I have just installed an Engine Watchdog to monitor my Engine temp and transmission temp. Apparently the thermostat opens at 87 c ,but my engine doesn't run much over 80c except when im 4wdriving in sand or heavy going ,I am not sure what the normal operating temp is.Also does any body know what temp the thermo fans come on so I can set the overheating alarm on the watchdog monitor.
Per the link below, I have a ScanGauge II attached to the OBD port on my NAS LR3 with the petrol V8. The factory thermostat is what we call here a nominal 195F, (90C) thermostat.
I note that normal engine temperature readout per my ScanGauge of my petrol seems about the same as your diesel. As such, I have copied below, the LR info with regards to the apparent design temperature range of the temperature gauge located in the instrument cluster. It may be that you could use the 120C temperature number below as a guide.
4.4 Litre Petrol V8
The V8 4.4 Liter engine is controlled by an Engine Control Module (ECM) manufactured by DENSO.
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
The engine coolant temperature gage displays the engine coolant temperature to the driver.
When the ignition is off the pointer needle returns to the cold position.
The engine coolant temperature sensor is connected to the ECM which monitors the sensor signals and converts the signals into a value for the engine coolant temperature.
This information is transmitted on the high speed CAN for use by the instrument cluster and other systems. For additional information, refer to Electronic Engine Controls (303-14A
The engine coolant temperature gage is the same on all pack variants. The gage has a blue segment for low temperatures and a red segment for excessively high temperatures.
For normal operating temperatures the gage needle pointer is positioned centrally in the gage display zone. The needle pointer position translates to the following approximate temperatures.
Engine Coolant Temperature ºC (ºF) Needle Pointer Position
Ignition off Park position
40 (104) Cold Blue segment
75 - 115 (167 - 239) Normal
120 (248) Start of hot (Red segment)
125 (257) End of hot
What follows below is a LR explanation of how the fan is supposed to work. You will note that the explanation leaves out any temperature numbers.
Electro Viscous Fan Operation Theory
The temperature of the cooling system is monitored by the ECM via the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor located in the cylinder head. The ECM uses signals from this sensor
to control the cooling fan operation and adjust fuelling according to engine temperature.
To control the cooling fan, the ECM sends a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal to the cooling fan
module (integral to the ECM). The frequency of the PWM signal is used by the cooling fan module to
determine the output voltage supplied to the fan motor.
The ECM varies the duty cycle of the PWM signal between 0 and 100% to vary the fan speed. If the PWM
signal is outside the 0 to 100% range, the cooling fan module interprets the signal as an open or short circuit and runs the fans at maximum speed to ensure the engine
and gearbox do not overheat.
The ECM operates the fan in response to inputs from the ECT sensor, the transmission oil temperature sensor, the A/C switch and the A/C pressure sensor.
The speed of the cooling fan is also influenced by vehicle road speed. The ECM adjusts the speed of the
cooling fans, to compensate for the ram effect of vehicle speed, using the Controller Area Network (CAN) road speed signal received from the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) module.
The ECM controls an electronically controlled viscous coupled fan to provide engine cooling. The ECM supplies the fan with a PWM signal that controls the amount of slippage of the fan, thus providing the correct amount of cooling fan speed and airflow. The EMS uses a Hall Effect sensor to determine the fan speed.
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
The 115C number sounds good. If you hear an alarm, then that will get you looking at the gauge.
My view of the temperature gauge is that LR put so much effort into damping it, that in normal conditions, it tells you nothing and I suppose that if it ever moves to the high end, something bad has already happened.
That was the reason for my ScanGauge. A few years back, I figure that the temperature numbers told me to install a new thermostat. That was my read of the fact the "normal" number of around 90C did not seem to be as steady as it had been. Installing a new thermostat brought back stability to the normal reading, hence changing out the original thermostat was probably the correct fix.
I doubt that I would never have determined that from watching the temp gauge.
Good luck with your WatchDog.
I note you said in your original post that you can read Transmission Temperature.
It seems with my ScanGauge that I cannot; that is a parameter that its software apparently is not programmed to read.
With the WatchDog, is tranny temp just one of the normal readouts or did you have to do something special to get those numbers?2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
The Watchdog is a basic unit which works off a sensor bolted to the motor and one to the transmission , therefore not reading the coolant temp ( I bolted mine to the lift point at the front of the passenger side head and to the body of the transmission) Apparently the plastic water housing in the valley of the V ruptures after time loosing the coolant ,the factory temp gauge does not pic up the problem until it is too late because it reads from the coolant cooking the motor ,this is the main reason these motors fail (overheat) The Watch dog reads from head temp so hopefully it will warn me in time.
I have replaced the water housing in the V once with a plastic one but have now found an Alloy one supplied in Australia which will solve one problem, I will try to attach a photo of it .
The transmission sensor usually reads 10c lower than the engine temp , I may have to replace my thermostat too as the engine barely gets above 80c when cruising on the main road .
I would appreciate seeing a jpg posted of the metal thermostat housing.
I presume that is for one of the diesel engines rather than the petrol.
Regarding the petrol, I came to the conclusion that it was easier and almost cheaper to replace the housing as a unit rather than just the thermostat, at least here in Canada. The price of the LR thermostat is almost the same as a new housing assembly complete with "free" thermostat already installed; LR can have odd pricing at times - some items too high and other parts less than one would expect.
I later found the WatchDog website so I now have an idea of how it works; thanks for saying where you installed the sensors.
I understand what you are saying. I had the frost-plug corrode out on my Buick 350 (5.7L) V8 engine a few years back and dump all the coolant on the road. When I eventually noticed steam coming out the hood, the engine temp gauge and low water level light had yet to show anything. Apparently the water pressure locked in the rad and hence the rad remained full while the block emptied. Since there was no water surrounding the coolant temperature sensor, it did not react until it was too late.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Sorry there's me rambling on about the diesel , how do you find the v8 ? I've heard you can get good economy if you tune them properly .
I'm not sure about my thermostat , how long does it take for yours to reach 90c? ,mine sits on 80-85 when cruising but my temp gauge sits just below half .
As to how long it takes for the ScanGauge to show 90C, that is not an easy question to answer.
It sort of depends upon the outside temperature. In the winter when the air temp is perhaps -20C, not rear unusual here, the temperature gauge needle moves to the middle certainly with ten minutes of city driving.
The heater starts to give off heat after about five minutes of driving, and the cabin will be warm in say 15 minutes if it is cloudy and perhaps somewhat less if it is sunny.
In the summer, one a +30C day, then the displayed temp can exceed the 90C number a bit but the temp gauge needle remains in the centre.
I would say that if your needle sits low, that a new thermostat is in order. At the same time, low beats high.
With those outside air temperatures, the ScanGauge readout rarely exceeds 87C and sits closer to 85C after about 15 minutes of city driving. As such, one presumes that the temperature question is pretty much a function of where the temperature sensor is located. In my case, since the ScanGauge reads off the OBD port, I presume the temp is from the temperature sensor located by the thermostat. It is however, not clear that the computer temp numbers are not some mix of water and oil temperature, and that goes for the temperature gauge as well.
I regard the Jag petrol V8 as a pretty good engine - particularly by Land Rover standards. It is more economic than most Ford and Chev pickup V8s. I note however that while the pickups are lighter, they have more wind load area but one can say that the AJ is certainly as good as any North American V8.
To me, while fuel cost is one parameter, repairs costs are the big one. I tend to think the petrol V8 is cheaper to operate that any of the LR diesels. That is also true of the American pickup diesels. The fleets tend to be moving back to the petrol V8's unless they really need the torque. They find that overall operating costs of the petrol engine pickups is less than the diesels. When I say petrol, I am talking from 5.7 to 6.2L and larger V8 engines.
LR is supposed to be introducing diesel engines back in North America this year, but with the VW thing, I am not hearing much about that any longer. At the same time, it looks like the D4 is being discontinued so the whole thing is moot. As to the current LR4, it now uses what I think is the Ford Eco Boost V6 engine that is now standard in may North American Ford F-150's. It seems like an OK engine in the F-150; as for the 4, I guess it is probably about the same as that petrol Ford V6 they were installing a few years back in the LR3 - it got you there.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=36112005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
16th Jun 2016 4:48 pm
Jlrjim
Member Since: 05 Mar 2014
Location: In the Land of Rover
Posts: 108
This a link to the Billet Alloy Water Outlet mentioned above.
That certainly is a fancy looking housing - probably has a fancy price as well.
I appreciate you finding such - did not know about it or the shop - lots of neat stuff.
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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how do you find the v8 ? I've heard you can get good economy if you tune them properly .
