Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 309
Only certain years of switch pack from a Range Rover Sport will work.You should be looking for 2012 onwards and that is not 100% guaranteed. Others who have tried to fit a Sport heated steering wheel to a D4 can perhaps add which years worked for them.
2nd Dec 2020 7:25 pm
jjvd21
Member Since: 16 Jul 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1070
For the next person to remove the bumper and install the radar sensor pack - please take and post pictures. When I get around to it I will do the same. In looking at pictures of D4 bumpers and the radar sensor pack I'm struggling to see how it attaches.16 D4 Landmark
05 D3 HSE V8
THE original D4 spotter
2nd Dec 2020 7:42 pm
Dondiddy
Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 309
Click image to enlarge
This is how I fitted mine.There is an official bracket (LR062475 £86.90 +vat) but I did not use it.I bolted the radar bracket directly to the front crashbar by drilling and bolting.I had to space it out by 6mm to stop the wiring plug fouling on the crashbar and I also trimmed either end of the metal bracket so that it would fit behind the bumper as shown.
2nd Dec 2020 7:51 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Thanks for all the wisdom on this so far, this looks great. I've identified that my MY15 does have the fuse in position7 so I'm assuming my wiring is present!
Does anyone have any photos of how they cut and finished the bumper to allow the radar to 'see'?
TIA-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
2nd Dec 2020 8:33 pm
Dondiddy
Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 309
The bumper does need any cutting or modification as the radar unit "sees" through the bumper as it is. I had a soft nudge bar on mine which was an issue and had to cut the centre section out of it as I got a "radar unit blocked" message when running the calibration process but the bumper is unmodified and it works fine!
2nd Dec 2020 8:49 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
hgrimmett wrote:
Thanks for all the wisdom on this so far, this looks great. I've identified that my MY15 does have the fuse in position7 so I'm assuming my wiring is present!
Does anyone have any photos of how they cut and finished the bumper to allow the radar to 'see'?
TIA
Even better because I'm carp at detailed cutting!-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
2nd Dec 2020 8:51 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8244
RATA1 wrote:
Main dealer - £138 +VAT.
All in the thread.
Great instructions
What is included in the switch pack?-Does it include the Radio mode switch and CC switches, like a fool I sold one with my old D3 after I fitted a 2012 sport heated wheel with Working flappy paddles the adaptive switches where disconnected, in fact I may still have the pcb out of them
You don’t mention the ACC ECU, does that mean you are assuming one is fitted with no.7 fuse having a feed? - or am I missing something.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
2nd Dec 2020 10:57 pm
jjvd21
Member Since: 16 Jul 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1070
Once fitted, does the ACC function immediately start once you engage cruise control? Is it always on? Or can you use regular cruise control without the ACC function?16 D4 Landmark
05 D3 HSE V8
THE original D4 spotter
2nd Dec 2020 11:24 pm
RATA1
Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353
Switchpack includes all that you have now with the additional buttons on the side for ACC. You can fit it prior to the ACC cabling/radar fit/config as normal cruise and radio etc works as normal until coded other wise.
I am assuming the ACC is controlled by an existing ECUs as there is no mention of one needed for the D4.
Re function, once installed and programmed Dondiddy said it is on all the time as I asked the same question on the other thread about this (D3).In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.
2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2
Last edited by RATA1 on 3rd Dec 2020 10:51 am. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Dec 2020 12:10 am
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
The 'always on' is a problem for my style of driving, I have the same issue in my Tesla.
On my BMW with ACC, if you held down the SET button it would switch to dumb cruise, is that definitely NOT the case with the LR version?
Sorry to challenge what you've said but I'm just interested if there's a hidden solution -------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
3rd Dec 2020 7:18 am
Dondiddy
Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 309
The D4 radar contains the ecu as well so it`s the only part other than the switchpack (and wiring) you need.Cruise switches on and off and the speed is set using the same cruise buttons that you use at the moment.The difference is that when cruise is engaged a vehicle image appears in the dash display with the distance markers shown. You use the new buttons to increase/decrease the distance you want to keep from the vehicle in front.The cruise then works as normal until it locks onto a vehicle in front at which time a yellow cruise symbol appears on the dash.The car then stays at the set distance from that vehicle and will slow down or brake to keep that distance or will go back to the set speed if the gap opens up.
Cruise will drop out below 20mph with a warning for driver intervention if for example you come up behind traffic slowing down or stopping at a roundabout or traffic lights. There is not an option to have standard cruise only and to be honest I haven`t yet found an occasion I would have preferred the "blind" cruise that drove at a set speed regardless of what was happening with traffic ahead of it. The ACC is great but obviously the driver must always be aware of what's going on around them!
EDIT> I will try and see if you can switch off ACC cruise on my way to work this morning! Update! I can confirm that there is no option to have just normal cruise. The best you could do would be to set the gap distance to its smallest , that way you get as near to "dumb" cruise as you can! For me on the very odd occasion when I previously used normal cruise my finger was always hovering over the cancel button if a car pulled in front or the gap started to close. Now you don`t need to do that as the car decides for you based on the distance you have set it to maintain. You must remember however that the version fitted to the D4 is rather old tech now and more modern cars will probably have better systems and you must always be alert to what's happening in front but its a big step forward from normal cruise!
Last edited by Dondiddy on 3rd Dec 2020 9:14 am. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Dec 2020 7:44 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8244
Well the recent posts have convinced me to go ahead , thanks for the response, the next question is which radar ecu’s are suitable as there seems to be a variety available and a vast difference in price.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
3rd Dec 2020 8:12 am
Dondiddy
Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 309
You "should" be able to use DPLA9G768AD-BH329G768AD-CX239G768AD-FPLA-9G768-AC and perhaps even some of the Ford ones from around 2112 -2016 or so but I cannot be 100% sure on that. I can only advise what worked for me. As more people are doing the mod then more info is becoming available. DPLA9G768AD and FPLA9G768AC are effectively the same although FP is a slightly never version. 9G768 is the "family" of cruise radars with the other numbers relating to year/vehicle version /software etc. Whatever one you get it needs to be the slim version and not the earlier boxier version that requires a separate ECU to work and is for the D3. I chose DPLA9G768AD as that was the closest to model/year for my own vehicle but I needed to get it reflashed by GAP with the correct firmware. Beware there are some cheap ones on Ebay that have damaged mounting points and are effectively scrap as any hard impact will damage them internally.
3rd Dec 2020 9:35 am
LT
Member Since: 31 Dec 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 23866
On my 2017 FFRR there are three distance settings for the front of the vehicle to the rear of the vehicle i front. I can cancel the ACC by going to the lowest distance setting and then continuing to hold down the button.
The system will always default back to ACC and the longest distance.
It’s not perfect, but on balance I prefer it to basic CC.2006 D3 HSE (Original & still the best)-GONE
2010 D4 HSE (A bit bling)-GONE
2014 D4 HSE (Almost too bling)-GONE
2015 D4 HSE (A heated what?)-GONE
2016 D4 Landmark (Written Off)-GONE
2016 D4 Landmark (Surely the last!) PD1881 rims-GONE
2017 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography (now semi-retired)
3rd Dec 2020 9:37 am
grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6415
radar found
chasing extra bits for this to start
G
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
, thanks for the response, the next question is which radar ecu’s are suitable as there seems to be a variety available and a vast difference in price.
