Member Since: 30 Nov 2010
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 45
Firstly, thanks to those involved putting the guide together as I successfully quietened down my D3 last night.
For those finding the fuel cooler bolt a problem I found it easy by sitting on the floor facing the wheel well passing the socket and extension bar (minus the ratchet as this makes it difficult to feel what you are doing) over the top of the chassis from the wheel side using your left hand. Lightly grip the socket then guide it onto the nut. Now attach the ratchet with your right hand and undo!
Once the nut was cracked on mine, the bolt unscrewed easily using my fingers.Number31
24th Apr 2012 8:09 am
jhaddock
Member Since: 08 Oct 2011
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 47
Can any one confirm if these spacers (LR012410) came 4 in a package, one for each corner, or I have to purchase each one separately? I am asking because local dealer didn't have it in stock and they haven't an answer to this question.
Thank you
16th Jul 2012 1:06 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
They come as a pack of 4 shims. Only need to purchase 1 item My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 08 Oct 2011
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 47
Thank you Disco_Mikey for the information and the post as well
Cheers!
17th Jul 2012 11:35 am
fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
My D3 has developed a slight knock on the drivers side (right hand side) before I go off to dealer, I thought I would try fitting Anti Roll Bar bush spacers to see if that would fix the problem.
Do I have to fit them on both sides or can I get away just fitting on the side making the knock?
Is this is a difficult DIY job for a novice (I am OK at oil changes have recently changed diffs and transfer box oils, and managed to change my steering wheel but this is a step on!)
Also is the Anti Roll Bar under tension when on Axle stands (i.e. would spring off if I fully undid both bolts).
13th Jan 2013 8:29 pm
Rid the gent
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 94
Just done my front arbs on Friday,
If your wheels are straight there shouldn't be any tension.
But I won't take any responsibility if they are
Paul2005 manual se
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13th Jan 2013 9:34 pm
rovervirus
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: behind the sun
Posts: 92
getting help from this board since some time,
i like to pay something back:
for changing the upper nut at the left hand arb rubber bearing:
loosen the three bolts (24mm nut) from the diff holding arm and you can push
the arm a little bit away so that you have enough space to fit a
standard 1/2 wrench with a normal 18mm nut.
also an air driven wrench might fit.
see the finger pointing at the gap.
17th Sep 2013 7:01 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Top tip; thank you.
Although it would be just my luck to shear a diff bolt, even if they are 24mm!
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: behind the sun
Posts: 92
they were really easy to unscrew,
the screws were "lubricated" with some ceramic paste.
of course I also used ceramic paste before refit.
18th Sep 2013 5:28 am
mccp
Member Since: 07 Nov 2007
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 12
Two useful tips with photos
Thanks to tips from rovervirus and Number31 I've just replaced both ARB bushes, taking about 10 minutes on the drivers side and 15 minutes on the passenger side (wheels already off for lower wishbone replacement).
For the drivers side (RHD), as long as you have the wheels off, access to the bolt holding the fuel cooler on is easy if you put your hand through the aperture in the chassis. I used a 3/8" 10mm socket, extension and ratchet to crack the bolt and it unscrewed easily by hand.
In the picture above, the aperture is just to the left of top knot in the white cord holding up my brake caliper. If you look at the the photos of the fuel cooler in Disco_Mikey's post about the ARB spacers you should find the bolt easily.
My MY08 has a 15mm AF bolt in the top of the ARB bracket which came out easily with a standard 1/2" socket and ratchet. The bottom 18mm nut is easy to access.
Putting the bracket back on is also easy if you get the bottom nut on and then nip it up fully before attempting the top bolt as the bracket is stiff enough to pull itself onto the bush as you tighten the bottom nut.
The passenger side looked like a complete fail until I realised that I could just undo the three 24mm bolts holding the diff bracket to the diff housing, confirmed by rovervirus' earlier post in this thread. Wedge a big screwdriver between the diff and the chassis crossmember to take the weight of the diff (not that heavy) and you may be able to unscrew the bolts by hand after cracking them with a 24" breaker bar as I did.
After wedging a piece of wood between the diff and the bracket I unscrewed the top ARB bracket nut with a 1/2" 18mm socket and 12" breaker bar. It would be quicker to unscrew if you removed the chassis crossmember, but I'm not sure where the diff would go. Anyhow, on my MY08, the 10 bolts holding the sump guard on put me off.
The image above shows my makeshift wedge, you can see the two lower bolt holes in the diff bracket.
Easy access now, but just space for 1/6 turn at a time, so I speeded it up with a 3/8" socket, wobble extension and ratchet.
Once the ARB bush is replaced, it was easy to manoeuvre the diff with a big screwdriver to line up the diff bracket holes. The bolts screwed in by hand and I guessed at a torque of 200NM - I needed my 24" breaker bar to crack them so tight seemed like the order of the day.
23rd Sep 2013 8:12 pm
magwa
Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: llanbrynmair
Posts: 5
Re: Anti Roll Bar bush spacers - How-To
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Knock from your front and/or rear suspension? Read on...
If you need any help or further info, please feel free to PM or email me
Replacing just the ARB bushes will probably cure it for a few weeks/months, but Land Rover released a technical bulletin about these spacers. They wont replace the bushes under warranty any more, but will fit these spacers if a complaint is made about a knock/rattle, and it is found to be either Anti-Roll bar with play in the bushes, or the actual bar itself sliding side to side. It is also worthwhile checking all ball joints and suspension bushes while you are under the car anyway, as these spacers may or may not cure your fault...
Part number is LR012410.
Click image to enlarge
I was already half way through doing this job, before i thought about doing a guide on it....
It can be done without removing the rear wheels, but its much easier to do so.
Click image to enlarge
Start by drowning the clamp bolts in penetrating oil, and remove the front bolt completely. Access is tight between the chassis and the body, so a ratchet spanner helps here. Remove the rear bolt approx. half way allowing the bar to be raised enough to slide one of your spacers in. If you are struggling to get it in, remove the rear bolt completely also.
Click image to enlarge
Lubricate the threads before tightening up, and refit. One side done, repeat for other rear side. Then move to the front...
This was done on a 4 poster, and access was good. How easy it will be on the floor, i dont know. Remove undertray and you will be confronted with this, obviously minus the big red arrow
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Its not necessary to remove the crossmember, but it does help. Remove the 3 rear 15mm bolts, and just out of picture is another 15mm bolt (hence the arrow )
Click image to enlarge
The bottom bolt is easy, but the top bolt is very tight to get at, and quite tight. I used a breaker bar and a 1/2" drive ratchet, a 1/2-3/8 reducer (£4 from halfords BTW) and a 3/8" drive 18mm socket. Or, you can just remove the bottom nut and a get a mahoosive lever and lever the bar hard enough to slide the spacer in. Whichever way works for you...
Refit the crossmember if removed and move to the other side
Again, the top bolt is a bit tight to get at, until the fuel cooler is removed. Circled, is a 10mm bolt holding the fuel cooler to the chassis. Again, a ratchet spanner helps massively here.
Click image to enlarge
Once removed, secure out of the way and remove the 18mm nuts again. Much easier on this side
Click image to enlarge
Refit nuts, refit cooler, refit undertray and take a quick drive. Listen to how quiet and knock free your suspension is. Job done
Brilliant
I have had an advisory on MOT on my fronts Roll Bar bushes
I shall be following this guide
TOP JOB
Magwa :bow:
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
Member Since: 02 Feb 2014
Location: Bourgas
Posts: 17
Hello everybody!
I checked my rear anti roll bar yesterday and noticed that I can easily slide it side to side by hand. I ordered new bushes. May I fit these spacers LR012410 with the new bushes or just wait and fit them 30 - 40000km. later?
4th Feb 2014 7:02 am
nighthawk
Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Malta
Posts: 1163
My LR specialist told me you don't need these spacers anymore. If you buy new bushes now they are a different design which fixes this issue. Basically, the bushes are thicker.Dennis
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Manual Buckingham Blue
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