Member Since: 16 Jun 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 1020
Replacing this element of the steering (work internal nylon bush) also cures the clonk at the steering wheel experienced by some when going over cobbles or harsh/rough surfaces.
24th Apr 2012 7:46 am
sirdeck
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 55
Our D3 is at the local LR garage to get the new lower steering shaft installed (apart from some other parts like new compressor). They just called me and said that a wheel alignment might be necessary after the installation. Is that really possible/necessary? I know that you have to do an alignment when you change the whole control arms or stuff like that, but after changing just the shaft???
28th Aug 2012 10:06 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Replacing the lower steering column shaft does not change the alignment and the work instructions do not call for one. Unless they have done other work or have noticed signs of a poor alignment then they need to explain themselves.
Funny, I was just thinking that mine may need doing when I saw this thread.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 55
Thanks for the quick reply. Will report back how it went.
28th Aug 2012 12:59 pm
sirdeck
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 55
Just picked up the D3. They had some problems with the alignment of the steering wheel. It wasn't straight and apparently that was causing the wheel sensors to cause problems for the HDC and suspension system. They told me they had to reset the systems to memorize the new "straight ahead" point to make it work. Sounds a bit strange if you ask me. Was the last time I used this garage.
Anyway, thanks for the input
Regards
Lars
PS: they suggest to do a wheel alignment because they installed a new wheel bearing, i thought they recommended due to the installation of the steering shaft.
28th Aug 2012 5:37 pm
peterm
Member Since: 28 Sep 2009
Location: sweden
Posts: 114
Has anyone done this on an LHD car, anything to look out for ? At least the part numbers differ. I have been living with this clonk now for a while, but am considering replacing the lower column soon.
QMN500240 (RHD)
QMN500250 (LHD)
/PeterGone and missed : D3 TDV6 SE MY2008
28th Mar 2013 6:01 pm
mjom89
Member Since: 13 Sep 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 585
Just changed mine in 40 minutes using the guide. Spot on!
29th Jun 2013 1:21 pm
blue200tdi
Member Since: 23 Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 1094
Do you need a wheel alignment after a wheel bearing replacement?
I never have You guys are gonna be busier than a test bench in a plunger factory!
Java black 2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE AUTO.
2014 Kawasaki ZZR1400 Performance sport.
29th Jun 2013 9:24 pm
docdav
Member Since: 24 Jul 2011
Location: Aarhus
Posts: 1
rocko wrote:
Once again, thanks to all on this forum..... Mu steering had been getting heavy and notchy for a while now and I feared the worse. But gave the U/J a dousing of WD40 last night and it's light and free once more...
Fingers crossed that will do it for a while, otherwiseI'll be fitting a replacement.
Tried the same, no big change, did you succeed?
Regards
Michael
3rd Aug 2013 11:37 am
Cellerdweller
Member Since: 05 Oct 2012
Location: Macclesfield
Posts: 1315
Just replaced the lower steering column today , took just over an hour including time of to sort the mithering laws bike . Just for reference there was a very slight clunk to start with when turning left or right then about six weeks later the steering stopped self centreing and then became heavy .i have experienced a similar fault on ford ka"s so new what it was . Ordered the parts inc new pinch bolts from the large one ( thank you for your help and speedy delivery ) . So all sorted , steering silky smooth and no clunk You're not afraid of the dark are you ?
26th Sep 2013 7:21 pm
fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
I am having a go at this at the weekend for future reference on this 'How To' there is a technical service bulletin that gives the Torque for both bolts as 30Nm
“No return to boom and bust†Gordon Brown when chancellor
He has been proved right, now there is only bust!
1st Nov 2013 9:06 pm
fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
Update on the above,:
I replaced my lower steering column today, total time taken from getting the tools out to packing away was 3 hours 45 mins.
This was a quite a challenge for my level of skill, my tips for others:
Take the auxillary battery cover right out, very simple 10 min job, this allows very easy access to the top bolt.
I found removal very easy after spraying both bolts with WD40 and going for a cuppa undoing the two bolts, then a few taps on the bottom joint which freed it , the top part then just pulled out very easily.
To remove the steering column from the car I removed the sump gaurd and then the smaller guard in front near the bumper (I needed to take the sump guard of to remove the the smaller guard) and removed from this gap.
This made incerting the new one very simple.
I then mated up to the top shaft and hand tightened the bolt, a big mistake as I then spent about about an hour trying to fit the bottom part of the column back on.
In the end I undid the top bolt so it could move freely on the top shaft, when I did this the bottom part went straight on.
I then put the top bolt back and reassembled sump gaud and aux. battery cover, job done! Went for a drive no more knocks sweet !!
From my perspective the main tip for removal and refitting is work from the botton up (no jokes here about working on SWIMBO).
Thanks to Iain for the guide.Club Narpy Torch
“No return to boom and bust†Gordon Brown when chancellor
He has been proved right, now there is only bust!
2nd Nov 2013 5:01 pm
Xrover1
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 26
I just received my new Lower Steering Shaft. Upon inspecting it I noticed the U Joint flexibility is kinda gritty and does not flex very smoothly. I haven't pulled my old one out yet but I am concerned the new one is bad.
Can anyone who has replaced theirs tell me if the new U Joint portion moved around smoothly or was it a bit rough when moving it.
Hopefully someone can respond soon..
Thx,
Lenny2006 LR3 HSE Java Black
Los Angeles, ca
15th Dec 2013 3:07 am
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Hi Xrover1,
I'm about to do mine also - hopefully today. I've noticed the same with my new unit, it feels slightly 'bitty' when turned by hand but I suppose if it was too easy to move by hand, this would then translate into a really sloppy feel at the wheel.
If yours is the same then I guess that's how they are meant to be.
Steve
15th Dec 2013 11:54 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
Have had that before. It is due to the joint being to "open"
If you screw a bollt in to squeeze to 2 parts together, it will be nice and smooth to move My D3 Build Thread
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So all sorted , steering silky smooth and no clunk 
