Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Now I can't find my 15mm bi-hex socket to get the calliper carrier off!
Halfrauds here I come!
5th Apr 2020 1:02 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
Parky63 wrote:
DM & Prof,
A lot of adverts state "Cam belts done" so the question to ask is when and at what mileage was it done. Oh, and was the oil pump replaced. Best regards,
David
David I'm sure you probably know this already but.....
Whilst on your search for another D3 don't just take the vendors word for it that the belts and pump being changed. You want to see evidence of same such as invoices or the old parts, better still both!!
No evidence of work carried out, or service/maintenance records, walk away! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Apr 2020 2:57 pm
Parky63
Member Since: 10 Apr 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 409
Profsr G,
Totally agree and yes I know the advice - however, it's always worth re-iterating as this great forum is always attracting new members.
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Stripped down the nearside EPB and found that the cable is snapped.
Now what do I do!
Do I just buy a cable (they are expensive)! and fit it or would I be better off getting a new module or what?
HELP!
Last edited by omg! on 6th Apr 2020 1:31 pm. Edited 2 times in total
6th Apr 2020 12:27 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
As its the n/s cable If I recall correctly you can replace it without too much heartache.
Firstly strip off the n/s hub and detach the cable as well as the cable lock nut behind the back plate. Then loosen / undo any cable ties between the back plate and the EPB actuator. Unscrew the nut holding the cable into the EPB actuator and then unscrew the inner hand brake from the actuator!
Replace the cable by screwing the new inner cable back into the EPB actuator (I think this is 5 turns but someone else will confirm) Reconnect the cable to the brake shoe arm and readjust the shoes as per Bodsey's brake bible.
If you're going to do the o/s cable that one is a hook type, and can be a bit tricky to get off and back on especially if the car is on the ground.
Just seek confirmation on the number of turns for the new cable as its important!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
6th Apr 2020 1:23 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Thanks PROFSR, very helpful.
I've cleaned the offside and reasembled it so I'll just replace the N/S cable as per your instructions.
I'll rummage around the internet for the number of turns or wait for someone on here to give me the info.
Thanks
6th Apr 2020 1:33 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5061
Remember where people tend to get stuck here is on the adjustment of the shoes. So pay particular attention to the expander lever and it's lock screw! It's all in the bible!! If you mark the cable with tippex and count the number of turns it takes to release it that should suffice I would think.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
6th Apr 2020 1:51 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
After cleaning them I've successfully (I think) adjusted the shoes on the N/S IAW the bible, using a torque wrench etc.
Thanks for your help.
6th Apr 2020 1:57 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20853
Cables are easy enough to replace. Drivers side is easier than passenger side
Bolts will likely be seized into the suspension tower, and get a new captive nut for the front fixing My D3 Build Thread
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