Ok, so I've been getting some weird fault lately where the Tight Tolerance light comes on (on the dash) and the dash screen says something about Normal Height only... I pull over stop/start the engine and all is fine. Well, this has happened 3 times in the last 3 weeks so I need to do something before I break down on a trail or something.
I've seen some kits online that do anything from Air Dryer rebuild, Air Dyer Replacement, Air Dryer Cover replacement, and piston ring replacement.
What's the best thing I can do for my aging compressor?
Also, what are the parts that I'll need to replace when removing the air compressor? Part #'s and quantities. I'll need clips that I understand rust and break when removing. Anything else I might need?
I also suspect a leak somewhere. I have not pulled any fuses to see how much the bags drop at night but this weekend I'm going to remove my rock slider so I can access my air compressor and reservoir for the first time in a year.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know many of you have been here before. This is my daily driver so I need to be precise with my repairs, but of course it's a Land Rover so NOTHING ever goes as planned.
Cheers.1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
Hi
I'll doing the same job shortly and I purchased following parts:
Dryer VUB 504700
Seal kit JPO500010
Relay YWB 500220
Compressor Bracket RQU500064 .
I bought them from Cellerdweller on this site.
And you can go for a AMK compressor. A more powerfull one as the Hitachi.
Hope that helps.
Regards
Charles
18th Jun 2014 3:43 am
Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3464
New captive nuts (RYH500170) are a must as the old ones will most likely disintegrate as soon as you remove the compressor bracket bolts. Take care when refitting the new captive nuts as they have a habit of pinging off into the depths of the chassis. They can be retrieved with a bit of patience but might be worth picking-up a couple of extras just in case.
Realistically, the only part worth replacing is the dryer unit. It's a bayonet fitting and locked in place with a screw which will also most likely have corroded.
The exhaust valve is difficult to get to due to the odd sized hex bolt on the cylinder head. It's neither 16mm nor 17mm IIRC and rounds easier than a round thing from Roundsville. If it aint broke, don't try to fix it. Start with your dryer and go from there.
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18th Jun 2014 7:20 am
Kingmav66
Member Since: 20 Jul 2010
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1349
If it's your daily drive, then TBH I would fit a new AMK compressor and refurb the Hitatchi at your leisure
Due to having Rover Specialties rock sliders the AMK isn't an option as it will cause more work, cost, and aggravation as it will not fit without major mods to the mounting bracket and/or the sliders.
Thanks for the part numbers and tips on getting extra clips (no harm with spare parts). Not looking forward to the work. 1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
Does anyone know if after replacing the Relay with YWB 500220 will I also need to upgrade my software for the air compressor (remember it's Hitachi, Not AMK)
Should be nearly a new compressor after replacing all of these parts, all for just under $300 and lots of my time.1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
You are just rebuilding the existing unit; the AMK operates a bit differently apparently than the Hitachi, (something to do with high temperature limits), hence the advisability of doing the AMK software update upon installation of the AMK. The temperature limit change is also why it appears that one can install the AMK and it seems to work OK without the update.
Back about April 2010, there was a update, (Technical Service Bulletin LTB00270), re the Hitachi software. While vague, the shutoff pressure was reduced from about 230 psig to about 210 psig, (14 bar). That was basically the LR solution to extending the life of the Hitachi, fairly smart really as that last 30 psi was tougher to get than the first 200 psi and generated the most heat as well. The only effect was to perhaps slow down the rate of lift of our 3's and to drag out the lifting time of the front end a bit relative to the rear.
I think rebuilding is good economics myself, plus the AMK is not really a major improvement over the Hitachi.
Replacing the relay is a good idea however. I think there is something LR is not telling us, other than just do it. Also you can keep the old relay as a spare as it still does work.
Also back in July of 2006, there was an overall software upgrade, (SB034-SB036) related to serial numbers 5A000259 to 6A390949 including the air system.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st Jun 2014 5:00 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
DiscoNels wrote:
Due to having Rover Specialties rock sliders the AMK isn't an option as it will cause more work, cost, and aggravation as it will not fit without major mods to the mounting bracket and/or the sliders.
Didn't know that that the dimensions were so different? Does the newer compressor have a different cover?Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
The bracket that holds the AMK to the frame is different for starters but included in the kit.
The piping layout is a bit different as well - kit includes what you need to adapt the old piping to the new AMK.
Yes, the kit also includes new upper and lower compressor plastic half's.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
I'm hoping that after this weekend, if I'm successful when I rebuilt my air compressor, that all of the faults posted below will not come back again.
I removed my left rock slider so I have access to the air compressor and have been driving around town with only one slider (looks plain w/o slider) and hit the wash today to get all of the mud off the compressor and air valves.
I used my Nanocom today to read the faults in the ride level ECU and here is what I found:
FAULT 1 OF 18
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:C1A37
Front cross-link valve
(NOT TESTED DTC)
Error codes: with or without a working compressor installed?
The list of error codes suggests either the compressor is not there or not working.
I suppose it is both.
The way I employ my Nanocom Evolution is to first erase/clear all the codes and then after a startup or operation of the vehicle in some manner, rescan for codes.
When I first got my Evo, I found that there were some error codes that would not erase, or if I cleared them, always returned. I eventually figured out that they were for features and parts that did not exist on my 3 but the CCF, (Car Configuration File), showed the bits to be included. When I altered the CCF to exclude th nonexistent features, then the error codes ceased to reappear on my Evo. With enough fiddling about over time, I got the error codes to all clear.
Now when I see an error code, it may still be false, but at least it is not a constant recurring code and worth taking note of.
The faults that have the added message "NOT TESTED DTC, PERMANENT", those are of a different variety and may not in fact be indicative of true faults. They are instead an indication of a test that did not take place for some reason - ie: no compressor to test or no air in the system.
Just the same, after installation of the compressor and clearing of all fault messages, upon rescan, you may not see any of them again - hopefully.
If you do not clear them initially, they then will show but with time, will most likely work their way out of the system on their own. This is why red or yellow warning lights and nasty messages often quit showing for no apparent reason after a time.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Well I'm screwed! Just attempted to remove the compressor and can't get the rear air hoses off. I actually broke the lower voss connector and still couldn't get it out. Not only that but one of the bolts that hold the bracket to the frame just sits and spins and will need to be cut off (I could have done this myself but since I didn't get anywhere with the air hoses I just say feck it!)
So, I now have to wait until Monday to take my truck into the shop and have them remove it so I can rebuild it. 1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
I am guessing but I assume the bolt that is turning is one of the M8 x 25 ones marked as HS1 on the drawing. If so, it threads into a metal spring type clip marked HN1 that clips to a rectangular hole in the frame. Those clips are always a bit of a problem and you will also need three new ones as well.
In other words, knowing what they are you can perhaps pry the bolt out or do whatever it takes to break the clip. They are most likely badly rusted and hence brittle and may break and hence release the bolt if you are lucky. The dealer may have the spring clips in stock as they really are a consumable.
As to the air line, some cut the plastic air line in the middle so to speak and then find a suitable hose to hose brass connector and repair the air line that way. The problem is the air line is metric, hence it can be difficult to find an OK sized slip in repair connector. In Europe, it is no problem but in the New World, it is.
Nothing on a Land Rover is easy.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Yes the bolt in question is the HS1 you're talking about. I have already got 3 replacement bolts and 3 metal spring type clips marked HN1 as I knew these would be problematic.
I haven't got a backup plan for cutting the air hose (no repair method) so I'm not prepared to do that. I would however like to get the air hoses off and then cut the bolt off. Who knows, maybe the other bolts will do the same thing (I only turned the one so far).
I would love to get that compressor rebuilt before going to the shop on Monday to get the broken voss connector fixed/replaced.
Land Rovers!!!!! 1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
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