Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
How to - Rear discs/pads and EPB adjust
Now, the pictures arent the greatest, but i will try and get better ones next time
A how to guide to replace rear discs and pads. Also, if your handbrake shoes/EPB is squealing, or needing adjusted, this is covered while the discs are off
If you are in any doubt, do not attempt this job. The last thing you want is brake failure when trying to stop a 3 ton car from 70mph... I, and Disco3.co.uk accept no responsibilty if you break something, or f*** it up royally. Again, if you are not 100% confident and sure about brakes, please do not attempt this
Tools you will need are:
Sturdy jack and axle stand
13mm spanner or ratchet and socket
15mm open end spanner
15mm double hex socket and ratchet
Torque wrench or breaker bar
Medium flat blade screwdriver
Brake pad spreader or large pipe grips
Wire brush and file
Start by jacking the car up and secure on axle stand and removing the wheel. Make sure the EPB is disengaged, and the vehicle is left in gear/park. Either leave the key in the ignition, or hold the EPB button down while taking the key out the ignition
Remove both 13mm bolts (circled) using the 15mm spanner to hold the slide pin, holding the caliper on
Click image to enlarge
Remove brake pads from carrier, and undo both 15 mm bolts (pictured)
Click image to enlarge
Next, remove the small black plastic dust cover from the front of the disc. It will be necessary to rotate the disc to locate the EPB shoe adjuster. On the N/S, it is at the bottom of the hub, and the O/S is at the top of the hub. Shine a torch through the hole and turn disc until you should see the adjuster. Sorry for the quality of this one...
Click image to enlarge
Using the flat screwdriver, lever the teeth of the adjuster round until the shoes have retracted fully, and there are no threads visible. There is a better pic here with the disc off
Click image to enlarge
Anyway, once the adjuster has been backed off fully, remove the Torx 50 screw holding the disc on. If the disc is to be re-used, a soft mallet may be needed to free the disc off the hub, and remove disc.
This step isnt always necessary, but i always do it. A squealing at low speed from the rear brakes is caused by the EPB shoes rubbing against the 3 raised points on the backplate. To cure this, apply some copper grease between the shoes and backplate. You will need to lever the shoes gently off the backplate to get the grease inbetween them. I use a failry large flat screwdriver to lever, and a medium one to get the grease in. If you get any grease on the friction surfaces, wipe clear before proceding
Click image to enlarge
Thats only one picture, but you get the idea hopefully
Refit brake disc and tighten up the T50 screw. Find the adjuster again, and tighten it all the way up until the discs locks up solid. Now, back the adjuster off between 8-12 "clicks" or until the disc rotates freely, with no binding. It may take a few attempts to get this right...
Find the carrier bracket you removed earlier, and remove the metal shims. Wire brush the worst of the build up of rust off, and file off the rest of the build up of crud. If you bought genuine pads, you will get new shims. If not, you will have to clean up the old ones.
Refit said carrier, and torque to correct spec (or FT) and fit shims. Try sliding the pads in the carrier before greasing. If they are tight, remove the shims and clean up shims and/or carrier as necessary. There will be some resistance, but as long as they move relatively freely, they should be fine. When you are happy, remove pads and apply copper grease
Click image to enlarge
Push caliper piston back fully, and refit caliper. Fit new 13mm bolts into caliper and torque to spec. Refit wheel.
Repeat for other side. Job done
Before you start the vehicle, make sure the brake pedal has been depressed several times until the pedal goes hard. Remember to brake gently for this first 250-500 miles until the pads have bedded in fully
Hopefully iv not forgot anything, but if I have, I will edit the post to include anything else i feel necessary
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 8th Nov 2009 9:21 am. Edited 2 times in total
24th Sep 2008 9:16 pm
Bill Wright
Member Since: 03 Nov 2007
Location: Glorious Devon
Posts: 3254
First Class Mike
It's my next job when I get home.
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D4 SDV6 SE Tech Kaikoura Stone MY15.
24th Sep 2008 9:23 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
That makes the instructions a lot easier
Personally, I'd like to see the EPB service disengage mode & the Fuse removed, particularly on Manual as otherwise it could engage either with your finger in the way or just over extend & you have to start again.
The picture that shows the T50 bolts could be updated to describe it as T50 bolt as well as the list of tools required.
The Torque of the bolts also requires I think 275 which is more than most 'std' torque bars.
Also, if you have the bedding in procedure for the EPB as well included, that would complete the job.
When adjusting the EPB, the instructions say to tighten between 40 and 70lb and then do the adjustment?
Sorry, not a criticism, just comments on making it a little clearer
You say make sure the EPB is disengaged, I take it you must leave the key in at least the accessory position ?
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
24th Sep 2008 9:37 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Bodsy wrote:
That makes the instructions a lot easier
Personally, I'd like to see the EPB service disengage mode & the Fuse removed, particularly on Manual as otherwise it could engage either with your finger in the way or just over extend & you have to start again.
The picture that shows the T50 bolts could be updated to describe it as T50 bolt as well as the list of tools required.
The Torque of the bolts also requires I think 275 which is more than most 'std' torque bars.
Also, if you have the bedding in procedure for the EPB as well included, that would complete the job.
When adjusting the EPB, the instructions say to tighten between 40 and 70lb and then do the adjustment?
Sorry, not a criticism, just comments on making it a little clearer
Hope that helps
To activate the EPB bedding in procedure:
Start engine
Press brake pedal on and off fully 3 times, and hold down on the 3rd time
While holding down the brake pedal, pull the EPB upwards 4 times, and downwards 3 times.
This should activate EPB bedding in
Also, i could be wrong, but the 275NM is for the front carrier
40-70 lb-ft before adjusting? Never done it once, never had a problem
shiny moose wrote:
You say make sure the EPB is disengaged, I take it you must leave the key in at least the accessory position ?
Either leave the key in the ignition, or hold the EPB button down while taking the key out the ignition, and remove the fuse My D3 Build Thread
Stripped and cleaned out the EPB shoe mechanism today, as it was full of mud and starting to squeal when I reversed. It's all back together now (after much effing and blinding ) and the adjuster is wound back 8 clicks on each side. But, I've not done anything with the allen screw:
"8. CAUTION: The parking brake adjuster must be rotated back EXACTLY 8 clicks. Failure to follow this instruction may result in damage to the parking brake system.
Rotate the adjuster back 8 clicks.
9. Loosen the wedge adjuster Allen screw half a turn.
10. Tap the brake disc lightly with a soft faced mallet, around the parking brake shoe location within the brake disc.
11. Tighten the wedge adjuster Allen screw to 6 Nm (5 lb.ft). "
That's not mentioned in DiscoMikeys's post, and as I'm not fitting new shoes (just cleaning the old ones) I'm not sure if it's necessary. Also, if I'm not fitting new shoes do I need to do the bedding in procedure? The bedding in procedure outlined above doesn't seem complete - what needs to be done once it's in the bedding in mode ?Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
14th Dec 2008 2:46 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1409
I did my rear brake discs / pads last week - I was going to change the EPB shoes but they were OK.
I cleaned out the EPB and reset the wedge adjuster as you described.
Once you've entered the bedding in procedure, the notes I had were dead simple (thanks to Bodsy ) - drive up to approx 19mph, apply the EPB, wait one minute and repeat nine more times. I did that and, touch wood, had no problems including off road today at Bala.I see no ships........
I took both wheels back off to do the allen screw thing, but due to the minimal shoe wear I don't think it made any difference. But i've not done the bed in thing - there used to be a detailed seciprion of it on here by TFC I'm sure , but I can't find it anywhere now.
So the EPB is applied whilst driving at 19 mph - for how long? And how is the bedding in mode cancelled - just turn off the ignition? Oh for a normal bloody handbrake Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
14th Dec 2008 10:00 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
EPB bedding cycle is has to be completed 10 times, drive the vehicle up to 29 mph and apply the park brake until the vehicle has completely stopped, ensure a sufficient cooling period between each operation, either 1 mile driving or 90 seconds (both from memory) between each bedding operation. Driving over 30 mph or cycling the ignition will cancel the bedding-in operation. The EPB bedding-in cycle will self cancel after ten successful operations
Many thanks for this thread, did my disks and pads on Sunday no problem, well apart from my helper who sprayed brake cleaner on the new disk before fitting and promptly set it on fire with the heat from the inspection lamp.
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thats EPB servicing off the income list then 
) and the adjuster is wound back 8 clicks on each side. But, I've not done anything with the allen screw:
?
