It's been around a while and across the various locations its stored/referenced (that I know of) it is heading towards 100,000 views of the actual PDF's including the French translation! (Thanks Gecko)
So if you have ever used it, or have seen things in it that could be explained a bit easier or different tools/techniques to be used, now is the opportunity to make the changes into V1.7!
Things that have been mentioned in the past as follow up questions:-
Q. Do both back wheels need to be off the ground
A. No, as long as car is chocked at the front to be secure, you can put the car in Neutral to be able to rotate the wheel
Q. I cant get the large spring to stretch across to the other shoe
A. Attach the large spring to both shoes before putting on the car
Q. What order so I need to bleed the brakes in
A. from the furthest away from the brake cyclinder, so for RH drive vehicles, that's passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, drivers side front
etc etc etc.
So if you have any comments/feedback or adjustments that can be made to improve it, please let me know. I wont be offended, I just want to get it a bit better.
So improvements or changes in techniques or questions that need answering, please let me know.
I can't guarantee to be able to answer it all and I cant guarantee that all the input will go into the next version, but the more input that is here, the better it will become!Bodsys Brake Bible
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19th Jun 2015 10:21 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18573
One issue I have had is that a standard Halfords Professional/Advanced 15mm spanner is too fat to hold the caliper slider thingy06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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19th Jun 2015 10:27 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
You're right, I have a Teng 13, 15 and 17mm spanner which are thin enough to hold the slider without being trapped. Bodsys Brake Bible
I have a one from a Halfords Socket set that fits, and one from a set of Halfords Spanners that doesn't fit!
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19th Jun 2015 10:32 am
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
Martin wrote:
One issue I have had is that a standard Halfords Professional/Advanced 15mm spanner is too fat to hold the caliper slider thingy
I have had this same issue! right PITA! Found a spanner that fits perfectly but because it hasn't got space in my halfrauds set its gone missing
Also, you might want to mention that some of the hub nuts may be 36mm if the driveshaft has been replaced.
I'd add a wire brush to the tools list and suggest taking a minute to give the parts a good brushing if need be and ensuring the hub face is dirt free before fitting discs.
Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
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19th Jun 2015 11:29 am
ton.discovery
Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: Zaandam
Posts: 49
Are the torque setting still the same?
19th Jun 2015 12:04 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
How about a general point about re-lubricating after spraying lots of brake cleaner around? On the disc pad lug & shims and behind the EPB shoes especially.
A reminder that the calliper bolts must be HT steel 10.9? Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
19th Jun 2015 7:01 pm
WINDSWEPTISLANDER
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Way up north
Posts: 523
Any thoughts around cleaning, freeing off and lubricating the brake shoes for the EPB?
On mine, when I took them apart to find out what the problem was, one of the retaining pins - held in by springs - had corroded to failure. Over time the shoe had completely seized.
There was plenty of material left, I wire brushed, exercised the moving parts with a WD 40 equivalent - taking care to avoid getting any on the shoes.
Then I cleaned with brake cleaner and applied a tiny amount of high temperature grease. I was in two minds about using grease, would it help keep the brakes free moving or would it attract dust and exacerbate the problem?
In any case, the very useful, very well written brake bible was more than enough information to enable me to do all this.
22nd Jun 2015 9:12 am
Dai-Disco3
Member Since: 30 Nov 2014
Location: Southend on Sea
Posts: 180
How about following tips having replaced all flexi's this weekend
To gain access to 90 degree block on upper wish bone, lift the lower arm which reduces the angle on the top allowing access with 10mm socket and extension bar to the securing bolt.
Air driven impact gun useful in taking out lower 10mm bolt on front wish bone as impacts free it rather than shear it!
The pipe between the two flexi's on the lower suspension arm is 21 inches long, but needs to be bent using original as pattern, it has one clip holding this in place. It is a good idea to have one/two made in advance in case steel ones are corroded or tear when removing flexis.
The horseshoe clips on the front flexi, need to be levered out using spanner as pivot on hose as no way of getting a screwdriver in tight space to do this.
Flexis can seize into mounting brackets especially at front and are difficult to remove as limited access, but don't remove/release until you have eased off the flare nut.
If changing all corners have lots of brake fluid to get rid of air traps!!
Hope this helps, adds something
Cheers
22nd Jun 2015 10:01 am
DiscoJake
Member Since: 23 Aug 2013
Location: Hereford
Posts: 1429
A mention not to use WD40 etc around the dust boots etc due to risk of swelling.
I use a steel ruler to copper grease the Epb contact points while levering the pads away (to save dismantling the lot)
Otherwise still a superb doc
22nd Jun 2015 10:53 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
22nd Jun 2015 12:59 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
I just replaced my front brake pad sensor and got it confused with the ABS sensor connector. Steve at AF put me right, of course. What threw me was that the pad lead came fitted with an identical plastic spike clip that should be discarded. The connector internals are such that they cannot properly mate. Makes life tricky if working behind a peeled-back wheel arch liner. Feel free to use these photos, if you wish:
The ABS lead is on the left and the pad lead, as supplied, on the right.
The ABS lead is on the left, again, and the pad lead on the right.
In situ, but photo inverted , on my MY09 D3. Notice it's the ABS connector that does use the plastic spike.Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
15th Jul 2015 12:34 am
Dave T
Member Since: 03 Jul 2009
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 6910
Bodsy, it would be good to get some D4 pictures in it, I am getting close to doing my fronts so could provide if you haven't had any from elsewhere, just let me know. Are there any known differences in procedure, or is everything just a little bigger????
One thing I just noticed, page 33 under "12. How to replace the brake fluid and bleed the braking system", it then says "tools required to change rear brake discs"Joined the BMWX5 45e group
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15th Jul 2015 5:52 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
When I changed the rear shoes I found two sets of pads in the kit. I think the shoes were Borg and beck. So one set of clips were theirs and the other was Land Rover. The LR ones were best as they did not distort during fitting and held shoes against back plate. The others distorted slightly when compressed to fit and the shoe was leaning out a few mm. There again it could have been fitting error😉2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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