Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2812
Jaws
I'm very close to you - in Clanfield - but unfortunately not at home until the weekend.
Feel free to arrange to pop up and look at my set-up.
It's all still sat in the garage as I've not fixed it to the boat trailer yet so you could try it on your D3.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
15th Jan 2014 12:34 pm
jaws_172
Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 135
That would be awesome Nasher, dropped you a pm
15th Jan 2014 8:53 pm
Ent
Member Since: 12 Oct 2007
Location: In the cack
Posts: 6488
I'm interestedClub Exped trailer
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so am i Home of RLD Hidden winch mounts Spare wheel Locks Trailer Body Fabrication ray@rld-tech.co.uk D3/4 sump plates MY 14 sump plates and the Discovery Sport wheel protectors Discovery 5 wheel locks
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12th Apr 2014 5:13 pm
romadog2004
Member Since: 07 Nov 2010
Location: Powys
Posts: 290
IID Pro MV License - D3, D4 & RRS - Enabling, Updates, D4 & RRS Timed / Remote Climate, D4 Bluetooth fitting
PM me for details
Owner of the original "Beanie" grille
D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
12th Apr 2014 8:39 pm
jaws_172
Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 135
Those of you that have a soldering iron, if you check out my forum gallery you'll find the method I used to make such the device being offered above. Will take you an afternoon to make once you have all the parts.
12th Apr 2014 9:16 pm
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
Looks a good job Jaws. It's a bit difficult to see the exact wiring layout from your photos. Any chance of you producing a wiring diagram and details of the relay and diode specs?
Cheers
18th Apr 2014 2:14 pm
jaws_172
Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 135
I will knock something up, try for this weekend or during the week
18th Apr 2014 4:19 pm
jaws_172
Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 135
All done, made it as simple to understand as possible. Should be readable Any questions just let me know.
Click image to enlarge
18th Apr 2014 6:40 pm
Tufty
Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 481
Jaws172, you've forgot to show the connection from the positive side of the relay coil to the com's of the relay...
18th Apr 2014 7:05 pm
jaws_172
Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 135
No no I hadn't forgotten... Erm it was a test
Score the pcb board after the coil and again before the NO connection (the last set) should do the trick. *scratches grey cells*
Wouldn't advise coping my pcb board as I was given the wrong com's diagram to begin with. I also ran my positive back down the pcb board to make my wiring easier to run in the box. You could just bridge them and have them run out the other side as in the diagram, personal choice and setup.
18th Apr 2014 7:27 pm
Disco daz
Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 17
Just digging around for information on this problem.
Why couldn't just wiring a 21w (or higher) bulb be wired inline with the LEDs? the trailer would read the required resistance therefore putting it into trailer mode.
I've tested it with a 10w bulb and it didn't work but now I've read it requires a high watt bulb.
28th Sep 2014 7:46 pm
jaws_172
Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Fareham
Posts: 135
The light will solve the car end but not the trailer end of the circuit. The LED lights will still pick up the cambus signals. You need the resistance and the switch.
28th Sep 2014 7:51 pm
Disco daz
Member Since: 05 Sep 2013
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 17
So I'm half right that the bulb will put the car into trailer mode.
But the indicators will still pulse?
I'd rather not use the resistors because of the heat generated and where they will be located.
I can get to the wiring at the back of the LEDs. I have two wires, blue and white. I'm assuming I'd use a 4 connection relay, fit the blue and white wires to the connections that join, the bridge off the wire that becomes live to operate the relay?
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Law of Mechanical Repair:
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