Dondiddy wrote:

I do not think that the switchpack you have bought will work. When getting the bits together to do mine I picked up a Range Rover Sport steering wheel from a 2010 car and tried the switchpack in mine. The switches did not light up when the sidelights were switched on and the cruise (normal) did not work with a cruise not available message. I believe that due to canbus changes in 2013 the earlier switchpacks will not work.You need LR062416 for colour keyed wheel or LR062417 for gloss black which will work with a later D4
If you have a later D4 I would avoid if possible using the Range Rover Sport switchpacks as they are very Vin specific and if can be almost impossible to try and work out which ones will work with your car. Also if you stick with the D4 switches you only need to buy a single switchpack. There is no need to buy both sides.

Dondiddy wrote:

I do not think that the switchpack you have bought will work. When getting the bits together to do mine I picked up a Range Rover Sport steering wheel from a 2010 car and tried the switchpack in mine. The switches did not light up when the sidelights were switched on and the cruise (normal) did not work with a cruise not available message. I believe that due to canbus changes in 2013 the earlier switchpacks will not work.You need LR062416 for colour keyed wheel or LR062417 for gloss black which will work with a later D4
If you have a later D4 I would avoid if possible using the Range Rover Sport switchpacks as they are very Vin specific and if can be almost impossible to try and work out which ones will work with your car. Also if you stick with the D4 switches you only need to buy a single switchpack. There is no need to buy both sides.

grzesiul wrote:

i guess this should work fine than: https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/440...ring_wheel
G

Yes that is the one to use If it matches the colour of the RH switchpack otherwise you would get the gloss black one. As mentioned rimmer bros or if you are local to a dealer try them as there will not be any carriage to pay from them even when they have to order it in. they can usually get it for the next day.

M3DPO wrote:

Try Rimmer Brothers at Lincoln, they usually give 10% discount, very reliable, long established, highly recommended.

+1 for Rimmer Bros , they were great getting me new sunroof drain tubes at very short notice last week

RATA1 wrote:

M3DPO wrote:

Where is the loom available from?

You need to make your own up if you don't have it already installed and route it best you can.


I have yet to do this as I am waiting forr all the bits and reserve a few days, but in my head the method would be:

Assume 5m of cable for each as excess can be removed at the final 18 way connector stage. It is cheap enough to look at.
Assume bumper is off and the radar unit is fitted and aligned.
Pre-twist the CAN cables with 1 twist per inch but leave some untwisted as it will maybe be easier to feed through the firewall if not twisted but twist as soon as it pops out the other side.
Do not twist the CAN bus wires with other wires.


1. Take the battery out to access the engine fuse box to put the BATT feed in and the firewall - need a latching spade connector crimped on the end to fit in the empty half of fuse 7.
2. Terminate the GND - need to crimp a eye connector on this.
3. Feed the remaining three cables through the firewall to the passenger compartment.
4. Access the CJB and fit the IGN feed - you need add a pin in the green multi way socket so the connector needs to be disassembled. Fues 6P should already be fitted.
5. Find somewhere to splice into the HS CAN. Twisting remaining cable length if needed.
6. Once all connected, dress/wrap the cables in, working back from the battery box either over the back of the engine bay with the existing loom and down the driver's side (original routing I think) or straight down the passenger side with the bonnet release cable. I will use non-split convoluted tubing to protect the cable.
7. Present the cable to the cross member/radar with enough slack.
8. Make up and connect the 18 way connector for the radar unit. Connections are the following;

Pin 1 = BATT 10A fuse 7E - Purple/Orange 0.75 CSA
Pin 3 = GND - Black 0.5 CSA
Pin 7 = HS CAN L - Yellow/Black 0.35 CSA
Pin 8 = HS CAN H - Yellow/Brown 0.35 CSA
Pin 10 = IGN 5A 6P - White/Red 0.5 CSA

Once all connected and happy...replace the battery, ensure the radar is recognised, program and update FW as required.
Replace the bumper and go for a drive to calibrate/test it.

So a fair bit of manual work taking things out/off but electrically pretty simple.
It might be possible to pre-make the cable but the pin for the CJB will still need to be crimped on so better to make it as you go to get it all neat.

Feel free to comment as it is v1.0

RATA1 wrote:

OK - I had (and currently still have ) dumb CC but have both the 10 and the 4 way cable/connectors so when I fitted my new switch pack it was same as the old one.
I have heated wheel (but that is the other side) and flappy paddles so maybe there is the difference and why the additional 4 way is required. It just uses a resistive ladder I believe.
From the electrical diagram I looked at it just showed the vol +/- OK, set, res cruise with ACC etc. on the 10 way. So the additional 4 way may not be required if you don't have paddles?

You're right, the additional harness is for flappy paddles, which I already have The cruise controls is all CAN so obviously no extra wires required! FFS, so far I've wasted £120... hey ho, you live and learn.