Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Tony, mine is def in the 7a range and I've spoken to at least three others with the same range to help them get LR to cough up....
That comment was Steve Normans specific experience of the failures he had worked on at t hat moment in time.
I know you're trying for the positive outlook, but the fact is, most 7a have been fine, but a small percentage have failed catastrophically... Can you afford for the sake of a few hundred quid to take the risk. I certainly wouldn't if I had known then what I know now....Bodsys Brake Bible
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
DiscoM is right, there is no rhyme or reason why exactly some fail in this chassis range. I have had some cars in both 7a and 8a chassis ranges fail, but others have been perfectly fine.
It is obvious what has been beefed up on thoses suspect pumps, with extra webbing, so why take the risk? If it was my own vehicle in the 7 or 8a range, I would be renewing the belt and oil pump as soon as I bought it, regardless of mileage, I just wouldn't want to take the risk of trashing a perfectly good engine. The two I originally wrote about were 55,000 miles ish when failed.
All the 05 and 06 chassis ranges don't seem to be affected, and I have done many belt changes of those.
I suspect the only reason they have superceeded those pumps is just to tidy the part numbers up to a common supply now they have beefed them up.
Regards
Steve
29th Sep 2013 2:34 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I strongly agree with the above!
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 05 Mar 2013
Location: VERSAILLES
Posts: 9
Hy! I have the chance to have in hand the official Ford Motor Company drawing of the OIL PUMP ASSY
last update in 20070223 (ref 4R8Q-6600-AE) mention "added ribs on tensioner boss"
will change the OIL PUMP ASSY in few week on my 07MY with LR013487 at the same time of my timing belt ... become to be urgent, milage is exceeded
also will look at Peugeot (my company) the latest after market part number
ex LR 110 SW TD4, new D3 SE SEVEN Automatic
1st Oct 2013 2:55 pm
Bumper
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Devon
Posts: 39
Reading through this I wonder whether I should be worried.
Mine is MY08. Chassis 8A in the bracket of reported failures I gather. I have 70,000 on the clock and I wasn't planing to change my belts as yet.
What do people reckon? Hold out til 105K or age limit or get the belts and casing done now as a preventative measure?
PS - Warranty Direct cover in place.
30th Nov 2013 7:19 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Make sure your warranty direct cover specifically covers CASINGS.
If it does, you should be OK. If not, have it changed early My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Devon
Posts: 39
Oil pump casing
Thanks for the reply Mikey.
My cover says - 'Casings are covered providing they have been damaged as a direct result of the covered failure failure of an insured part'. All a bit devil in the detail for me!
Whadyathink?!
30th Nov 2013 7:54 pm
disco5
Member Since: 23 Dec 2012
Location: birmingham
Posts: 1088
I think my self as having a casing failure after cam belt change .
Not knowing there was a problem before with casings in my vin range i would have changed it rather than it shearing off and wrecking my engine.....knowledge theres a problem leaves it up to the individual what to do ,to change sooner rather than the latter ????
But the you have warranty so not really a problem would be more of a hassle and inconvience without your motor .
Only my opinion
30th Nov 2013 8:14 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
gents,
would like to replace my oil pump when doing the timing belt and do not know if i really need the flywheel locking tool 303-1123 or if the tool 303-1117 is strong enough to deal with the massive moment during tightening the crankshaft-nut!?
dont want to shear off the pin from the tool 303-1117!
for the front seal, are these nice tools also required!? guess the seal installer (303-1121) would ne helpfull, but the others???
The tool is fine for locking and tightening the crank bolt, as for the seal tools you don't really need them but it does help, the problem is getting hold of them I have had them on order for two months now and still not got any news on when they will come..
If your careful you can manage without, I have done half a dozen casings now and have had two seals leak after. But I think its the seals they seem to get very hard and stiff if they have been laying around for some time..
Flack
1st Dec 2013 10:51 am
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
Flack,
the question is if i really need this locking tool or if the tool for the timing belt change (303-1117) is also strong enough, as i dont want to buy tools if they are not really necessary!!
you mean the front seal is hard to get!?
by the way, why does the seal need to get installed with the casing already mounted?
thx, martin
1st Dec 2013 10:57 am
stchris
Member Since: 13 Oct 2013
Location: Warwick
Posts: 335
I've just put a new oil pump on mine and trying to see another way to lock the crank while tightening the crank bolt, the engine is on a stand at the moment so when I've finished my tea and toast it's back out to the garage.
I didn't bother with the tool for the seal, i just left it on a radiator for a while to warm up and a slight application of vaseline to the pulley.(time will tell)!
I'm also not convinced the crank locking tool (the timing one) would survive tightening the crank pulley
Guys the timing locking tool is fine for tightening up the crank bolt, it is what I use its fine..
@eljot no the seal is easy to get its just it seems to harden if left to long before you fit it. You have to fit the seal after the casing as you need the white plastic spacer to align the horse shoe drive that locates on the crank that drives the pump.
@stchris It does help if you warm it up...
Flack
1st Dec 2013 12:52 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
My own opinion is I'd rather use the correct locking tool, but then I do have all the special tools for the job.
A word of warning Topix does state that no oil or lubricant should be used on the front seal as it is specially coated and can cause failure. Not sure what is special... It looks dry to me.
You can't fit the seal until after as the plastic tool for aligning the crank to oil pump drive needs to be located as it's fitted, then the seal can go in.
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