Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
Shouldn't need anything doing with alignment/geometry if you're only doing that bolt as it's just a bolt...no cam adjusters.
I wouldn't worry about doing anything with IID/EAS.
If you've pulled fuse F26 and/or disconnected the battery it won't adjust and once you've jacked up (chassis, not the wishbone) then the only force involved when removing the bolt will be the weight on the arm itself...which is why using a jack to just nudge the wishbone should be fine.
If you haven't got an air hammer, any big SDS drill with a point chisel and roto-stop would be fine - most big SDS drills have this, even/especially the cheap ones.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
3rd May 2020 11:15 pm
galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
like the idea of SDS drill
3rd May 2020 11:18 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Plus 1 , forgot about that , used my electric bosch 2kg SDS drill when I was trying to get some of the bolts out on the rear wishbones , the easy ones that is, the other ones were
Good call @ highlands
4th May 2020 1:16 am
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
I'll be ordering the replacement bits today, will let you know how I get on. Thanks for all the help so far. It's lucky that I noticed the sheared bolt in the first place, all I was doing was removing the front bumper so that I could fix the parking sensors '
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'05 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'06 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'08 Freelander 2 - gone
'98 P38 V8/LPG - gone
'02 L322 V8 - gone
'02 Freelander 1 - gone
'05 Disco 3 TDV6 - SWMBO
'06 L322 V8 - current
Last one I had with the that bolt seized in I had to take the leg and the the lower arm off together, the bottom bush was shot on the leg anyway and I suspect yours might be.
With the bolt being seized in it turns the whole bush and wears it out. You cant use heat as it destroys the bush, if it knocks great.
I had to replace the leg and lower arm together.
Flack
4th May 2020 8:49 am
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
Mick - Help!!
If this job went well then it's well within my abilities, but if it turns horrid then I'm stuck with a dead Disco on my drive. Are you working yet cos there are number of jobs that I'd like you to look at for me, even if it means leaving the car with you for a few days?'
'
'05 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'06 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'08 Freelander 2 - gone
'98 P38 V8/LPG - gone
'02 L322 V8 - gone
'02 Freelander 1 - gone
'05 Disco 3 TDV6 - SWMBO
'06 L322 V8 - current
4th May 2020 8:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Flack wrote:
Last one I had with the that bolt seized in I had to take the leg and the the lower arm off together, the bottom bush was shot on the leg anyway and I suspect yours might be.
With the bolt being seized in it turns the whole bush and wears it out. You cant use heat as it destroys the bush, if it knocks great.
I had to replace the leg and lower arm together.
Flack
Hi mick
Hope ur keeping safe and well
Wow, everyday is a school day, is it all down to like the rears , of nothing added to the bolts on installation that causes this plse
May i ask , is it better to use ceramic grease or coppaslip on the bolts or doesn’t matter which one Plse
Know ur not suppose to add anything to the threads
Many thks as always
4th May 2020 9:17 am
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2607
Flack wrote:
Last one I had with the that bolt seized in I had to take the leg and the the lower arm off together, the bottom bush was shot on the leg anyway and I suspect yours might be.
With the bolt being seized in it turns the whole bush and wears it out. You cant use heat as it destroys the bush, if it knocks great.
I had to replace the leg and lower arm together.
Flack
That's made my mind up then. I have new front struts but wasn't going to bother until I changed the lower arms.
4th May 2020 10:39 am
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
How can I tell if my struts need replacing? Makes sense to do both jobs together if necessary. It wouldn't surprise me if they are needed as I have a feeling that most if not all of the bushes and gators need doing, as well as a full service and a good 'checking over'. The car has had good routine maintenance over the years but not what I'd class as TLC or anything preventative. I bought it from a family member so I know it's history quite well - keep going until it breaks, or, if it ain't broke then don't fix it. My approach is somewhat different '
'
'05 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'06 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'08 Freelander 2 - gone
'98 P38 V8/LPG - gone
'02 L322 V8 - gone
'02 Freelander 1 - gone
'05 Disco 3 TDV6 - SWMBO
'06 L322 V8 - current
4th May 2020 10:48 am
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5107
gstuart wrote:
May i ask , is it better to use ceramic grease or coppaslip on the bolts or doesn’t matter which one Plse
I wouldn't worry too much about which one I used for that bolt.
The main thing to note about Copaslip is that it is anti-seize rather than lubricant so shouldn't be used where the surfaces will regularly move relative to each other...other than for installing and removing the bolt.
I used to use Copaslip on caliper slider pins many years back but a lot of reports it causes erosion (especially on motorbike calipers) so went over to ceramic grease. I still use Copaslip on 'static' bolts though.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
4th May 2020 11:53 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Hi @highlands
Many thks , apologises for the daft questions , just always prefer to ask than make a big mistake
Indeed used ceramic grease for the wishbone pins, also done the same with the rear upper wishbones , still think that’s the hardest thing I’ve ever had to do replacing those rear upper wishbones
Front struts were a dream to do in comparison, worst part was messing around with the voss connectors, another reason I replaced them for the brass pushfits , that really made the world of difference on installation
4th May 2020 2:12 pm
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2607
Red grease now for me on caliper pins. Copper grease on bolt connections unless you're not worried about removal in 5years (apart from the rear propshaft and or when "loctited")
4th May 2020 2:56 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 873
Re: Front shock lower bolt?
BrianX wrote:
Click image to enlarge
On a second note - anybody guess where the oil leak is from on the right? I haven't investigated it yet, just saw it on the photo.
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The leak looks to me like the bottom pipe connection to the intercooler is leaking and when driving it’s blown back onto the rack and chassis IMOMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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