Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
  
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| Cambelt and HPFP belt change on an 08my Euro 4 D3 |
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I use my D3 for work pulling plant trailers around, and also for taking the kids to school. It does plenty of miles (c. 40,000/yr), and I would be really stuck without it. Hence I have to plan maintenance very carefully.
As it was just over 100,000 miles (and 9 years old  ) it was due a new set of belts. My local independent couldn't fit it into their workshop in a time frame that suited my work, so I decided to do the change myself.
Being an '08 model year it has the dodgy oil pump, so I needed to change that too...
Since this is half-term week, I don't need to take the kids to school and I kept the weekend mostly free from work. That gave me Saturday mid-morning to Monday 0700 to get it done.
I ordered all the bits I thought I would need in advance (thank you AF), and tried to find an oil pump. Disco Mikey didn't have any stock, nor did Citroen UK (they are on back order from France), so it was off to my local main dealer. They kindly gave me 10% off, but 90% of loads is still plenty... 
I also ordered some tools I needed. Both of these are highly recommended - timing pin kit ebay item number eBay Item No. 300864817111 and fan spanner and pulley holder ebay item number eBay Item No. 252015503360. The timing pins fitted fine, with no rubbing down needed, and the fan spanner and holder worked a treat. I'm quite happy to lend them to other forum members, but to be honest, for the price of the postage there and back, you may as well buy a set.
Disco Mikey has written a very comprehensive 'how-to' on the belt change, and Flack's oil pump supplement was excellent too. Huge thanks to both of them for sharing their expertise  
I thought I might add a few notes of my own;
I would recommend that you fully drain the coolant. There are lots of hoses behind the fan that need to be removed to get the timing cover off. Gallons and gallons of water gushes from them, all over the floor where you are about to lie to wrestle with the starter motor. Far better to siphon it out first...
HPFP belt was not too tricky, just needed a lot of components removing to make access easier
Starter motor... it is a bit of a pig, and the Haynes book of lies and a few threads I have read on here suggest unbolting the fuel cooler and pushing it up, out of the way. I would suggest removing it completely. Once it was removed, and the pipes (labelled before removal... ) are tucked up out of the way the starter motor comes out fairly easily.
Once the starter is removed, you can fit the crank locking pin. Lightly grease it before fitting - it makes it much easier to wiggle and rotate to help it into the hole.
The alternator is fine apart from the top rear-most bolt on the bracket. It is out of sight, and I struggled to get a spanner or socket onto it. The open end of a 10mm spanner fitted just, but only with enough turning room to get half a flat at a time.
Oil pump is pretty straight forward - wind a bolt gently into the belt tensioner mounting hole to 'pop' it off the engine block. I would suggest you order a spare crankshaft oil seal - it gives you the luxury of having a second attempt if you are not completely satisfied with the first fitting.
Also be aware that once the pump is removed, anything that falls down the front of the engine (sockets, leaves, the little seal thingies that go between the pump and the timing cover flanges will fall straight into the oil sump, and slide down towards the back of the engine out of sight.
The crankshaft timing belt pulley is not timed with a woodruf key, but just held in place with a large bolt that need to be tightened 100NM, and then 90 degrees. You can easily measure the 90 degrees by remembering each flat on the nut is 60 - so tighten with your torque wrench, and then a flat and a half
Remember to fit the smaller solenoid feed to the starter before lifting it back up into place, then pass the large cable through to the alternator. Fix the alternator end first, then the T connector on the starter.
It took me from 1100 on Saturday morning to 1730 that afternoon to strip everything down. Sunday was rebuild day, and there was 7 or so hours of work to get it all back running again. I'm sure others have done it quicker, and with the benefit of experience, I could probably take 2 or 3 hours off that next time it needs doing.
It is not a difficult job, but it is awkward, cramped, fiddly and surrounded by things with razor sharp edges. I saved about £500 on the price I was quoted by my indy, perhaps more when you consider I bought a genuine LR pump. Unless you love lying under your car, covered in antifreeze, or like me, you can't spare the truck for enough time, I'd be tempted to think about paying the extra to have it done.
PS. Whilst lying under my car, covered in antifreeze, I noticed the nsf inner cv boot is split... 
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 25th Oct 2016 5:56 pm |
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Admirable
Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Fife
Posts: 1034
 
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Good post!
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| 25th Oct 2016 6:06 pm |
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Barn1e
D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
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Good write up. Confirms I made right decision to ask Flack and Geoff. to do mine 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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| 25th Oct 2016 6:13 pm |
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Eagle_D4_Conversion
Member Since: 01 Jun 2016
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 82
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Really good post! It makes me glad I'm booked in with Geoff next week.
I'm no stranger to a spanner but this job is a little too big for me. 2008 XS Java Black
Geoff. & Flack Full Belts and Oil pump change
Full D4 Conversion, Wings, bumper, 2016 headlights & Rear lights.
22" Alloys (285/35) Full Autobox flush, full fluid change (Trans/diffs)
TPMS added, rear headrest screens.
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| 25th Oct 2016 6:53 pm |
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