Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
  
|
Hi guys .
I know this has been done to death and apologise in advance.
I've read and read and looked at the threads.
My D3 is on a 05 plate and I know nothing of the history of it so i need to change the belt for the cams at least but now im reading the oil pump is a cause for worry as well .
But I can't work out as mine is an early 05 plate if mine is affected by the pump issue and worth changing or best left alone and just do the belt .
Any advice or guidance is appreciated guys .
Regards Baz
|
 16th Sep 2020 5:06 pm |
|
|
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10639
 
|
They aren't in the really bad batch, but if you can afford it, its well worth doing for belt tension and oil pressure. Good investment while the belts off
|
| 16th Sep 2020 5:08 pm |
|
|
Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
|
Thanks for that .
Has there been any failures on the 05 plate trucks with this issue
|
| 16th Sep 2020 5:12 pm |
|
|
Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
|
Ok just priced up a pump at two independent lr parts suppliers .
One was almost 300 quid the other was 70 quid.
Both were given the reg number and both are well respected .
So whats going on the expensive price was for the latest disco 4 pump
The cheaper one is just purely ofc the reg no
And ideas im a bit worried now as to which to get given the prices are so far apart
Regards Barrie
|
| 16th Sep 2020 5:57 pm |
|
|
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10639
|
Goto Citroen or peauget dealer.
Genuine pump (same as factory fit LR) for £170 ish.
Phone Um for a recent price. 100G2 is the part number or similar.
Search forum.
Or
Check out advanced factors
|
| 16th Sep 2020 6:31 pm |
|
|
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20817
 
|
Citroën/Peugeot part is exactly the same as the genuine LR part, but a fraction of the price 
And there have been reported failures on the 05 and 06 models, but nowhere near as common as 07 and 08... My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
|
| 16th Sep 2020 6:49 pm |
|
|
Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
|
So it needs doing for sure .
Is there anyway of teling between the bad pumps and the stronger pumps .
I'm
A bit confused over the pricing of these two dealers one I expected to be a bit more expensive but its a lot more expensive both are respected landy places .
I dont want to be paying over the odds but I dont want to be buying a load if junk either
|
| 16th Sep 2020 6:55 pm |
|
|
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10639
|
You can see the difference in pictures on this website.
I wouldn’t buy a D4 one myself.
|
| 16th Sep 2020 7:13 pm |
|
|
|
|
Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
|
Ok boys .
We I done the belt and pump all good followed the guides on here and it was plain sailing.
However I've had a disaster I replaced the crank seal and as it said on here left it proud by 1mm run the car for a few miles all good used it today and did about 13 miles on it and its now losing oil from the front crank seal badly .
The only thing I can things of is the seal should be driven a the way in and not proud.
The original pump and seal was driven a the way to the stop .
It was a victor reinz seal I put in .
Any pointers or advice as to why it failed so soon and so badly
|
| 30th Sep 2020 4:10 pm |
|
|
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10639
|
1. I think the guide is wrong on here. (regarding depth) A moderator or whatever should really correct it!
2. Use a genuine LR seal.
|
| 30th Sep 2020 4:16 pm |
|
|
Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
|
Arrrrgggg the whole job again for that 1mm .
Should only be a couple of hrs now though I know the process.
If anyone could confirm about the seal fitment it would be really helpful .
Regards baz
|
| 30th Sep 2020 4:27 pm |
|
|
Bazross
Member Since: 18 Apr 2020
Location: lans
Posts: 141
|
Yep I've just took a good look at the old pump and it should be driven all the way into the recess the 1mm protusion is not correct .
There is an oil drain in the pump that the post says can be blocked if it is not left clear by 1mm this is not the case .
The hole is machined in behind the shoulder the seal sits against do cannot be blocked off by driving it all the way in.
I should have checked the old pump myself but there you go .
In reality the job is easy enough and can be fine in 2-3 hrs if no issues are hit and thats off my back on the drive .
One bit of advice I can add to is don't buy the cheap locking kit from amazon ot ebay they are made of toffee and bend really easy as well as not fitting and need turning down to make them fit as the diameter are all wrong .
|
| 30th Sep 2020 4:48 pm |
|
|
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 524
|
I believe that the seal should be inserted such that it is 1 mm recessed.
There is special tool to achieve this. See AF factors site, tool 303-1121. also another good write up on changing the pump.
A more economic solution may be possible but do not fit deeper than 1mm because partially blocking the oilway increases the pressure and can cause leakage.[/u]
|
| 30th Sep 2020 5:48 pm |
|
|
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 524
|
Bazross, Sorry to ask but you are locking the crankshaft at the flywheel?
You mention the timing pins being made of toffee and just concerned that you might have used them to stop the crank turning. you might get away with this for a belt change but potentially disasterous for an oil pump change.
Better to risk offending you than hear that your engine had been destroyed.
You are going to need another new crankshaft pulley bolt as well.
Last edited by ronald.soak on 30th Sep 2020 6:03 pm. Edited 1 time in total
|
| 30th Sep 2020 5:57 pm |
|
|
