Q86ARR
Member Since: 23 Feb 2010
Location: Jersey
Posts: 379
  
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32mm for the hub nut.
One small tip: use a copper hammer on the ball joint until it moves then put a socket in the ball joint to tap it out.
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 2nd Mar 2010 7:52 pm |
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nissanbrad
Member Since: 21 Jun 2009
Location: basildon , essex
Posts: 15
 
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thanks for this post this will help me loads as ive already tried and gave up once.
but now i can do it. 
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| 24th Mar 2010 2:36 pm |
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Adzbaby
Member Since: 14 Apr 2010
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 48
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Just done one of these this arvo, got the other in the morning.
I phoned the main stealer to order the ball joint. Would you believe the parts guy admitted that LR had a huge quality issue with all the ball joints used on the earlier models (yeah no sheet Sherlock) that were made in eastern europe and that they changed them for a more robust and beefed up model (made in the UK) and customers replacing them are advised to do so in pairs with the new type (RBK500280). So if LR knew they had quality issues and the original BJoints weren't up to the job how come no recall; well we know why?
So I bought a pair for £57inc.
Thanks for the guide, makes the job a lot easier. It wasn't too bad and took 1.5 hours with some care and the tidy up, tomorrow's should be half the time.
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| 16th Apr 2010 7:13 pm |
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Brede
Member Since: 17 Apr 2008
Location: Norway
Posts: 53
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Regarding the removal of the driveshaft from the hub:
it seems that this is impossible on my car.. I've just spent 2 days trying to remove my left front driveshaft with no success at all.
I've tried hitting it with a hammer, hitting it with a sledgehammer, prying it out with all the tools in my garage.
I tried my biggest "puller/pusher" and destroyed it in the process. I went out and bought a special removal tool and also destroyed this. I've heated it with a torch and then used an even bigger sledgehammer.
It hasn't budged a millimeter..
Just to be sure: there are no hidden bolts that secures the shaft in any way??
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| 23rd Aug 2010 9:53 am |
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BrumLee
Member Since: 07 Mar 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1364
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Brede, have you removed the lower ball joint from the bottom of the stub? If you pop the ball joint out of the bottom of the stub, it gives chance to move the splines out of the hub easier.
If you have you need to soak the splines in a good penertrating fluid delivered by an aerosol.
HTH Faultmate MSV2 EXTREME
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| 24th Aug 2010 12:57 pm |
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Brede
Member Since: 17 Apr 2008
Location: Norway
Posts: 53
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Thanks Lee. Have tried that and everything else now, the driveshaft is totally seized in the hub.
My golf-training came in handy when I decided to swing the sledgehammer in anger. On the plus side I did not break anything, on the other hand the shaft did not budge.
Looks like I'm gonna have to give this up.. 
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| 27th Aug 2010 6:53 pm |
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Q86ARR
Member Since: 23 Feb 2010
Location: Jersey
Posts: 379
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Just so people know, the driveshaft nut torque has now changed to 230Nm to help prolong the life of wheel bearings.
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| 27th Aug 2010 9:46 pm |
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discodiscodisco
Member Since: 15 Sep 2009
Location: North
Posts: 50
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I first tried to do this as described, but the balljoints wouldnt budge, eaven hammering all my full 100kg at the blow. Stuck like they were welded on. Needed a press. 
My local stealer struggled as well. They had to remove the bridge to get it in the press. However, they hat to use heat to loosen the bolts- so I had to buy new bushes for the bridge. At the stealers they thought this would fix the problem, and I would not have to pay for this extra labour. Got a call at the end of the day I should collect...the car would not be finished. It was ready to collect at the end of next day. Pale in the face, the stealerman said they had miscalculated the time. Each bridge alone was supposedly estimated a 4.7hr job to change the bushings on...(!!!)
Here in Norway, the price for their job for the next D3, with balljoints, bushes and 4 wheel alignment (just for labour) would be approx 1700GBP!!! But he offered me a price of 700...One man had worked two full days with my big blue, swearing. 
I took the offer and drove off, happy  Enjoing my smooth, bumpfree ride..... Club Traxide and dual Optima- red and yellow
Club broken EPB
Club 4 broken mudflaps
Club BAS EGR blanks
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| 25th Oct 2010 12:57 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Disco_Mikey wrote:Driveshaft nut - 350Nm
Mikey, This setting is now updated and should be 275Nm  Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
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| 2nd Nov 2010 7:04 pm |
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disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
 
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Brede wrote:Regarding the removal of the driveshaft from the hub:
it seems that this is impossible on my car.. I've just spent 2 days trying to remove my left front driveshaft with no success at all.
Brede, As mentioned, the shaft is only secured by the hub nut, I assume you are pulling the free end of the yoke (and hub) forward slightly when you hit it - if you don't, the drive shaft will be fully home in the diff, and the impact from hitting will transfer through to the diff gears etc - not good 
I pre soaked the shaft with release fluid, then I used a 14lb lump hammer, and a brave assistant to hold the hub forward, but it came out after 2 or 3 good strikes
see my write up here http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic54694.html?highlight=
You'll notice in the first picture, how corroded the splined shaft was 
Persevere, it will come out Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
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| 2nd Nov 2010 7:45 pm |
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Gazan1
Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 17
 
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| Re: New New Lower ball joint part number |
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ramblinrookie wrote:Hi,
Apparently there is a new lower ball joint part number (referenced by TLO in July this) - RBK500280.
As an aside how good are OEM units - does anyone have experience of the Lemforder units?
Thanks
Be careful installing after market Ball joints. I had the misfortune of a repair agent installing Non genuine lowers ball joints (twice) and they were too big in the OD (outer diameter). Hence when pressed or hit in place, this caused the hole to be flared (expanded) so that the OEM ball joint replacement (new flanged one, RBK500280) simply could be slipped in and out by hand.
Both lower control arms had to be replaced. Not a cheap exercise (if you include the labour)
Regards,
Gaz 2006, TDV6SE, Zambezi Silver
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| 7th Nov 2010 7:23 am |
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radders89
Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1051
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Re the LR tool used to fit the new ball joint in place are these easy to get hold of or can I improvise using something similar to what was used to knock the old joint out?
Cheers MY15 D4 SDV6 HSE Corris Grey - Gone
MY05 D3 TDV6 SE Zambezi silver Auto Alpaca leather - Gone
MY02' Seat Leon 1.6s Metallic Black cloth trim with a hint of mould
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Women... Can't live with em, can't kill em...
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| 2nd Oct 2011 9:06 am |
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mees
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: bru
Posts: 20
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What is the current setting of the hub nut 275 or 230 NM?
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| 25th Nov 2011 12:17 pm |
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Rossatron
Member Since: 04 Mar 2011
Location: Dartmoor, Devon
Posts: 12
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Just been having a go at this, the new ball joints (genuine LR) are loose in the wishbone! New wishbones then I guess...Doh. 
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| 7th Dec 2011 7:39 pm |
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