Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
If you are still trying to get the other rear pipe out of the compressor, take a look at my experience. http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic113456.html
Good luck.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
Replacing that Voss connector is going to be a problem I figure. I spent quite a bit of time researching Voss connectors a couple of years back and some of what I determined in on files on the link below.
In Europe, finding a Voss connector or alternative not too difficult - the Mann type autobahn tractor repair shops carry Voss connectors, but over here, it can be a real problem. Alternatives are hard to find as being metric, they are even more difficult to source.
In the mean time, you might squirt some thread unlock into the connectors as the juice might work overnight and allow for some movement as the connectors you are dealing with are basically push to release.
The link below has some of the material I found regarding the various types of Voss connectors.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=38022005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
By some miracle I was able to finally remove both air hoses, but the one connector is toast. I may just let the shop order/fix that. Another miracle is the bottom bolt that was just spinning decided to just pull straight out. So, I got the compressor removed!
Now, as I was removing the 3 screw bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket I snapped the little bolt (part of it remains in the bracket and I may be able to remove it with a vise grip), and then somehow on my kitchen counter one of the 2 longer bolts decided to go missing, searched and searched but it's just gone.
Not sure what I'm going to about about the bolts but my rebuild continues. I guess I can always buy a new bracket (I know of one that comes with all the rubber shocks and hardware for cheap).
Thanks for your help and support thus far.1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
19th Jul 2014 10:46 pm
AndyGreen
Member Since: 18 Jul 2007
Location: Tramore
Posts: 97
sounds like one of those jobs you wish you never started (like when I decided to re plumb by bathroom a couple of years ago..).
Just trying to get the info together to see what to attempt with the compressor - I read that you can do at least some of the dryer refurb with it in situ - might be easier!
I assume the broken bolts are the HS3 and HS4 bolts. I guess they can be ordered if you cannot source something metric similar locally - they will not be like the Voss connector.
Re the broken Voss connector, I hope the shop you are taking the compressor to has some old removed compressors sitting around. If so, one of them could be the parts source for the Voss. If they can order a new connector, even the better, but that may not be so certain.
Regardless, it sounds like you are making progress and your update is appreciated. I guess tomorrow you can make like you are cleaning the kitchen and just maybe that missing bolt will reappear.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
20th Jul 2014 1:25 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
DiscoNels wrote:
Now, as I was removing the 3 screw bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket I snapped the little bolt (part of it remains in the bracket and I may be able to remove it with a vise grip), and then somehow on my kitchen counter one of the 2 longer bolts decided to go missing, searched and searched but it's just gone.
I had the same thing happen to mine. That small bolt and rubber bush take up the lateral movement, the other two take the real weight and vibration. I improvised with bathroom silicone and all seems to be ok. See my earlier post for picture or my library. Good luck with search for long bolt.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
Update: So, I got my broken collet ordered today (I called it a voss connector, maybe by mistake) but this is what I'm talking about. Part No.: NTC9822
It's about $6 from the local stealer and will have it tomorrow. I've got the replacement bolts that broke or went missing for the mounting bracket ordered too and should have them Wednesday or Thursday.
The air compressor rebuild went very well (at least I didn't snap any more bolts). Here's what I did for the rebuild: utilizing pages 5 - 8 on this bulletin http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...rogram.pdf for guidance.
1) VUB504700 New air dryer unit
2) Piston ring kit from X8R Ltd on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-Discove...4ad2ad0d8d
3) JPO500010 Compressor kit (this contains rubber seals, springs, and new bolts)
4) RYH500170 (3) captive nuts to mount the bracket to the frame. These disintegrate due to corrosion so this is a must have
5) FS108256 (3) Bolts that hold bracket to frame.
6) YWB500220 Relay Switch
I will have all of the work completed by the end of the week depending on shipping of needed parts, weather, and my schedule.
A benefit of having the relay switch removed for the last couple of days is that the vehicle doesn't self level so I finally got the opportunity to see which corner has been dragging down my height overnight. The culprit seems to be the rear with the Left Rear dropping more than the Right. My truck is parked in the lot in extended mode with the front holding but the rear is completely down to the stops now. Looks like my truck is ready for lift off to the moon or something. Somewhat embarrassing.
There was lots of white powder from the broken down desiccant in the inlet/outlet where the hoses go into the compressor so, once the compressor is installed and good then my next project will be to possibly rebuild the rear air valve block assembly. Hopefully it's the valve block and not a leaky shock.
It's been a roller coaster of emotion but all in all, it's been a good learning experience. Rovers! Never a simple task to do anything!1998 Discovery LSE - Gold, 249,000+ miles, completely stock
2007 Range Rover SC - White, 63,000 mi
2006 Discovery 3 HSE - Locking E-Diff, Rover Specialties rock sliders, 275/65/18 Cooper STT PRO, LLAMS suspension controller, LR Expedition Roof Rack. Asfir Rear Diff, Tactical 4x4 (Gas Tank Skid, Rear Bumper, and Front Bumper w/12K winch), Traxide Split Charge System, Overland Solar + Lensun Solar panels
BBS Nanocom Evolution and Gap Diagnostics IID BT Tool
So that Collet thing is a Land Rover part. I really appreciate that information; I had assumed it is some variation of a Voss product and that stuff is difficult to source.
Much appreciated.
As to rebuilding the block valves, guys have done it as they unsnap and replacement of the O rings is about all that is needed as the solenoids probably work OK, the seals just leak due to the desiccant.
The reality is the rear is so difficult to get at that one is probably best to purchase a new one and install it immediately rather than having to come back later. As such, the main problem would be in removing the air lines and reconnecting the electrical connector. One guy in Australia did not quite get the connector clicked in properly as it is so hard to access. He then had a terrible time tracking down the problem as the connection looked good.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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