When you went to check your struts what did you find? |
Both struts loose |
7%
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7% |
[40] |
Left strut loose |
1%
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1% |
[10] |
Right strut loose |
37%
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37% |
[202] |
Both struts tight |
52%
|
52% |
[283] |
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Total Votes: 535 |
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crews control
Member Since: 18 Mar 2007
Location: Dorset
Posts: 5011
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NicSymonds wrote:...my right hand side top nut was very nearly completely out.
On a 2012 D4 !!!
That's outrageous - I assumed LR would have solved this after 9 years.
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1st Jan 2014 7:16 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26776
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Me too
Off to check my D4 now.
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1st Jan 2014 8:26 pm |
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amphoto
Member Since: 29 Dec 2013
Location: Leek
Posts: 22
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Just checked mine left good and tight but..... right just about hanging on managed to tighten up though and all seems ok will get some lock tight on it tomorrow too just in case
Once again thanks guys for the tip
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7th Jan 2014 7:01 pm |
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Cristi S
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Bucharest
Posts: 17
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The right screw that helds the strut gave up in dec 2012 after 7 and a half years of use. It fell down and I got it welded and painted. Worked great for me.
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15th Jan 2014 10:44 am |
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incubus13
Member Since: 02 Feb 2014
Location: Bourgas
Posts: 17
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My RH screw was completely unscrewed. I found it myself a week ago. It was trapped there, standing angled up, trying to free itself and fly in the open space.
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8th Feb 2014 7:47 pm |
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fino
Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Middlesex/ Surrey
Posts: 163
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Viewed a D3 today and brought it.
The RHS was coming away and a good few turns with an open spanner got it back in.
LHS was tight.
Last edited by fino on 4th Mar 2014 12:30 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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3rd Mar 2014 5:04 pm |
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waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2923
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Welcome to D3 ownership - your first fix ! Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
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3rd Mar 2014 5:07 pm |
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DiscoNate
Member Since: 25 Sep 2013
Location: Sligo, Ireland
Posts: 29
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Close call the other day...
RH had unwound and came away completely. LH tight.
I was rushing to go to work at the time and thought the nut/plate had fallen inside the bodywork.
It hadn't. When I arrived in work, a 40 mile 1 hour drive, I found the ball screw sat on my rear bumper where it had been all along.
There was a little damage to the thread but I was able to turn it back in and all is fine again.
Speaks volumes for the effectiveness of the air suspension.
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9th Apr 2014 12:07 pm |
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jonnybgud
Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 397
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Checked my 2007 D3 last night, passenger side perfect, on the drivers side I could spin the washer!, 3 turns and its nice and tight... a big thanks to this forum, it just keeps on giving
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16th Apr 2014 1:24 pm |
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Craigsa
Member Since: 28 Mar 2014
Location: Swakopmund
Posts: 7
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Just bought an '06 D3 and guess what. Strut just pulled out. I see it has before and someone has stuffed it up so the whole nut now fits through the hole.
Now I need to get a large washer and nut there!
What a up.
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17th Apr 2014 12:19 pm |
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Macpic
Member Since: 28 Apr 2013
Location: Rambouillet
Posts: 167
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Just lost my right nut !
Looking for a way to fix it without cutting up the whole car. When I do I'll post pictures.
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10th May 2014 5:34 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1790
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There are a couple of good tips on here about this problem, an 8mm nut glued or welded to a wire coathanger and either passed through an existing hole behind the the rear pillar cover or removing the tail lamp and drilling a suitable hole and passing it up that way, good luck
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10th May 2014 6:02 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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Coat hanger or fishing line or ... |
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Yes, there is a post somewhere regarding a coat hanger. I think another variation of the theme is pushing some fishing line or light wire thru the existing hole. The line falls to the bottom where one can access the loose end via removal of the panel where the jack is stored - or the whole panel.
You will need to make some sort of T shaped nut holder out of a paper clip or similar and attach it to the line so that you can pull the nut tight to the inside surface of the metal once you get the nut in place.
Something sticky like contact cement is applied to one side of the nut and when the nut is sucked back up, by pulling on the T, the nut glues itself to the inside of the hole such that when the glue dries, the nut remains there long enough to get that ball bit threaded back in.
The trick is to make certain the nut threads do not get any glue on them and that they run smooth at least for the first couple of turns.
Good luck - it is doable without taking a cutting torch to your 3 but figure the project taking most of the day - that way you will not get too frustrated and instead have a sense of success. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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10th May 2014 1:26 pm |
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454697819
Member Since: 13 May 2014
Location: Ipswich
Posts: 70
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oooh thanks for this - Just been and checked mine (had it less than a week) and the RHS strut was loose, Ill find a spanner and sort it.
Oddly enough it would appear as if it has already had red locktite applied previousy..
I question if the nut is still there on the other side..
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23rd May 2014 12:36 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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It' still there, but .... |
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I expect the nut is still there but I would not waste much time thinking about tightening it up.
Each time you open the hatch, a twisting occurs; also vehicle motion creates vibration - the kind that loosens nuts, not tightens them.
This is why I said to make certain you get the direction of rotation correct on the first attempt to tighten the ball stud; rarely do you get a second chance. Re the right hand side, you rotate the open end wrench downwards if I recall correctly.
You can practice on the left side, (passenger side of vehicle in the UK). For that, you rotate the wrench upwards. The thinner the open end wrench the better as you will note.
Re the Locktite, no, it does not necessarily stay tight and is the reason I check a couple of times a year.
In my case, the Locktite seems to have worked but I still keep checking. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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23rd May 2014 1:20 pm |
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