Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Front Lower Ball Joints - How To
As promised, how to replace front lower ball joint
If you need any help or further info, please feel free to PM or email me
From a previous Ball Joint thread Nick gave the new part numbers as...
RBK500230
RBK500240 (Cheers RBM, and TLO )
Add these ball joints to ARB spacers (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic30622.html) and all will be well. I had access to a ramp here, but is easy enough to do at the side of the road/driveway etc
Start by jacking car up, and removing front wheel. You will be confronted by this:
Click image to enlarge
Have an assistant hold the brake pedal down as hard as possible while undoing the hub nut. It will be extremely tight. An impact wrench is very useful here, but either method will do it
Click image to enlarge
Then remove 10mm bolt holding the brake flexi onto the hub carrier. Disconnect wheel speed sensor from the bracket, Then remove both caliper carrier bolts, a double hex (12 point) 21 mm socket and breaker bar is needed here. The bottom picture was taken from behind the hub looking outwards, showing the bolts. Need to take out the outer bolts
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
With the caliper removed, you can see the wheel speed sensor, just an 8 mm bolt holding it in. Sometimes seizes in, so requires gentle manipulation to remove it without breaking it
SteveNorman suggest that if the ABS sensor doesn't come out of the hub, (or the bolt is about to break off) (or is tight, & you risk damaging it) trace the wire back up, remove a couple of arch clips & unplug it from behind the arch liner, & leave in the hub, with the wire
Click image to enlarge
Now, remove the driveshaft from the hub. There is a special tool to do this, but I prefer a big punch and hammer
Click image to enlarge
If it still doesnt move, then something to push the shaft out may be necessary. A little WD40 goes a long way though.
Click image to enlarge
Remove the track rod end nut, and upper arm nut, both 18mm nuts, and remove the bottom 24mm nut, but leave it on a thread or 2, so the hub cant fall off. You can also remove the brake disc so the hub assy isnt as heavy to lift on and off the car...
Click image to enlarge
Once the hub is off, you will be left with this:
Click image to enlarge
The proper way to do this is to remove the whole arm from the car and press it in and out, but this way is easier and quicker.
Remove circlip, support the suspension arm with an axle stand and find special tool* Either tie up the driveshaft or position to the side out of the way
The arm needs to be supported so when it is hit down the way, the shcok absorber is not at full reach, otherwise damage may occur to said shockie
*For special tool, find a socket that is no longer needed, that fits inside the 'cup' in the ball joint
Click image to enlarge
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 8th Nov 2009 9:17 am. Edited 5 times in total
17th Feb 2009 7:05 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Swing away with a big hammer making sure you dont catch the arch trims or driveshaft. See how many hits it takes you to get it out
Once out...
Click image to enlarge
To refit the new ball joint, you will need to find something that will fit over the outer edges of it, but is also deep enough to not catch the threads of it either. I managed to get hold of the proper LR tool to fit it...
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Looks like it is well used
Remember and remove the axle stand before refitting. When refitting, WD40 helps again. When fitting, you can either hit the tool and balljoint up the way, into the arm. Or support them on something like a trolley jack, and hit the arm downwards onto the ball joint. Its all good.
Make sure it goes all the way in, until it is flush with the underside of the arm, so it looks something like this
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Refitting is the reverse of removal. Torque setting are as follows:
Upper arm nut - 76Nm
Track rod end - 76Nm
Bottom arm nut - 115Nm
Driveshaft nut - 230Nm
Wheelnuts - 140Nm
Brake disc to hub is 35Nm
Caliper to cariier is 35Nm
Caliper carrier to hub is 275NM (Cheers Pete )
Refit road wheel and repeat for the other side if necessary. Then go for a quick run and listen to how knock free your car is again. Then sit back and think how you will spend the £200 you have just saved yourself that SWMBO doesnt know about
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
Nice post.
Brake disc to hub is 35Nm
Caliper to carrier is 35Nm
Caliper carrier to hub is 275NM
Regards pete
17th Feb 2009 7:21 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1145
Nice post.
If the ABS sensor doesn't come out of the hub, (or the bolt is about to break off) (or is tight, & you risk damaging it) trace the wire back up, remove a couple of arch clips & unplug it from behind the arch liner, & leave in the hub, with the wire.
By time the ball joints need renewing, the bushes are likely to be getting worn, so check carefully before you start.
The new wishbones (with larger balljoints) come with bushes & joints fitted. RBJ501540 + RBJ501550 might be a better choice.
From a previous Ball Joint thread Nick gave the new part numbers as...
RBK500230
RBK500240
So there's a complete wishbone assembly available with new bushes and the modified ball joint? Anyone have a price and part number for that?Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
18th Feb 2009 4:41 pm
BrumLee
Member Since: 07 Mar 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1364
Looks easier than the MB Sprinter ball joints that I have to regularly change
Cool write-up Mikey
18th Feb 2009 5:07 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
SteveNorman wrote:
By time the ball joints need renewing, the bushes are likely to be getting worn, so check carefully before you start.
The new wishbones (with larger balljoints) come with bushes & joints fitted. RBJ501540 + RBJ501550 might be a better choice.
I did think about that, however, the bolts holing the arms onto the chassis are there to adjust camber and castor. Even if you mark these bolts and refit them exactly the same, you still risk knocking the wheel alignment out of spec, which is a big enough problem in itself.
But, it is worth considering if you have a fairly high mileage car or tyres are wearing unevenly anyway My D3 Build Thread
Supa write up
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
18th Feb 2009 10:02 pm
ramblinrookie
Member Since: 29 May 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 8
New New Lower ball joint part number
Hi,
Apparently there is a new lower ball joint part number (referenced by TLO in July this) - RBK500280.
As an aside how good are OEM units - does anyone have experience of the Lemforder units?
Thanks06 Discovery 3 HSE
95 Discovery 1 tdi300 Gone but not forgotten
89 Range Rover 3500 V8 Ditto
Addictive blighters these Landrovers....Thought I had the bug bad - obviously just a beginner.
23rd Sep 2009 2:29 pm
irl32
Member Since: 27 Aug 2009
Location: Co Mayo
Posts: 66
The large bushing located at the rear of the lower front wishbone needs chainging on both sides, also the top knuckle bushing on both of the rear wheels also require chainging,
Does any one have advice and pice for me.
7th Dec 2009 11:59 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
irl32 wrote:
The large bushing located at the rear of the lower front wishbone needs chainging on both sides, also the top knuckle bushing on both of the rear wheels also require chainging,
Does any one have advice and pice for me.
Have fun...
Best bet is to replace both front lower wishbones and both rear upper wishbones. Come ready fitted with all the bushes etc already My D3 Build Thread
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