It all depends on how brave you are & how deep your pocket!
The service schedule says change the belts etc. at 105k miles/7 years.
Many decide to spend the additional money to replace the oil pump assembly & bolts - c. 3 hours extra labour when doing all belts etc.
Get an estimate from your local experienced LR Indy.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
5th Aug 2016 4:30 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73123
ar1974 now you've asked the questions you've tempted fate. As I understand it you're right in the risk zone, is it worth the risk?
5th Aug 2016 4:48 pm
ar1972
Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 106
Hi
Thanks for the info, so is it advisable to do when the belts are done ? is that because of access or because of the belts in the way ? I've not long done the belts lol
Indeed, i'm in the zone with regards to mileage etc
5th Aug 2016 4:59 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
On a high mileage car I would also see benefit in having a new oil pump that would pick up pressure quicker at start up.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
5th Aug 2016 5:12 pm
Irwin
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Internet
Posts: 270
Its advisable to do with the timing belt as the belt has to be removed and engine timing set.
5th Aug 2016 5:22 pm
ar1972
Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 106
Pants !!! Well I wasn't advised to have it done by my local Indy......
Bite the bullet
5th Aug 2016 5:31 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73123
Just think to yourself "hey, ho. It's only money." Done that many times, it's just part of the joy/insanity of running a D3.
5th Aug 2016 5:41 pm
ar1972
Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 106
Yeah, agreed, I've had a D2 and a couple of freelanders.......And spent a few quid
5th Aug 2016 5:45 pm
Iguana
Member Since: 14 Oct 2013
Location: 'Sunny' Zomerset
Posts: 9424
I have a MY08 model and fall within the danger zone, belts were done last year and I made sure that the Oil pump was done as well.
I STRONGLY advice all to get it done if your Disco is in the 'dodgy' range of years....will add a few pounds to your bill but potentially save you having to replace the engine Iggy/Ieuan
Current LR =
2015 RR Sport Autobiography
&
1992 Land Rover Defender Camper
- Gone but not forgotten:
MY10 D4 GS
MY05 Disco 3 'S'
MY14 FL2 HSE manual in Blue
MY15 Disco 4 HSE Lux in Santorini Black
MY08 Disco 3 SE manual in Buck Blue
1960 Series 2 88" (No idea why I sold it!)
5th Aug 2016 5:45 pm
ar1972
Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 106
Perhaps I should sell mine and start over again
5th Aug 2016 5:46 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73123
Had mine for over 10 years, thought that several times. However they have a way of getting into your psyche and never got round to it.
As I like to say they can be the best car in the world, they can be the worst car in the world. Usually on the same day.
5th Aug 2016 5:50 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Had mine 11 years and tomorrow it is with Geoff and Flack for new belts. I will ask for new oil pump, not because I am in the vin failure range but because it seems like sensible maintenance whilst in that part of engine. Also hoping for faster pressure build at start up.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
6th Aug 2016 10:21 am
ar1972
Member Since: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 106
Ok,
So two further questions....
1. What is the VIN range of failures ?
2. How would I know if I have good / bad start up pressure as highlighted by the previous poster ?
Cheers
6th Aug 2016 1:11 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20853
Dogeggs2000 wrote:
Cheers Mikey, that would be very helpful indeed and provide some necessary pointers. Obviously I'm interested in any serviceable parts you might have for sale too, (unwarranted of course)!!
I'm trying to avoid lifting the body off if I can help it. I have a Bradbury 2 poster but I am just too busy with other engineering work (My job)! I think I could manage it, but with having never done it before, it will take me literally ages. Wish you lived closer as recovery to Dundee would cost a fortune. There doesn't seem to be a reasonable way out of this. The design of the oil pump casing is poor, all that repeated fatigue from a moving tensioner and point loading from the tensioner, hanging off one small piece of poorly cast monkey metal, is very disappointing in terms of a fully signed off design for mass production of such a marque! Any help is very much appreciated Mikey.
Cheers
Carl
Bent valves, broken rockers, and cam carrier bolts broken in the head. No broken cam carriers though, it may well be salvageable if yours is the same My D3 Build Thread
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