That'd be fine if you take the feed at the lamp. The separate main and flash feeds are only from the stalk.
My lamps are currently wired like so:
Placing the switch on the ground means only one cable has to run through the bulkhead, (edit:) but no good if you want to turn them on independently. Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
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21st Oct 2016 10:26 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10640
Are you thinking of fitting a "2 way" switch with 3 pins?
So either on with mainbeam or on to flash spots whenever you like? Is that what you are after ?
21st Oct 2016 12:10 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Yeh was hoping for on/on with beam/off
21st Oct 2016 12:50 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
I've re-edited my original wiring diagram using the manufacturer's harness diagram as a base.
I have a three-way switch with on/off/on with high beam functions.
Please note the manufacturers have drawn on the cable conduit around the wires to the lamps at the top.
I will be mounting the switch on the dash therefore it would make sense to take the high beam feed from the stalk cables as described earlier, rather than the back of the high beam lamps themselves.
I'm using these two stripey cables as switched feeds rather than the OP who used them as a ground connection.
Having just re-assessed after adding Diodes like the diagram earlier in the thread, then realising I have to flip them around, now I'm wondering if they're even necessary? Unless to stop the two stripey wires electrifying each other?
EDIT: Will the stripey wires provide enough current to operate the relay?
Click image to enlarge
Trying to get my diagram right before I order parts
Dan
25th Oct 2016 7:55 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Change of plan after some discussion. Was trying to avoid pulling more wires through the firewall but due to the stalk feeds only signalling the CANBUS and probably not having the power to operate the relay, Ive gone with my original plan.
So much for my beautiful diagram! knocked this new one up in 2 mins
Don't suppose I'll need any Diodes or more fuses?
25th Oct 2016 10:46 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10640
A fuse where you tap into the headlight wouldn't hurt. 3A ish.
Are you sure you need that switch ? Is it worth the trouble fitting it and running the wire s though ?
26th Oct 2016 12:30 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Yeh new fuse to be added. Yeh I need the switch, don't want them to always come on with main beam. I foresee times when they may be too much
26th Oct 2016 12:35 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Me again
When the OP mounted the switch in the lighting panel, did you have any issues with the circuit board that sits behind? I could squeeze mine on the very far right of the panel but wouldn't look very neat.
29th Oct 2016 4:48 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10640
He had a D3 with a different switch to yours.
So your breaking new ground I guess.
29th Oct 2016 5:59 pm
spikekellyrm
Member Since: 23 Jul 2015
Location: Manchester
Posts: 662
Understood, but he also had a circuit board behind his switch just wondered how he managed to fit the switch's depth in
29th Oct 2016 6:56 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10640
The old switches are deeper.
or cut the terminals off and solder to them,
or bend and solder.
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