Hi All,
My MY07 D3 has had the steering angle sensor drifting out of alignment for several months.
Like many others I discovered it is the plastic coupling on the steering shaft moving.
Test posted elsewhere is to prod the lugs which extend from the sensor underside, if they rotate its loose on the shaft.
The plastic coupling seemed to move for and aft with slight side play, so I was reluctant to fix it rigidly with epoxy etc.
I fixed mine by bonding 2 dense foam rubber pads between the lugs and the steering UJ C on the steering upper shaft. I cleaned all parts then tested the pads for size. Then wiped cyano kicker on the surfaces with a small rag.
Bonded the pads with Liquid Weld a flexible cyano for most materials.
The grey pads are visible in the picture.
I have also got two questions.
Is the sensor potentiometer or magneto resistive. I have seen pictures on the forum showing wipers, but the maintenance manual says it is a magneto resistive sensor using rotating magnets.
Also is there an index for fitting at the straight ahead position, if it does have wipers I would not like the overlap region from start to end near the straight ahead position.
Regards
Bob
8th Dec 2015 2:52 pm
gullible
Member Since: 07 Nov 2015
Location: ACT
Posts: 4
Thanks for the photo. I have the same problem but I do not understand which parts are meant to be restrained from moving and which bits we want to move.
Also, can you let me know the orientation of the phone is the UV joint at the bottom of the photo at the bottom of the shaft in the car?
Do you have any tips on removing the trim to get at the shaft.
I'm in Australia and it is not a common fault (lest not yet). None of the local dealers or independents have had to fix one before so they do not know what I'm talking about.
11th Dec 2015 7:34 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Bob M wrote:
I have also got two questions.
Is the sensor potentiometer or magneto resistive. I have seen pictures on the forum showing wipers, but the maintenance manual says it is a magneto resistive sensor using rotating magnets.
Also is there an index for fitting at the straight ahead position, if it does have wipers I would not like the overlap region from start to end near the straight ahead position.
Regards
Bob
I've not opened one but from the signal output it looks like a double AMR rather than wipers.
I would never attempt a repair of one though as it is one of the few parts on the D3 / D4 that can try to kill you.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Hi Gullible and Robbie,
Thanks for the reply Robbie, point taken. I was not thinking of trying to fix it. I was confused that the service manual says its magnetostrictive, but another post shows a broken wiper as found in potentiometers.
If it is a pot the crossover should be in a position not crossed by general straight line steering corrections. Even servo pots designed to crossover have increased wear across the gap as the wiper goes from the end back to the start.
Gullible,
The photo is taken looking up vertically from the brake pedal pad.
The underside trim is removed, the one you would kick if you brought your foot up from the pedals.
The view is of the underside of the steering angle sensor. The horizontal forged U yoke of the universal coupling has grey foam pads visible either side bonded to the yellow tabs. This yoke is on the end of the upper steering shaft. The other yoke is visible end on with a bearing cap visible in the centre this goes down to a coupling then through the floor.
The yellow tabs are the lower end of a cylinder on the upper shaft, I am uncertain of the original purpose of the tabs. It is this cylinder which is originally a friction fit on the upper shaft, and wears loose. Its outer edge is a coarse cog which engages with the moving ring in the steering sensor.
The top yoke is concentric with the tabs so can be fastened to them. The bottom yoke is at an angle, therefore could not.
If you remove the trim panel then lie looking up with your head against the pedals you will see the view in the photo. You should not be able to move the tabs easily with a finger, if you can you have the problem the foam addresses.
Hope this helps it make sense.
Hi Gullible,
I forgot the bit about the trim.
It is best to take the forward door post lower panel off first, but not essential.
The under trim has pegs into the bulkhead and clips either end, the inner one is behind the front of the triangular carpet section fastened to the under panel.
The panel under the steering wheel hooks in at the bottom, clips at the top, get hold in he semicircular recess and pull out and down. the sensor is visible once this trim is off.
Regards
Bob
11th Dec 2015 4:03 pm
Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
gullible wrote:
SNIP
None of the local dealers or independents have had to fix one before so they do not know what I'm talking about.
Hi gullible,
Unfortunately neither the local Canberra indy nor the dealer service seem to have a good reputation. I suggest that you consider going further afield, even Sydney (as garrycol is planning - see the "Australia & NZ" forum).
Best Wishes,
PeterThe Bearded Dragon
12th Dec 2015 5:42 am
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Hi Bob, I have to do the same repair, I've mentioned it on another thread. What foam did you use ?
Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
16th Dec 2015 9:37 am
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Can anyone help ? I need to know which bit to glue to which bit and what's the best foam or whatever to use ? I need my D3 back on the road. Swmbo's beetle is killing me Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
17th Dec 2015 7:25 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Ok I got it. I've been looking at this tonight. Basically now I've seen it with my own eyes and re read the thread it's all clear what's going on. The darker yellowey greeny colour ring visible on the picture is supposed to be I assume either an interference fit to the steel shaft of the column or glued in place. Either way it's a duff design. Because. What you can't see is just above the sensor and drive ring is a bearing. I assume what's happening is over time the plastic is gently wearing and the grease in the bearing has been making is way down the shaft. Gravity being the bitch there. Easy to diagnose, with the kick panel and knee panel removed you can see the sensor. If you get someone to turn the steering wheel the ring will stay put. As soon as it's done that you get the HDC fault because the car doesn't know where the wheels are pointing. That's the background to it.
Next job is to repair. I think what I'm going to do is take the sensor out of the way, clean the shaft and then bond the ring to the shaft as has been described in the thread already. At that point then it's just a simples case of resetting the zero point calibration and way to go. I'll follow up tomorrow and add more photos. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
19th Dec 2015 6:55 pm
gullible
Member Since: 07 Nov 2015
Location: ACT
Posts: 4
Good investigative work.
I look forward to the photos. This is a job I will be tackling when I see some pictures and my confidance increases.
21st Dec 2015 9:51 am
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Thanks gullible I'm going to do the repair today so I'll
Update later.Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
Hi All
Sorry Discomadness I missed your post on this one.
The foam I use is the dense rubber packing usually grey if you squash it it takes time to recover.
I believe it was called sorbo rubber
You can see where it goes in my photo. you can also see the area in yours.
Its between the green fingers on the plastic cylinder and the side of the yoke of the UJ fixed to the upper steering column.
I used this foam because it creeps with time and will re centre if the alignment is slightly out.
Several glues would bond it, including contact glue like evo stick or bostik.
As describe I used a flexible cyanoacrylate called liquid weld with its activator.
hope this helps
Seasons greetings to you all
Bob
30th Dec 2015 8:45 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Hi Bob, as a short term thing I've used "sticks like sh*t" it's very thick so doesn't sag etc. once I've gone back down the garage and reset the steering angle I'll let you know how it goes.
I think there's more to it than just going loose though. Mine had a fair amount of play in the bit you have to fix. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
30th Dec 2015 9:01 pm
rockcrawler
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: Ferring
Posts: 2884
Sorry for the dumb question but what are the symptoms if the sensor has failed ?D3 Metropolis Bonatti Grey-Alpaca Leather-adaptive headlights-fridge-EGR blanking kit-Harmen Karden-Cruise-4x4 info enabled-Tinted Windows-Heated F&R Seats-Rosen rear Entertainment-LED'S everywhere -Smoked Side Repeaters-Rear Aircon-Vredestein Wintrac 4 Extreme-Puddle and Footwell Lamps-Stainless Steel Side Protection Tubes- NEW ASHTRAY ( thanks to dsd1036 )
Club BAS Remote FBH
Club MXS10 Ctek
Club Beanie Grill
Rear D4 Lamps
Geoff Gearbox Flush
BAS Remap
30th Dec 2015 9:32 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
HDC fault, special programs unavailable, suspension lowered. Adaptive headlight warning flashing on the dashboard is what I had. Easy to see if that's what's wrong. The steering column will turn but the yellow green ring just above the u.j won't turn with it when it should.
It's not the sensor that fails it's the ring that drives it around which is fixed to the steering column shaft or wasn't fixed as was not the case.Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
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