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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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| Steering Angle Sensor failure |
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Does anyone know if the Steering Angle Sensor can go out of calibration without any mechanical work having been done on the car?
I have got a '56 plate TDV6 S which has a sensor issue. The customer has not had any work done to it since October last year, and it would suggest that the sensor is failing, rather than an external cause. Basically, it is sensing correctly in one direction of turn, but a slow turn in the the other direction is causing the reading to stick at certain points. The sensor controller is stupid enough to not realise that it is sending out nonsensical readings on the CANbus at one extreme of travel, even though the reading is not plausible to the receiving controllers (DSC, etc.). Live data shows the sensor reading over 360degrees out at straight-ahead wheel position, so the reading goes off the scale at one extreme.
None of this is helped by a CANbus issue to the radio, which I believe is a secondary problem (i.e. the CAN gateway problem is not responsible or due to the likelihood of a CAN issue at the Steering Angle Sensor) but annoys the customer anyway - her radio turns off again after 20seconds or so!
I know that the Steering Angle Sensors were a big issue on the early D3's, but cannot recall if changing one is a long job or "5-minutes" - anyone done one recently? 
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 28th Feb 2012 11:52 pm |
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amazing
Member Since: 05 Mar 2011
Location: chengdu
Posts: 1542
  
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mines dicky on full right hard lock makes reverse camera fail (maybe you could check yours) . will get it changed on next service. never had any work done or tinkering. Started after about 5mths. It is better to have and not need it then need and not have it.
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| 29th Feb 2012 6:30 am |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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I was thinking of just calibrating it and then watching to see what happens. The trouble is, you can guarantee that if it went wrong once, it'll do it again. If I had found that it was out by a full-lock and was still working in both directions, then the calibration route would have been the way to go. As it is, this D3 has a sensor that thinks the wheels are at 367degs when in reality they point straight ahead, and I'm sure it didn't leave the factory like that 
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| 29th Feb 2012 11:21 am |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
 
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had mine replaced a few years ago. it just failed. Duncan
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FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
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| 29th Feb 2012 11:22 am |
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guy lewis
Member Since: 13 May 2009
Location: leominster
Posts: 162
 
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Where are the sensors and what do they/it looks like as i think ive got a prob in this matter. Refer to earlier post about two weeks ago? Any info would be good. Cheers, Guy P.s Hope you can get to the bottom of the one your working on. D3 bonatti grey
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| 29th Feb 2012 8:43 pm |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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The sensor is a cylindrical unit with a rectangular box for the ECU sticking out of it. Positioned at the base of the steering column near the pedals.
I tried to recalibrate the sensor that has failed on the D3 I am working-on, but sadly it just drifted in one direction as soon as the wheel was rocked from side-to-side. So a new sensor is on order for the lady. 
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| 2nd Mar 2012 3:53 pm |
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guy lewis
Member Since: 13 May 2009
Location: leominster
Posts: 162
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Hi there just a few questions.Do you need to take much trim off to get to it? How much is the new sensor? Has the new one solved the problem. Cheers chap. Guy. D3 bonatti grey
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| 2nd Mar 2012 8:47 pm |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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I think it'll be Monday or Tuesday before the new sensor is dispatched. I need to keep the car mobile until then, however I think that when the time comes to do the sensor swap, the only significant bit of trim is the "roof" of the driver's footwell, which needs to come out to access the lower part of the steering column. Other than marking everything up for correct reassembly, I cannot do too much before then. As it stands, I have a sick little K1.8 Freelander1 that demands almost all my time to fit its innards back under the bonnet again, and a very sick FL2 Auto gearbox (but that's another forum!)
I'll keep you posted next week. Prices all seemed to be around £110+VAT. Secondhand units are around, but they are all likely to fail earlier than a new unit. I'll strip the old sensor down and post the results when I have made an autopsy.
Cheers
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| 2nd Mar 2012 10:43 pm |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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Finally received new sensor at the end of last week, so got the car on the slab this morning. Job went fairly smoothly, if a bit cramped in the footwell.... On RHD cars, it makes sense to feed your left arm around the back of the pedals in order to access the fixings that secure the sensor to the lower steering column support casting.
It was only when I came to fit the new switch that it dawned on me what had been nagging at the back of my mind about all the early D3's; there were loads of failures of these in development, and most of it was not down to the switch, but the plastic ring that drives the switch off the steering column. Lo and behold, the car I had in front of me was just the same. Although the new switch was much tighter, it was clear that the operation of it would be hindered by the plastic ring slipping around the column. I cannot fathom why it was designed this way, possibly some sort of safety mechanism to limit the drag on the steering wheel if the switch jammed, but it's rubbish.
What I did, rather than removing the whole column assembly, was to clean the joint between the plastic ring and the steel column with carb-cleaner (good solvent) and then blow it dry with an airline. By mixing up a bit of Rapid Araldite at a time, I was able to build a decent glue in layers between the column and the ring over the course of a couple of hours, without getting it all over the pegs on the ring that actually drive the switch around. Having tested that the ring was well and truly adhered, I rebuilt the switch onto the column support and retested the movement of the switch before recoupling the column parts together.
Symptoms did not disappear immediately, as I needed to reset the zero point on the steering angle, but having done the SASM calibration, I was able to sweep all the relevant modules (All_Terrain, DSC, etc.) and clear them down of any faults related to the historic failure of the SASM. Having then cycled the ignition off, then on again, the final fault in the All_Terrain module (which will not clear unless it is relegated from "Temporary" to "Historic") could be cleared down, and the vehicle driven as normal.
All I have to do on this car now is to strip the radio head unit out, find-out why it is losing comms to the instrument pack (and hence turns off after 20s), then I can make another customer happy!!
All above diagnostic interface was done with the Autel DS708, which is another option for people that don't have access to the pukka Landrover toolsets.
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| 13th Mar 2012 1:21 am |
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gullible
Member Since: 07 Nov 2015
Location: ACT
Posts: 4
 
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| Sorry for kicking open an old thread, but... |
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Hi, I have this issue now and was wondering if others were experiencing similar issues?
I was also wondering if there was any more information about the fix mentioned above. Did you glue the ring to the steering wheel to prevent it moving? or did you just build up layers of glue to reduce slop?
On reflection would it have been easier to remove the steering wheel and fit an new ring?
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| 7th Nov 2015 2:55 am |
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L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2083
 
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On a previous D3 I also had the Ring come loose on the column. The local Dealer said he should be trying to sell me a new column but put a spot of weld on it to make the ring tight. Seemed to work as I had no more trouble.
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| 7th Nov 2015 8:11 am |
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stew 46
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: cornwall
Posts: 10148
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I used a two pack glue on mine  been ok for the last 12 months -------------------------------------------------
if you cant hold on dont let go , it ill come in handy for something even if you never use it.
D3 SE 05,
110 s wagon 300 tdi SOLD
h top transit
crew cab transit
transit connect
ausa dumper, muck truck .
peljob 2.5 digger
06 L 200 crew cab
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| 7th Nov 2015 8:37 am |
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gullible
Member Since: 07 Nov 2015
Location: ACT
Posts: 4
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That's good to know.
Did you also change the sensor as you were there anyway or was the ring the only problem?
Also, what is the best method to get to the ring? How much trim do you have to remove to get access?
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| 7th Nov 2015 8:56 am |
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Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
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Just removing the trim above the footwell, and pulling the knee-panel off to get a visual on the sensor, is enough for access. Using an epoxy glue seems perfectly good for a long-term fix, just make sure the column is clean. The glue can be built-up in a couple of stages, not least if it starts to run. Oh, and don't put so much around the sensor that you glue across the static and moving parts, that would be bad!
Until the sensor dog-clutch ring to the column is solid, there's no point changing the sensor itself, just a waste of money.
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| 8th Nov 2015 1:05 am |
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