Yep, no catastrophic failure, so I would think that the oil supply is OK.
Turbo failure due to oil starvation is something I know only too well!
My recently installed 200TDi'd 110 (Originally N/A) was driven from Cardiff to my place in France and then around for about 3000 miles before the the screeching noise when accelerating said something wasn't quite right! I thought it was a hose slipping off as had happened before (Clip not tightened fully!) but on checking the play of the turbo bearing it was obvious there was too much play.
Off with the turbo, an easy 1 hour job on a LHD 110 with a 300 turbo to clear the steering shaft, only to find that the banjo bolt on the oil feed pipe had a hole up the centre but no drilling to allow oil out into the turbo!
I can't remember if it was me or my mate who bolted the turbo bits on when putting the engine together but neither of us thought of checking the bolt for a feed hole, a banjo bolt bought will have one won't it? I will add it was a proper banjo bolt!
Neither of us could remember who supplied it so it was one of those things!
So what can you do but accept that the turbo has gone to meet it's maker and buy a new cartridge for it.
A darn sight cheaper that a refurbed or reconned one and I knew everything else was good on it.
What amazed me was that it lasted as long as it did considering the journey from Cardiff to France was pulling a decently loaded trailer!
Garret turbos are well built or rather their bearings are very forgiving!
Let's hope Borg Warner ones are equally resilient!
So I know I am taking a bit of a risk, but as you say my turbo hasn't failed because of oil failure.
The car will have an oil change as soon as it is back with me so, but it had new oil and filter just before I bought it in December, but for a new filter and some decent 5W-30 fully synthetic which doesn't cost the earth I think it is worth the expense.
BTN, the people who supply the turbo only have one advisory and that it to make sure the heat shield isn't toughing the actuator or arm, nothing e new oil pipe.
They also offer a:
No Quibble Warranty for
diesel commercials
All replacement turbos we supply for diesel commercial vehicles are covered by our 12 month No Quibble Warranty.
Better than nothing!
When it comes to the timing belt (15,000 miles from now) I might 'engineer' this to happen at my place in France where I have a 2 post hoist and lift the body to check the bits on the back of the engine, while I do the high pressure belt in comfort! The only downside to this is the air-con empty and refill, everything else is do-able on site.
Does Disco_Mikey have a list of known bits that 'have' to be renewed with a body off I wonder?
My feeling is a plentiful supply of trim clips!
Hi Washwipe
I can see the list of things to do when the body is off but NOT a shopping list of bits that have to be renewed, bolts, plastic clips etc. when it all goes back together again!
I am intending to replace any brake pipes that show signs of age and of course do a strip down of the Parking Brake Module as a precaution.
But I really do doubt that everything (Body bolts etc.) will be re-usable, and as I will be doing it in France I'd rather take all those bits with me from the UK!
I do appreciate that this list will be 'fluid' but some help even if it is over enthusiastic!
Ian
25th Jan 2018 7:30 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10549
I don't think any plastic clips hold the body together
I assume the bolts that hold the body together are big enough, that a bit of rust isn't an issue ???
Connectors in the wheel arches I understand can be a little troublesome, but don't know how you can prepare for that
25th Jan 2018 8:07 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10549
To be honest Pete I am flabbergasted!
It wasn't as though it was getting a dribble of oil through, nothing could get past a non drilled banjo bolt!
Respect to Garrett for building a tough unit, ideal for the rigours of use in Africa and the like.
I wonder if the soon to be announced 'New Defender' will encompass components half as tough?
Thanks for that like Pete, yes it is a manual but it does show what might be in store.
The clips were the body trim ones that so often have been knocked off once or twice before and are likely to break.
The front bumper has some particularly vulnerable fixings, it is the ones you don't normally come across that Disco_Mikey can point out will be 'at risk' and to have spares on hand.
This probably wouldn't be a problem if I was removing the body in the UK, but yes you can order parts to get delivered to France but the cost and time escalates exponentially.
Ian
25th Jan 2018 10:26 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10549
I like ordering the interior clips and fixings off ebay from china.
Sometimes you can get 10 for 99p delivered. But prices are rising
Pete
My experience of ordering stuff, anything in France, is the time line is at least twice as long as here in the UK.
It is one thing we British have got nailed is the logistics business!
My place in France is lovely but it is rural and because of that any delivery is subject to incredible delays!
My post code in France is 24270, that won't take yo to my house or even my hamlet but an area the size of Gloucester, with no street names and minimal road numbering!
Stuff from China takes half the time to the UK as it does to France, well it probably gets to France at the same time as here but spends at least twice as long in customs!
Don't get me wrong I love France but it does not have a good logistics business!
'It will be here tomorrow' means in reality that it will be here a week tomorrow!
Also I probably would have to go to the depot 30 miles away and pick it up because they were too lazy to phone me to find out where I am, and you ALWAYS put a contact number for the courier on the label!
It is a bit of a nightmare, my 110 was off the road for over 2 weeks waiting for a part from the UK which had glued itself to Carbon Blanc, the DPD depot outside Paris where everything seems to pass through!
So my quest of taking out everything I 'might' need is something I spend a bit of time researching!
As for the UK, I ordered a brake pipe yesterday at 4pm arrived this morning at 10.05am well done DPD UK!
Now waiting for a phone call to say the turbo is all done and the car is ready to collect.
Final chapter, well regarding the turbo! There are still other DTCs and a few 'funnies' to be solved!
The actuator arm was still very stiff, not seized but stiff. I applied plenty of penetrating oil, there was evidence of my original penetrating oil but it hadn't been particularly successful and I don't think it would ever go back to normal. It was still stiff because of the rust inside the ball and housing of the linkage swells to form an interference fit rather than a fairly loose ball and socket.
Personally I would say that no amount of moving and oiling would resolve this build up of rust and free the linkage off to an 'as new' freedom.
So a new turbo or actuator arm would be needed, that said getting at the actuator arm on the vehicle without lifting the body is neigh on impossible!
So I might take the nearside wheel off and the heat shield and work some ceramic grease into both joints on the arm before too long and certainly before any corrosion can set in. The last one lasted 191,000 miles so I have small window!
The rest of the turbo was A1, no play in the shaft so after replacing the actuator arm I'll put it on Ebay to recoup some money as my pockets are now rather empty and even a loaf of bread costs though the water can be got for nothing from a refill fountain!
Thanks to Pete and everybody for all the good advice that has given me a car with - so far - 33 mpg!
That's with some rush hour 60 mph max and pottering about around town, but certainly so much better than the 17 mpg with the stuck actuator!
In case anybody feels that the kit of a new actuator arm will solve their problems, a bit of a warning!
If you have an early turbo then the new actuator arm isn't a replacement, if like mine, see the photo, you will have two ball joints not one and a through bolt on the other end.
Having replaced my turbo I could have a good look at my old one seen here, and as I could pop the ball joints off easily, I could feel that the waste-gate was reasonably smooth, so I um 'polished the balls', to get rid of the rust and did the same for the ball cups with some emery cloth. Pop a bit of ceramic grease in and pop the balls back in and every thing is perfectly smooth.
Just squirting penetrating oil won't rid the cups or balls of the rust that seizes them, at least not for long.
As for taking it apart on the car, I really don't think this could be done with the turbo in situ no matter how agile you are!
With the body off, yes, but not in situ through the gap in the wheel arch.
To get to the arm the heat shield has to come off, it is held on by three very short 8mm headed bolts.
Ian
28th Jan 2018 10:21 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10549
Pete
Yes my old turbo (25/05 date on it) has two ball joints, and I'm pretty certain they were seized enough to cause the problems.
By the time I had polished the balls and emeryed the cups it was very much easier to operate.
I was so keen to get the new turbo fitted I stupidly I didn't look at the new one closely and check the freedom of the actuator of a new turbo see what type of actuator arm it had before I gave it to Promec to put on!
So it may be worth me keeping the actuator kit in case I need it (much) later!
When I get to France and get the car up on the 2 post lift, I'll have a look at the actuator arm and make sure the joints are given a good work out with some ceramic grease.
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