Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
Gear Box shudder fix - longevity
Put a tube of Dr Tranny Shudder Fix in my gearbox by removing the jubilee clip on one of the oil cooler pipes next to the radiator. Very simple fix. Worked immediately. Car drives like new again. It also uses less fuel. I know that i will probably eventually have to replace the Torque Convertor (TC) as that ultimately is what is causing the shudder (TC slipping - fixed by magic ingredients in the tube of Dr Tranny).
Does anyone on here have experience of the Dr Tranny working for a long time or does it break down resulting in a top up being needed?
I'm in the same situation, but you will need to put some more in. I was roughly 14 months before i put some new stuff in - but i will be getting the TC changed before the end of the yearSi
2016 Disco 4 SE Tech
2019 Fiesta ST3
2021 GBS Zero
30th Aug 2015 6:50 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
We have seen mixed results. All of the below was with a fluid drain at the same time.
Now these figures are just a guesstimate of the ones we personally have done.
One of the following may apply:
You usually notice the improvement straight away.
Sometimes Dr Tranny will help for a long while (about 10% of vehicles).
after 6 months or so it'll come back and another tube might help (50%)).
It goes away for a month or so and then comes back with a vengeance and will really need a torque converter (15%).
It is reduced and you can perhaps live with it (20%)
It goes away forever (perhaps 5%).
I would suggest if you do go down the torque converter route, a genuine zf new converter is fitted, as the remanufacturered cheap ones tend not to repair the lock up clutch correctly, and a remanned zf one is nearly as dear as a new one.
Once a new one is fitted, the pull away and acceleration is much improved, less revving to get anywhere. As well as the normal judder and surge gone.
First signs appeared a little before 100k; a tube of Dr Tranny cleared them up, but it was very infrequent anyway. Had the box flushed by Geoff at 103k. It was improved for a little while, but the judder came back shortly, and tube of Dr Tranny stopped it again. At around 121/122k it came back badly, seemingly getting worse by the day. Had the TC replaced by Steve ^^^ and now all is good.
That may make it sound like the flush wasn't worthwhile, but without fresh oil, I suspect things would have been much worse by that mileage (had I let it continue). Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
31st Aug 2015 8:05 am
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
Thanks for the replies. That's useful info. I'll see how it goes and if it gets worse I'll post it. Thanks again
31st Aug 2015 5:28 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
A big Hello from Germany,
Our Diva has some same problems.
seems that all that is bad in a Disco comes from Germany
...well not the SHMBO whenn she is sitting in it... she is not so bad
We changed the gearbox Oil after 210tkm because it seemed to be a wise idea.
After the change following things happened:
- gear changing faster and "lighter"
- gearbox shifts in higher gear earlier
- i can "pull" in higher gear revving low, without the gear wanting to change down.
- the diva schudders in high gears with low revving and pulling
- when driving on cruise control at 90 kmh the motor is reving up and down +200 revs -200 revs.
Considering the shudder, i think this was already there before the oilchange, but hardly noticable. I think the old oil covered it a little.
So that´s the consequence, now i am on a journey to find the cause.
I analysed the values with my very britisch IID-tool:
- The schuddering is only when the torque converter is regulated
- whilst shuddering, the pressure in the solenoid 5 and 6 fluctuates.
- this is new, i have a rear diff fault message: P
Rear Diff
• P2785-00 Clutch actuator temperature too high
• P2743-00 Transmission fluid temperature sensor B - circuit high input
• P2742-00 Transmission fluid temperature sensor B - circuit low input
• P1783-00 Transmission over-temperature condition
This seem severe, but whilst testing and logging yesterday, i could´nt find any funny temperatures in the diff values.
- can it be that the oil level is wrong?
- Can it be that the clutch in the torque converter is bad? Am i pushing through this clutch on accelerating which causes the Shudder?
- considering the pressure on the solenoids "shuddering", are the solenoids old and causing the shudder?
- is the transmission oil in the reardiff the same as in the autotransmission (connected)?
- can it be that on changing the oil, they bent something whilst raising the engine?
I hope some reel experts here can help me on that.
reading through this topic, I will need a new T/C soon, are T/C's best to be obtained from Land rover or is there better supplier to obtain a new T/C and possibly cheaper than L/R?,
GlennD3 4.4 V8 2005 sadly now gone
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23rd Feb 2016 9:28 pm
mz mini
Member Since: 02 Jul 2014
Location: Sunny Devon
Posts: 1759
Steve Norman who posted early got me a brand new one from ZF for the same price as a recon one perfect since Steve fitted it Land Rover 90 - deceased
Discovery 3 - deceased
Discovery 4 2013
Mini Cooper S 1964 Mk1 - International Rally winner red & white
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23rd Feb 2016 9:44 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
Can anyone give me the Part Number for the ZF torque converter?
24th Feb 2016 11:33 am
Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
Dutchrockboy wrote:
A big Hello from Germany,
Our Diva has some same problems.
seems that all that is bad in a Disco comes from Germany
...well not the SHMBO whenn she is sitting in it... she is not so bad
We changed the gearbox Oil after 210tkm because it seemed to be a wise idea.
After the change following things happened:
- gear changing faster and "lighter"
- gearbox shifts in higher gear earlier
- i can "pull" in higher gear revving low, without the gear wanting to change down.
- the diva schudders in high gears with low revving and pulling
- when driving on cruise control at 90 kmh the motor is reving up and down +200 revs -200 revs.
Considering the shudder, i think this was already there before the oilchange, but hardly noticable. I think the old oil covered it a little.
So that´s the consequence, now i am on a journey to find the cause.
I analysed the values with my very britisch IID-tool:
- The schuddering is only when the torque converter is regulated
- whilst shuddering, the pressure in the solenoid 5 and 6 fluctuates.
- this is new, i have a rear diff fault message: P
Rear Diff
• P2785-00 Clutch actuator temperature too high
• P2743-00 Transmission fluid temperature sensor B - circuit high input
• P2742-00 Transmission fluid temperature sensor B - circuit low input
• P1783-00 Transmission over-temperature condition
This seem severe, but whilst testing and logging yesterday, i could´nt find any funny temperatures in the diff values.
- can it be that the oil level is wrong?
- Can it be that the clutch in the torque converter is bad? Am i pushing through this clutch on accelerating which causes the Shudder?
- considering the pressure on the solenoids "shuddering", are the solenoids old and causing the shudder?
- is the transmission oil in the reardiff the same as in the autotransmission (connected)?
- can it be that on changing the oil, they bent something whilst raising the engine?
I hope some reel experts here can help me on that.
Dutch regards from Germany
I can answer the rear diff oil and gearbox oil are seperate.
I had fluctuating revs like you, juddering at low revs (especially when towing up hill)
A gearbox oil change and dr tranny has sorted my hunting revs at steady cruise control speeds and judder under engine load for 20,000miles up to now. I've never plugged my car into a computer but mine had exactly the same symptom as yours has got. I think our problems are worn lockup clutches in our torque converters. So a new one will be needed for a more reliable fix
24th Feb 2016 12:49 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
My technical English is not so well but you put my thoughts into words.
I also think our problems are worn lockup clutches in our torque converters.
After 205.000 km, this may well be possible...
I think i´ll spend the Diva some new clutches and she´ll be shifting Smooth like a 18 year Old...
now she´s vibrating like an old Lady....
24th Feb 2016 2:58 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2821
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
24th Feb 2016 3:59 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
Thanks Nasher for your Post. Very informativ .
I read through it all.
I´ve done 127 k Miles. After the flush ist started.
We drive about 6 k Miles / Year.
I Reccon i will put in the Tranny (one tube? can i "overtube" with tranny?) and see how it works.
And go for the extra 20 k befor changing the converter.
What i don´t understand is that the converter Lockup is not in the "oil-part" of the transmission.
How can the dr. tranny have such a big effect?
second question: did they only renew the clutch plates or did they also renew the pressure (spring-thingy) unit?
PS:
Nice meeting a rubberdog with a Rib out here 8)
Last edited by Dutchrockboy on 24th Feb 2016 4:29 pm. Edited 1 time in total
24th Feb 2016 4:17 pm
DavidSally
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: Chesterfield
Posts: 565
Dutchrockboy wrote:
Is that a personal registration plate for your business?
24th Feb 2016 4:25 pm
Dutchrockboy
Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85
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Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
)
she is not so bad 
