24 pm |
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bmc052
Member Since: 22 Oct 2012
Location: Pembroke
Posts: 6
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hi,
Thanks so much for the great help.
I was told you are helpful but i never thought it is this good.
Thanks so much guys 
BMC
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| 24th Oct 2012 7:58 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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Replacing the battery is not what I would call a fun task. Splitting the case open it is suggested you wear gloves as that is the dangerous part of the whole procedure and tends to draw blood. Once you get the case open, look carefully at how the existing battery is soldered into the circuit.
I say that as it is possible that the existing battery is OK and that one of the soldered connections is cracked and then charging and operation can be intermittent. In other words, you just might try re-soldering the two tabs first.
To charge the battery back up, just tape it to the key fob in use. The radiated power will over a few days bring the charge back up. The good part about that technique is that you do not have to put the case back together and hence can measure the state of charge of the battery to see if anything good is happening. It is also possible that the battery will show near 3 volts when you open the case up. If so, that does suggest re-soldering is the answer to the problem as the cracked solder joints are for the most part, only affecting operation rather than the charging cycle as that occurs whenever the key is in or near the ignition cylinder.
We appreciated your thank you - it is nice to get feedback. Keep us informed as to how the fix proceeds if you go ahead. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 24th Oct 2012 2:34 pm |
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