Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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How to Change the Oil Pump casing |
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Guys just done this how to today located in my gallery..I have done this because of all the cam belt tensioners that have failed because of the oil pump casing breaking in this position.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...sioner.pdf
Flack
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23rd Jun 2012 10:40 pm |
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geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
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Nice write up mick
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23rd Jun 2012 10:51 pm |
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race.it
Member Since: 15 Oct 2011
Location: Hopefully at a race track.
Posts: 851
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Have you looked at the one u pulled off to see any indication that it may be breaking?
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23rd Jun 2012 11:46 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Top man Mick
Any chance You can keep hold if that casing. If I needed it for further analysis? Bodsys Brake Bible
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23rd Jun 2012 11:56 pm |
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bulletman
Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
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Gday flack,
Nice write up, and am sure will make plenty of people feel a bit less stressed when they replace the casing.
Is the lip on the crank where the oil pump drive sits "FLAT" the pic you showed seems to suggest so.. If I am viewing it correctly, do you need to line that up on the new casing to the crank or does it self align when the plastic insert is being pushed out.
Hope that make's sense, but on all the engine;s i;ve worked on there is usually a key drive ( as you mentioned ).
Thanks again for the "How to"
Cheers
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24th Jun 2012 12:01 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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bulletman wrote:Gday flack,
Nice write up, and am sure will make plenty of people feel a bit less stressed when they replace the casing.
Is the lip on the crank where the oil pump drive sits "FLAT" the pic you showed seems to suggest so.. If I am viewing it correctly, do you need to line that up on the new casing to the crank or does it self align when the plastic insert is being pushed out.
Hope that make's sense, but on all the engine;s i;ve worked on there is usually a key drive ( as you mentioned ).
Thanks again for the "How to"
Cheers
Bulletman
Thats what the plastic locking ring does, it keeps the drive ring lined up while you locate the casing, If you look at the picture the drive in the casing is a horse shoe shape and this is replicated on the crankshaft,.
Yes not having a key way on the crankshaft threw me at first I thought it had dropped off in the sump, but there is no slot in the crankshaft for it to fit..
Flack
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24th Jun 2012 12:13 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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Bodsy wrote:Top man Mick
Any chance You can keep hold if that casing. If I needed it for further analysis?
I am keeping hold of the casing but I am going to get it crack detected at work to see if there is any sign of a fracture.
Flack
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24th Jun 2012 12:14 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20782
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Good write up
Is the crank-locking tool man enough to hold the crankshaft while you tighten up the pulley?
Presume there is no thread-lock etc on the bolt either? My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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24th Jun 2012 8:34 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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Disco_Mikey wrote:Good write up
Is the crank-locking tool man enough to hold the crankshaft while you tighten up the pulley?
Presume there is no thread-lock etc on the bolt either?
Which one bud my home made one or the one in the kit with the pins, my home made tool worked a treat and I had a 2 foot beef bar and a piece of steel box section 3 foot long to tighten the lower crankshaft bolt up. there is no thread lock on the bolt that I could see, but LR recommend you replace the bolt, its a long one its over 3 inches long.
Also on the older engines I used to work on you could undo this bolt by jamming a spanner on the bolt/nut on to the chassis and flicking the starter motor to undo them, but if you tried it the LR engine you would trash the engine as the lower pulley has no locating spline/key way on it.
I was thinking this could be a possible cause of some failed engines if this pulley spins bang goes your engine, just a thought..
Flack
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24th Jun 2012 10:23 am |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Re: How to Change the Oil Pump casing |
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Flack wrote:Guys just done this how to today located in my gallery..I have done this because of all the cam belt tensioners that have failed because of the oil pump casing breaking in this position.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...sioner.pdf
Flack
Thanks Flack, changed my pump a few days ago and great help. Like yourself and others mentioned mine was a 56 plate that the pump remained the same and should not have been a problem. Looking at the old pump the tensioner mounting point looked fine with no signs of stress or cracks. But at least some peace of mind now although it was a pain having to strip out the cam belt change I had just done. With regard to the locking of the crankshaft I chickened out and brought the tool that goes in the starter hole from Bosch, glad that I did because like you pointed out that crank bolt is tight!!..
One thing that I did notice though is that when I fitted the new oil pump seal it sat further back in the housing than the original one. Thinking nothing of it I rebuilt the engine but sitting at home over the holiday looking at my Haynes workshop manual it specifically states that the seal must only be seated 1mm below the face of the oil pump or the seal drain holes will be blocked. I have a feeling that I looked at the old pump at the time and there was a drain hole at the bottom of the seal but even with the seal fully in up against the machined opening the drain was still clear.
Have you or anyone else had a problem with this? or will I have to strip this lot down again
Thanks Jack
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27th Dec 2012 12:24 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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jack2006
That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.
Flack
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27th Dec 2012 12:35 pm |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Flack wrote:jack2006
That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.
Flack
Looks like a strip down again
Thanks Flack,
Jack
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27th Dec 2012 12:43 pm |
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Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
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Great write up Cheers Ian
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Club N.E.R.D.S
Kielder 4x4 Safari
Discoless
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27th Dec 2012 12:44 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6271
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jack2006 wrote:Flack wrote:jack2006
That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.
Flack
Looks like a strip down again
Thanks Flack,
Jack
Jack
If it is not leaking then you should be ok just keep a check on it and see.
Flack
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27th Dec 2012 2:24 pm |
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jack2006
Member Since: 12 Feb 2009
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire
Posts: 106
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Flack wrote:jack2006 wrote:Flack wrote:jack2006
That 1mm step is critical if its not there then your seal will leak after a short while. If you tap the seal in to far it covers most of the oil drain hole in the casing, this causes a back flow of oil that the seal can't handle so it starts to leak.
You need a leave the seal about 1mm proud of the casing.
Flack
Looks like a strip down again
Thanks Flack,
Jack
Jack
If it is not leaking then you should be ok just keep a check on it and see.
Flack
Flack,
I have done about 100 odd miles since the re-fit, had the sump guard off for other work since and no oil leak was evident around the front. Checked this because of oil pump change.
After your last post I ordered new oil seal, crank bolt and timing tensioner bolt, which should be here tomorrow but really do not want to do this swap-out because it will be the third time I have stripped it all down!
I will have a good look at the old oil pump and seal position tomorrow when back in work and post some pics so you can see what you think.
Cheers Jack
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27th Dec 2012 3:09 pm |
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