Fitted a pair of bushes (not shims) yesterday to the fronts.
A couple of observations:
1. the 18mm socket for the near side upper nut has to be REALLY short. I ended up grinding a fair bit off my socket to fit
2. even with a short socket, the clearance for a breaker bar is still REALLY tight. I ended up with a stubby 3/8 extension (3" or so) and an ultra-narrow head breaker bar
3. the 10mm nut holding the oil cooler is easy to get off and an absolute nightmare to get back on. Kept dropping out. Took me 45 mins to get aligned and sorted
4. bushes themselves are easy to fit to the bar, and the cover plate easy to fit into place (I used a small G clamp to ease the cover on top of the bush, so that the mounting studs would protrude sufficiently to give some bite when the nuts went back on)
I do hope I don't have to do this job again soon!
Parts cost £28 inc VAT for the pair of bushesDiscovery 3 tdv6 7 seat Buckingham Blue
Had it since new - sold Jun 17 after 12 years and 214,000 miles
11th Jul 2010 10:26 pm
disco_doozle
Member Since: 03 Nov 2007
Location: Bree
Posts: 447
OK, spacers, great solution....but I was thinking.....why in rubber?
If you would make this in inox or alu.....then the spacer would also remova play because it squizes the bushing together like the rubber ones....
But with metal ones, the stay rigid......
So why not make them of metal instead of rubber????
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: SALLES 33
Posts: 1014
hello everyone!
just to help if it can serve, there are now new silent-bocks here :http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/bdd/e...BAR%20BUSHMarco.
-D4 sdv6 HSE 2012 , high beam assist , surround cam, tv , and a lot of nice stuff..
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
I did this job at the weekend, so thanks DiscoMikey and Ridgebackmoor for the guidance.
KL wrote:
2. even with a short socket, the clearance for a breaker bar is still REALLY tight. I ended up with a stubby 3/8 extension (3" or so) and an ultra-narrow head breaker bar
I used Halfords Pro 3/8" set and as long as the penetrating oil has done it's stuff, the std 18mm socket, small extention and std wrench had enough grunt to start it off. As I was only adding spacers this time, I left the top socket on and it was able to be undone enough without taking the socket off (different story for replacing ARB Bush though)
KL wrote:
3. the 10mm nut holding the oil cooler is easy to get off and an absolute nightmare to get back on. Kept dropping out. Took me 45 mins to get aligned and sorted
I removed the plastic undertray beyond the steel one that youhave to remove. This tool about 2 minutes to remove and made the access to the fuel cooler soo much better. It also gives visibility of the auto gear selector linkage, so you can grease up or fix as required.
As a result, it took two minutes to undo and the cooler bolt and put it back on again. Much more room for this one bit of the job.
I also did these on the drive, on a pair of std car ramps. Including off road mode. Because of the length of the breaker bar and the torque wrench, I could have done with the slightly higher car ramps. another 1" would have been fine
But, the annoying knock has now gone. i test drove it along a farm lane near me that has plenty of potholes and corrugations i the road.
I do still have a knock, but I think that's the steering track rod ends and not as prevalent as the old knock was. Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
20th Mar 2011 11:45 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Some pics for above.....
Top ARB Nut
Click image to enlarge
I didn't bother removing the cross member as I could just about get enought access. If I was changing the ARB's instead of just inserting spacers, then I probably would next time.
Oil Cooler removal after removing plastic undertray
Click image to enlarge
Then from afar so you can see there is no platic undertray. access is really simple.
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
20th Mar 2011 12:11 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
Are there any torque settings for the bar clamps?2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
29th Mar 2011 7:41 pm
dangermousehouse
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Tewantin
Posts: 27
Just done this today as I had a bit of a knock from the front. Thanks Disco_Mikey, your help gave me the confidence (and motivation) to get my ass into gear.
Still got a bit of knock, though. Not sure what's causing it.
Just one question. Somebody mentioned that spacers were no longer required with the new type bush. I'm not sure if I had the new type or not, but I'm wondering if there's any problem adding the spacer to the new type?
Cheers
13th Jun 2011 9:03 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Never tried it, but I suspect you would probably struggle to get the new bush and the spacer in behind the clamp together...
Double check the bottom ball joints, track rod + ends, and also lower steering shaft if you still have a knock My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Tewantin
Posts: 27
Hi Disco_Mikey,
With fear of publicly looking a donkey, could you explain how to check the ball joints, track rod ends etc etc. (marine engines are more my line of spanner jockeying).
Cheers
14th Jun 2011 9:18 am
radders89
Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1051
As J@ames has already asked what are the torque settings for the ARB clamps? Doing mine tomorrow.... Wish me luck! MY15 D4 SDV6 HSE Corris Grey - Gone
MY05 D3 TDV6 SE Zambezi silver Auto Alpaca leather - Gone
MY02' Seat Leon 1.6s Metallic Black cloth trim with a hint of mould
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