DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Adaptive Cruise Control 2016 Discovery 4

M3DPO

Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8154

2014 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux Auto Corris Grey

No apparently it is normal to disengage at 20mph, good work! It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.

16th Dec 2020 11:04 pm

jjvd21

Member Since: 16 Jul 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1070

I was able to source radar pack DPLA-9G768-AD and have ordered the steering wheel switch from LR. The OEM bracket that holds the radar pack (like the steering wheel switch) is backordered here in the USA. I decided to modify the bracket that came with DPLA-9G768-AD and attach it like others have done (thanks Dondiddy). Once I get the switch and Gap IID Tool I'll enable everything.

Below are pictures as I thought they may help others

The grinding, drilling, and attaching are fairly easy. The trickiest part is making sure the radar back will sit in the correct place so the bumper cover will fit over it. The bumper has a pocket on the backside where the radar pack fits. Make sure to pay attention to this area. I wouldn't hesitate to do this again. The whole process took less than 30 minutes. One bit of advice - drilling the holes in the aluminum crash bar creates small and featherlight shavings, I would have a vacuum handy or put a piece of cardboard underneath to direct them outward.

The bracket comes with 2 holes but I decided to add a 3rd for stability, if you don't it will flex a little bit.

Click image to enlarge

Very important to use spacers or something behind the bracket, the plug will contact the crash bar if you don't provide something to create a gap.

Click image to enlarge

16 D4 Landmark
05 D3 HSE V8
THE original D4 spotter

17th Dec 2020 2:28 am

RATA1

Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353

2014 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 XXV LE Auto Causeway Grey

Good job.
Wish I had a garage like yours

In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.

2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2

17th Dec 2020 8:19 am

Dondiddy

Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 307

2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux Auto Yulong White

Only one word of caution! The bolt that you have identified and have cut off is the bolt that adjusts the alignment of the radar and needs to have enough of it left to allow proper adjustment. At the ball end of the post there is a small hole for a allen key which allows you to screw the post in and out to allow adjustment. The adjustment is only on that one particular post as the other two are fixed. Hopefully there is enough left to allow you to adjust.

17th Dec 2020 8:40 am

jjvd21

Member Since: 16 Jul 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1070

My D4 is getting some paint correction done, I wish that was my garage! Good point on the bolt, if I don’t have enough thread I will have to slide something in between it and the crashbar to make up the gap. 16 D4 Landmark
05 D3 HSE V8
THE original D4 spotter

17th Dec 2020 12:52 pm

RATA1

Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353

ACC on a 2014

Spent pretty much all day yesterday doing the IGN feed and BATT. Didn't take photos all the time as I was mostly swearing and frustrated.

All I can say is DO NOT pull off the rubber gasket in the passenger side engine bay. I did and took me several hours getting it back on again. Big mistake.

So, all I did in a day was, remove the glove box, side trim and kick panel in the passenger cabin space, then disconnect and remove the battery. Loosen the engine fuse box remove the CJB, fit 5 cables (only 2 required) then refit it all.

I have decided to take the CAN from somewhere else but I did run two extra cables through the firewall, just in case I needed them as IGN or CAN later in the engine bay as there is no way I am doing it again.
Same for the engine bay fuse box, added the required wire in POS 7 and an extra in POS 9 as only those two were spare and had power in but no output wire in mine. Wrapped and tied the spare cables up, put a 3 way waterproof socket on the end and dropped them in the void under the spaghetti with a plastic bag with the plug connector bits ready to have someone scratching their head in 10 years if I don't use them

.

I couldn't finish the battery fuse box as the connectors I had weren't the right ones. Just left the wire poking through the holes so I could connect the radar later and once I had the right crimps, it would only be a simple task of battery out and open the fuse box.

To get the cable through the firewall there is a little nipple that you can see from inside. I didn't want to poke from the inside out to the engine bay in case I stabbed something else, so tried to find the other side. I couldn't find it so foolishly removed the big seal. Don't. It doesn't help and is a sod to get back on.My fingers are still sore. I borrowed an endoscope and found the hole. Couldn't feel it with my finger before but once I 'saw it' I could. Bit smaller than I expected. To put a hole in it I used a kebab skewer at a 45 angle from right to left (horizontal plane) so as not to have any chance of damaging the loom. I had to go through the mess of cables on the right to make the hole in the left. I then stripped back some twin and earth and used the earth as a puller.
It helps to take the battey negative lead off as it gets in the way (like everything else in there!).

Engine bay (with copper pull wire in)

A bit tight in there

Foot well

I soldered the cables to each other a few inches apart and then the red/white to the copper wire guide as I wanted to use cable lube (this is the yellow stuff in the photos) and as the hole was small and I wanted to keep it that way, tape was no good.

Got the three cables through with the help of my wife pulling gently from the foot well. She only came in with a cup of tea

I put the cables in some non-split convoluted tubing to protect it as it came through. It also made it easier to run up and over the back of the CJB.

Fitted only the red/white wire to cavity 8 of the green CJB connector left the other two taped up out of the way.

When adding the red/white female terminal - check you are putting in the right hole as it will be a sod to get out in the small space you have to work in.
Once you have crimped the terminal on you need to remove the red latching plate on the connector face otherwise the crimp won't push fully home. There are two small latches and you need a few hands and a small flat blade to gently prise it off. Once in replace the plate. I didn't take mine fully off. Sorry no photos but it is obvious when you look at it. Look at the big blue one and lift that one off for practice.
I suppose it might be worth checking you actually have this pin on the CJB before going too far!

Refitted the CJB without the fuse 6, fuse box, cables/battery and I left the coiled up purple and red/yellow in the gap between the battery and the engine fuse box ready to run over the back of the engine bay where all the others go another day as it was late and I NEEDED a beer as the final straw was dropping a 10mm long reach socket down the gap on the top of the front wing. I expect/hope that will fall out when I take the bumper/arches off!

Tested the car this morning before putting the glove box and everything else back together. All good, no faults related to this disruptive work.

I would say a hell of a lot of work just for the IGN red/white cable. The BATT was easy and re-fitting the CJB was simple after all the pain of the grommet! Still forewarned is forearmed so you might have it easier

I still have to run the two cables over to the driver's side to the AUX battery compartment where I will combine these with the two CAN wires and the GND taken from the TCCM (making a Y bit for that so no cutting

Martin). Then probably down to the wheel arch (another grommet!) following the existing loom to the front ready to take the bumper off and fit the radar and bracket then finally make up the connector. Hopefully the easy bit...

Cheers. In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.

2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2

19th Dec 2020 9:40 pm

M3DPO

Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8154

Could you not just use the unused vacant “Chinese?” socket that is located at the front top of the radiator for both live ignition and earth?- it becomes live when the ignition is switched on and must be fused. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.

20th Dec 2020 9:43 am

RATA1

Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353

Probably, but that isn't "as factory"

In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.

2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2

20th Dec 2020 9:52 am

hgrimmett

Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901

2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 SE Tech Auto Indus Silver

RATA1 wrote:
Bit shabby given a new one can be had for around that.
I asked him if he had tested it and where it came from and he didn't know, think I offered £250 based on that.
Still for sale

Ha, I offered him £250 too, still for sale... you'd have thought he'd start to get the hint... -------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)

21st Dec 2020 9:34 am

M3DPO

Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8154

The word has got out that they may be in big demand and very desirable, the sooner someone can come up with another version that works the better, of course it is not everyone who has got an Iid tool.

It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.

21st Dec 2020 9:45 am

RATA1

Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353

Quick update, cable ran from battery side to passenger side, across the rear cable tray, tapped into HS CAN with Y loom on TCCM, through the grommet behind the wheel arch liner out to the front bumper and connector terminated.
Radar bracket fitted. If you use a D4 'proper bracket' and maybe not on a 2015/2016 you need to cut the back of the bumper or it won't fit back on. Grr.

Still got to connect the batt fuse, batteries and put the arches, headlight and grille back on before I can test it but ran out of time due to Santa coming tomorrow and need to be ready...
I will add photos of what I did with some detail sometime over the holidays - a few things need to come off and some creative thinking needed in places that ate a lot of time

Cheers and have a good Christmas! In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.

2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2

24th Dec 2020 8:05 pm

RATA1

Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353

mjom89 wrote:
Well, I’m in the club. Flashed the ECU tonight thanks to GAP, set the CCF, calibrated the module and all is good!

I tried with the Speed Control setting set to Adaptive Stop and Go, it calibrated OK and then when I pressed cruise nothing happened.

I then set Speed Control to Speed Control (as per post on page 3), calibrated again and then when I tried cruise I saw “Cruise not available” until I parked up and let the car go to sleep.

Calibration took 5 miles on country roads and then 3 miles on an A road... I had the ACC light flashing until it was done.

I'm in the "I have the cable fitted now" club but cannot get mine to work.

I have tried the settings like you and when set to Adaptive Stop and Go I got nothing from the buttons so changed to Speed Control, no good either as I get Cruise not Available . I let the car shut down until the dash goes blank and can't get the Calibration to work either. I run it and it says it has succeeded but the ACC light does not come on or flash when I go for a drive.

The error I get on a scan is from the ACC saying configuration incompatible.

Both the ACC lights come on when I switch on the ignition but that's it, they go out after a few seconds after system checks.

I even tried restoring my CCF and setting the settings from GAP's FAQ about it (as in the L320 settings for earlier years) as well as the ones for 2015+

Range Rover L322 2010 to 2012 and Rover Rover Sport L320 2010 to 2013;
Install the correct parts (radar, switches) taken from a vehicle of the same model year and platform.

The Car Configuration File needs to be changed accordingly. Menu–Car Config–Body Control;

Cruise Control
Adaptive Fitted

Cruise Control Display
Adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages

JAG Cruise Control
ACC*

Update the IIDTool firmware to the latest firmware and call the calibration function using the tool connected to the car; Menu–Calibration…

The calibration will take some driving to complete.

*Later cars can be set to ACC_Queu or similar. If the cruise control does not work at ACC_Queu, revert back to ACC as the firmware does not support it thus disables the cruise control.

Discovery 4/LR4 L319 2010 to 2016*
Install the correct parts (radar, switches) taken from a vehicle of the same model year and platform.

2015+, the Car Configuration File needs to be changed accordingly. Menu–Car Config–Complete list, use the search box*;

Speed Control
Adaptive Fitted

Standard speed control display type
Adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages

Speed control
ACC

Speed control
Adaptive speed control, stop and go

Forward collision warning
Forward collision warning GEN 1

Update the IIDTool firmware to the latest firmware and call the calibration function using the tool connected to the car; Menu–Calibration…

The calibration will take some driving to complete.

*The ACC was available for the L320 2010-2013 but only from 2015 on the L319. It may work on earlier L319 since they are the same platform electrically wise than a L320 but this still needs to be confirmed. On earlier model years, the settings would be the same as on the L322 above.

**CCF Full access (complete list) is required and available upon request.

Neither worked. Ran out of things to try now and have no "normal cruise" anymore so anyone got any ideas or something I may have missed?
Wondering if it is the BCM as mine is EH22 (as it's a 2014) and success is from those with a GH22 BCM - is only the BCM that controls all this stuff?
Cheers. In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.

2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2

27th Dec 2020 5:28 pm

Dondiddy

Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 307

Your cruise buttons will not work until the calibration has been completed so you may be jumping between settings needlessly. There are 8 settings that need to be changed. (Sorry I thought I had sent them to you already.) (Note Speed control is listed 3 times and needs all 3 changed and adaptive speed control ecu is listed 2 times and needs both settings changed)
1/Speed control=Adaptive Speed control
2/Adaptive speed control ecu=Uk/rest of world
3/Adaptive speed control ecu =standard blockage level-40db
4/standard speed control display type= adaptive speed control full display plus priority messages
5/speed control =adaptive speed control
6/adaptive speed control indication in instrument cluster=enabled
7/speed control=adaptive speed control stop and go (this setting worked on mine)
8/forward collision warning =forward collision warning gen 1.
I had the issue with the calibration completing ok but the calibration procedure not running during a drive. This was cured withe the firmware reflash from Gap.

27th Dec 2020 9:48 pm

RATA1

Member Since: 27 Feb 2020
Location: Somerset
Posts: 353

Hello.
Ok - maybe I am - after all my cabling and disassembly I am a "bit" keen

Had a day off Christmas Day and was bored by Boxing Day so put it all back together ready to test it today.
Do you mean a reflash of the FW already supplied for the radar? If so I'll do that tomorrow as the settings you posted above (and did send) are what is in there now.
Pat isn't back until 7th Jan so if it still doesn't work I'll need to start updating ECUs to the same as yours - starting at the BCM maybe..
My BSU should be here by then too.
Keep you updated.

In today's world, if you contribute something, you don't contribute enough. If you contribute nothing, you receive everything.

2014 Discovery XXV
1961 Series 2

27th Dec 2020 10:05 pm

Dondiddy

Member Since: 26 Dec 2019
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 307

Have you reflashed the radar unit with the updated firmware from Gap? You can only do this when it is installed correctly with all the wiring in place. I would do this first then make the ccf changes.

27th Dec 2020 10:15 pm