Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10374
I’d change an early 2008 oil pump
18th Oct 2021 7:47 pm
MorganD379
Member Since: 29 Sep 2016
Location: SA62 3PP
Posts: 425
I have a 08 and changed the lot when having the belts done this year.
As it happens the seal on the oil pump was on the way out, but the pump was the stronger design. It was more my piece of mind than anything.
102k on the clock and had it a litte over 6 years and intend on keeping it as long as I can... Love it.
18th Oct 2021 7:47 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4677
Captain Crosscheck wrote:
I'm about to change the belts on my new (to me) 08-model. It's driven 240k kms, and the pump hasn't been changed, according to the previous owner. Am I on double overtime, or are 08-models not affected? It's an early 08-model
With the mileage your car has covered I'd consider it to be end of life for that oil pump. Change it, especially if the oil light is slow to extinguish, even if it isn't slow change it anyway!
Genuine oil pump and crank seal.
Remember a seemingly perfectly operating pump (old style) can shatter once the loading of a new belt and tensioner is placed upon it.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Oct 2021 8:50 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 310
Was out driving just now, that oil light seems to take forever to go out now, having read the comments
I'll change the lot. Belts, oil pump, water pump, idlers and tensioners.
She's an expensive one, this ageing grey girl, but she's great fun!
18th Oct 2021 9:19 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4677
Does the timing chain rattle badly on start up?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Oct 2021 9:37 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 310
Can't say I've noticed, but on the other hand I haven't listened either. Will I hear it from the drivers seat when I start the car, or would I need to be on the outside?
18th Oct 2021 9:45 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4677
If you focus you can hear them from the drivers seat and it will fall silent when the oil light goes out. I'm asking because the chains can snap, and you're just about at the ideal mileage for replacing them, but it is no small amount of extra work!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Oct 2021 10:03 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 310
Checked this morning, couldn't hear any noises. Also, oil light came on almost right away, even with outside temp being 0 deg C (and sleet in the air). So not too worried about the pump, but it'll be replaced shortly. Figure the timing chains will get done some time next spring, looks like it's quite a job..
19th Oct 2021 8:32 am
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 310
So, oil pump and belts were replaced in September. Car had now done 246k kms, and today I heard the rattle from the chains for the first time (although it's probably been there for some time).
I don't know enough to tell how much or how badly, but I could clearly hear it with the door open on startup. Guessing this means they need replacing as well. Has anyone done a write up on this job? I wasn't able to find one on here, and a good guide would come in real handy for this job, as it looks quite intimidating. Cam belt was an ok job, but without the guides on here I would never have had the b@lls to tackle it myself.
20th Apr 2022 4:49 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10374
They will rattle before the oil light goes off.
It’s a little more time than a cambelt, but not difficult.
Do drivers RHD first.
Injectors out (be careful with flexi hose and connectors and clips that ping off)
Fuel rail off.
Remove fuel rail bracket
Lift intake Y piece upwards and out
Loosen front cam belt cover, as there is a bolt behind that.
Cam Cover can now be unbolted and removed.
Swap out tensioner. Remove its Grande pin
I assume you don’t need to raise a cam
You need new cam cover gaskets and I would recommend genuine
20th Apr 2022 7:03 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 310
Will I be using the timing pins to hold the cams? Or will the timing not be disturbed if I manage to be careful? I've for the timing pins, so that's no problem. The cam belt IMO wasn't difficult, just time consuming, as I tend to take my time with things I'm doing for the first time. Worst part was the starter!
20th Apr 2022 8:34 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10374
Hopefully won’t need timing pins.
The only doubt in my mind is whether its easy to just swap the tensioner out or whether you need some slack on the chain.
If you needed to, you would remove one cam.
Hopefully one that isn’t connected to the belt at the front and isn’t driving anything at the back (can’t remember the exact configuration on these )
But first you would cable tie the chain to the sprockets, so it remained timed
20th Apr 2022 9:35 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Captain Crosscheck wrote:
So, oil pump and belts were replaced in September. Car had now done 246k kms, and today I heard the rattle from the chains for the first time (although it's probably been there for some time).
I don't know enough to tell how much or how badly, but I could clearly hear it with the door open on startup. Guessing this means they need replacing as well. Has anyone done a write up on this job? I wasn't able to find one on here, and a good guide would come in real handy for this job, as it looks quite intimidating. Cam belt was an ok job, but without the guides on here I would never have had the b@lls to tackle it myself.
Not a bad job, getting cam cover to break free of the head took some doing, some of the cover back bolts are as fiddly as can be.
Its the tensioner that gives up before the chain, and then it is only really the spring in the tensioner that holds tension until oil pressure builds oil pressure.
110 for tensioner/chain, few quid for seals, rocker cover gasket, injector washers, leak off spring clips.
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