Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14089
Looks very interesting to see what’s involved in doing a D4 engine
19th Mar 2023 9:42 am
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 114
Yes, I'm following that story with great interest. I think I would have made some deepest investigations before to remove body, because that doesn't look like a snapped crankshaft. But it's also a way to "make more views"...
19th Mar 2023 2:26 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14089
Indeed with regards to having content that’s also interesting for people to watch each week
Plus of course having the post lift to make life considerably easier in lifting the body off , will be great to see how much more involved it is in comparison between the D3 Vs the D4
Think it also helps they enjoy doing things like this and relatable, must confess very jealous of the workshop Christian has
Might actually not watch for a month in order to then binge watch the entire series
19th Mar 2023 2:55 pm
NoExpert
Member Since: 09 Feb 2023
Location: Poznan
Posts: 4
I have the 3.0 TDV6 with a DPF, what’s the consensus for oil in it? I’m currently running Castrol Edge Pro 5w30 C1 which is what JLR specifies. Would it be better to move to C3? C1 is low SAPS (for the DPF) and min 2.9 HTHS whereas C3 is mid SAPS and min 3.5 HTHS. JLR says C2 is acceptable to use if C1 is not available which is mid SAPS and min 2.9 HTHS.
I’m currently in a cooler climate so I don’t feel the need to move to 5w40. Just looking for info on if I should stick with C1 or move to C3.
22nd Mar 2023 8:25 am
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 114
In my humble opinion, it's not a question of climate, but a question of mileage.
JLR preconisation is for an engine in new condition and to comply emission regulations.
With age, HTHS become more important than emissions or consumption.
22nd Mar 2023 8:56 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
NoExpert wrote:
what’s the consensus for oil in it?
and here we go again.. Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
22nd Mar 2023 9:29 am
Murtovaara
Member Since: 09 Jun 2021
Location: Sumiainen
Posts: 43
You could check the LR Time video where Christian
open up a little all these different oil specifications.
Check this carefully, good info.
If you check ACEA spec, C1 is already obsolete, but
don’t think that the newest spec oil is the best.
This is not so easy.
Here many are focusing only in the viscosity and debate
if it’s 5W30 or 5W40, look deeper and not just at the
viscosity.
22nd Mar 2023 10:01 am
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 14338
And we're back at the beginning. New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
22nd Mar 2023 10:02 am
tanters
Member Since: 24 Oct 2007
Location: Oireland
Posts: 4287
Shamrock wrote:
Yes, I'm following that story with great interest. I think I would have made some deepest investigations before to remove body, because that doesn't look like a snapped crankshaft. But it's also a way to "make more views"...
How cyncial of you A happy childhood ... is the worst possible preparation for life.
22nd Mar 2023 10:14 am
Murtovaara
Member Since: 09 Jun 2021
Location: Sumiainen
Posts: 43
Quote:
And we're back at the beginning.
Absolutely not, I thought I had a good basic understanding about motor oil,
but have now learned a lot.
What is still somewhat bothering me is why there is so much conflicting info
about specifications and service intervals. Cost must be here a major player.
22nd Mar 2023 10:15 am
tanters
Member Since: 24 Oct 2007
Location: Oireland
Posts: 4287
Moo wrote:
And we're back at the beginning.
Group buy on 5WDumbass tattoos?????A happy childhood ... is the worst possible preparation for life.
22nd Mar 2023 10:29 am
NoExpert
Member Since: 09 Feb 2023
Location: Poznan
Posts: 4
Murtovaara wrote:
You could check the LR Time video where Christian
open up a little all these different oil specifications.
Check this carefully, good info.
If you check ACEA spec, C1 is already obsolete, but
don’t think that the newest spec oil is the best.
This is not so easy.
Here many are focusing only in the viscosity and debate
if it’s 5W30 or 5W40, look deeper and not just at the
viscosity.
I watched that video, problem is a 2.7 without DPF doesn’t really correlate to a 3.0 with DPF.
ACEA C1 is obsolete from a new vehicle standpoint, but still made for the older vehicles that require it.
Guess I’ll just stick with ACEA C1 since JLR push the HTHS value as the important spec to follow. Even Citroen/Peugeot say C2 spec oil which is the same 2.9 HTHS as C1 and only comes in 0w30 or 5w30.
23rd Mar 2023 5:41 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20830
This popped up in a group chat of mine. No idea who wrote it
Quote:
Hi. I'm thinking about the oil question that keeps popping up, but wanted to run something you off the groups because I know what happens! I only, and will only, use 5w/30 as per specs. But you know that German guy who people hang on every word of, I think his '5w/40 higher oil pressure protects the crank bearings' theory is wrong. Think about this in a similar way to a heart, and blood pressure etc, it's well known that thicker blood increases blood pressure and puts the heart under more strain. This is because it's harder to pump the blood through the small arteries as it does flow so freely.
Putting this in the context of an engine, using an oil which is more viscous than necessary at operating temperature will show a higher oil pressure, but it will also flow less freely which means it won't flow through and protect the crank bearings as well as the less viscous oil.
Surely from this point of view 5w/30 is more protective of crank bearings than 5w/40.
Member Since: 09 Feb 2023
Location: Poznan
Posts: 4
Thanks for that @Disco_Mikey. That’s been my thoughts recently which is why C1 makes more sense to me. I’ll keep oil brands out of this
23rd Mar 2023 7:52 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20830
We only use a good quality 5W30 in our workshop, and we've never had an engine failure on a car that we have serviced regularly, with quite a few over 300k miles
A good quality 5W30 and OEM filters has never steered us wrong My D3 Build Thread
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