Lenny1974
Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Bristol
Posts: 70
  
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I'm based in Bristol, so bit of a distance, I am sure I will be able to either tackle myself or get someone local to do the job. Thanks for advice.
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 21st May 2020 12:29 pm |
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lkrt1u50
Member Since: 20 Jun 2021
Location: Gone
Posts: 10
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Please can someone advise the part numbers of the special tools for this job, I think we need one to remove the viscous fan and the tools to hold the camshaft and crankshaft in place.
Are there any other special tools needed?
thanks in advance
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| 20th Jun 2021 7:27 am |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
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You will need the following.
Viscous fan spanners (various makes are availible)
Locking pin set ( various makes are avalible, the cheap ones may need to be filled down to allow the outer part to fit into the hole in the block)
A E12 female torxs socket (i will need to check the size as this is just from the top of my head)
A 1/2" drive 21mm and 13mm sockets
A 1/2" drive torque wrench capable of doing 45nm (idler pulley bolts) and 100nm (crank bolt stage 1)
A 1/2" knuckle bar to undo crank bolt and also tighten to stage 2 a further 90 degrees past stage 1
A 3/8" drive torque wrench capable of doing 10nm (oil pump housing) and 24 nm (belt tensioner bolt and cam sprocket out bolts)
A 3/8" socket set, one with six sided sockets would be best to save rounding bolt heads
A large selection of swear words
Hearing protection for anybody standing nearby due to the swear words Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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| 20th Jun 2021 10:39 am |
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Devon Z
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Brixham Devon
Posts: 251
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The E12 socket caught me out, never come across them before so didn’t have any had to go to two local Halfords to find one😬 Steve
*2005 RR Sport 2.7tdv6 HSE. Current project.
*98 Volvo V70R FWD, owned 14 years, future project.
*99 BMW Z3 30k miles owned from new.
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| 20th Jun 2021 5:59 pm |
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lkrt1u50
Member Since: 20 Jun 2021
Location: Gone
Posts: 10
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thank you for this info
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| 21st Jun 2021 7:53 pm |
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Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
 
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I'm right in the middle of changing the oil pump now. The starter is loose, but I managed to pop the small, plastic grommet for the crank locking tool IN THROUGH the hole, and now it seems to have disappeared down into a recess at the very bottom of the flywheel housing 
Is this going to cause havoc if left where it is? D@mned if I'm able to fish it back up again... I'm guessing (and hoping) that it has become lodged so it won't move, and if it does, that the flywheel will grind it to pieces in no time. It is afterall quite soft.
Advise/opinions please?
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| 19th Nov 2021 2:12 pm |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
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I dont think it will hurt in there.
I have dropped a torque coverter bolt down there when refitting an engine and it was a real pain to get out again. Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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| 19th Nov 2021 2:15 pm |
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Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
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Some peace of mind there at least. Thanks mate.
Another Q: how far in should the locking pins for the cams go? I'm getting about 5 cm on the one side, and three on the other. Guessing the last one will go fully in once the belt is removed?
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| 19th Nov 2021 3:41 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2346
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I dropped a rubber seal into the timing chain of my sons car, ( it was a new seal, and it was needed to refit the cam cover) ……got it out using a piece of wire with a dab of rtv sealant on the end. Yes, it may cause no harm, but wouldn’t you prefer to get this thing out if you can ? D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 19th Nov 2021 3:56 pm |
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Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
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Would definately prefer to get it out, but considering where it's placed it'll most likely be left alone. I've just about managed to move the starter, and to remove the grommet I'll have to either remove the starter completely (which is a real pain, and since the oil pump is fitted also is unnecessary) or grow some new joints in my fingers. 
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| 19th Nov 2021 6:48 pm |
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pasty man
Member Since: 28 Nov 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 4
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Ive just bought a 2008 with full service history, no mention of cam belt change so I guess at 126,000 I should get them done asap ?
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| 30th Nov 2021 7:42 am |
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ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 534
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Captain Crosscheck wrote:Some peace of mind there at least. Thanks mate.
Another Q: how far in should the locking pins for the cams go? I'm getting about 5 cm on the one side, and three on the other. Guessing the last one will go fully in once the belt is removed?
No guarantee that your pins are in properly but the 2 cam wheels are of different thicknesses and so when the pins are in the engine block an equal amount the lengths of timing pin exposed will differ.
Edit. Outdated reply because you have probably completed the job but left in case anybody else has the same question.
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| 30th Nov 2021 11:33 pm |
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Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
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@ronald.soak thanks for the reply. I ended up having to move the belt one tooth on one of the cams. All three pins slid in nicely, and now the engine purrs like a kitten 
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| 1st Dec 2021 6:55 am |
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