Member Since: 12 Sep 2009
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 180
Battery Drain issues
The battery on the Disco 3 has let me down again !
The alternator was replaced last year due to failure ,Then just before christmas it had a new Bosch S4 battery as it was only just managing to start the car. Its also fitted with a split charge Traxide SC-80 and an Odyssey red top second battery also brand new So everything should be good in the battery and charging department ! But as the vehicle is only really used on the odd day or weekend sometimes I feel that it only just has the enough power to start it .Lately thats been verified by the few times Ive seen the "Transmission Fault" on the message control but after a run and a shut down and restart the fault is cleared
But after parking it at the Airport the other week for 10 days with everything off and even left in access hight it was completely flat .The guys at the airport helped with a battery booster and it fired up but had a F on the dash ! left it running for a while then a shut down and restart and it cleared the fault
So being completely fed up I did a parasitic battery test today on the negative lead side with the meter on 10A settings everything off keys out etc etc... and found that on connection it read 7.74 amps ,Then when the CD stopped shuffling and the radio went out it dropped off to 1.33 amps .Pulled the fuses one by one under the bonnet fuse box nothing !
Did the glove box ones and the only one to make a big change was the radio fuse which drops it to 0.88 amps
The electric seats made a small change but nothing big and I pulled every other fuse in the glovebox,Is it odd that these things should be on though when its parked ? Or is that normal ?
Disconnected the SC-80 no change in readings ,
Also tried sending the car to sleep and the readings were 1.05 amps
Am I being unrealistic and battery drain of around 1.00 amp is the normal ! and leaving the car standing is the problem
Any help or ideas would be greatly received thank you
8th Mar 2015 7:22 pm
L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2083
The battery drain when asleep should be in the milliamps. I often leave mine over a week without any problems and when on holiday it has been left for the best part of 4 weeks and just starts with no issues. You are taking the key out of the ignition I assume.
8th Mar 2015 7:34 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
You definitely have a problem with a constant 1A drain on the battery; however, pulling the fuse can lead to erroneous readings as the ECU will initialise once the fuse is reinstalled. The preferred method is to measure the voltage drop across the fuse as the circuit remains intact and uninterrupted. There's also the option of using an amp clamp such as the Dilog DL6506 1mA To 80A AC/DC Mini Clamp.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
Last edited by Allan_T on 8th Mar 2015 7:41 pm. Edited 1 time in total
I have just cured mine, I fit a new alternator last year in September, when I checked it out it was drawing 80ma, so obiuosly a blown diode in the new one.
So i changed it for one I had reconned and I thought great thats it all sorted, but no it wasn't I still had a drain, after a few days of testing it when I had the time, it turns out my TMC module was causing the drain, changed that and no more drain.
But me after three days the battery went flat , so figured the alternator had goosed the battery, new battery fitted and now all is good . mine now when fully asleep is showing 16ma and jumps to 23 when the alarm led flashes.
so good luck tracing it.
Flack
Last edited by Flack on 8th Mar 2015 9:28 pm. Edited 1 time in total
8th Mar 2015 8:03 pm
grahamk
Member Since: 28 Feb 2010
Location: Dumgoyne
Posts: 1473
Disco_Mikey wrote:
I have a very similar issue, drawing 1.1A
Going to try a few software options over the next few days
It is clearly infectious!3 Flash Indicators
Clock on Dash
GVIF & Reverse Camera
D4 Bluetooth
EGR's Blanked
8th Mar 2015 8:06 pm
Dented Disco
Member Since: 12 Sep 2009
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 180
Thank you for the help and advise ... now I know theres a definite problem I will investigate further without removing the fuses this time...Is there any more fuse boxes in the car Im not aware of ?
Going to read and digest the link to Robbies thread
Disco mikey..if you have any luck with the software option please let me know as have an MSV 2 if thats all thats needed
8th Mar 2015 8:52 pm
grahamk
Member Since: 28 Feb 2010
Location: Dumgoyne
Posts: 1473
Mikey did a Reflash of my instrument pack cluster and it seemed to work for a while, but something else has started eating away at the battery. The battery is a duffer so I am going to bite the bullet and get a new one.3 Flash Indicators
Clock on Dash
GVIF & Reverse Camera
D4 Bluetooth
EGR's Blanked
8th Mar 2015 9:38 pm
MGCarr
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 703
Flack wrote:
after a few days of testing it when I had the time, it turns out my TMC module was causing the drain, changed that and no more drain.
TMC - is that the module next to the Body Control Module behind the battery?
I have similar problems with my Discovery; plus reduced traction, special programs disabled and intermittent loss of sport mode and command shift. I have been through the more common items, battery, alternator, gear linkage, bad contacts etc and was coming to the conclusion that the transmission control module was the next suspect, is it plug and play or does it need to be coded to the car?
1997 Defender 90 for the kids and I to have a go at some competitive off road RTV and Tyro trials, daughter picked up her first trophy over the August Bank Holiday.
Previous Land Rover history
1996 P38 4.6 V8 Autobiography
1996 Discovery TDi 300
1972 Range Rover 3.5 V8
LWB Hard Top Series 3
LWB Truck Cab Series 2A
Not been without a Land Rover for over 40 years - I must need therapy!
8th Mar 2015 11:29 pm
Dented Disco
Member Since: 12 Sep 2009
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 180
Update...
Followed Robbies guide regarding using the fuse buddy option ,But the only circuits showing any amps eventually went to zero after the car is fully asleep ....
However after connecting the Faultmate and reading though the codes I found a fault on the interior lights code is
interior lamps 1 Circuit B1D13 - general electric failure - circuit short to battery or open (intermittent)
interior lamps 2 Circuit B1D14 - general electric failure - circuit short to battery or open (intermittent)
After kicking myself for not doing this first... ! I cleared the fault the code is back once the light is pressed or the door is opened .I changed the bulbs for LEDS quite some time ago so thought I would change them back to bulbs ,But after removing the defuser cover I noticed the LEDS were on but just very low light like they are getting power though something else ? if that makes sense ....If just one of the centre LEDS is changed for a bulb then the low power feed stops!....
replaced all the LEDS for Bulbs and the fault is still there ,removed the interior lights both front and rear ..still the fault is there ..So removed fuse No1 from the glove box fuse board and this only controls the map reading lights either side of the interior lights
So Im guessing something controlling this is possibly duff or the wiring ?
Am I right in thinking the interior light is controlled by MOST ?..IPC ? or BCM?
If anyone can help please ..
22nd Mar 2015 7:49 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Well you must be getting closer!
The interior light drain should have showed itself on the main BJB feed and on link / JCASE fuse 15 and/or Link fuse 11.
The CJB / BCM controls a number of the interior lights, including the ones you see glowing, via FETs (Field Effect Transistor) that are controlled by the BCM logic. The fault codes you saw originally are pretty typical on those that fit those retched LEDs to their interior lights. The BCM sees them as a fault and they can cause havoc; I am not a fan of them and I only use standard bulbs.
LEDs draw a tiny amount of current but you need to confirm if there is any current flow when regular bulbs are fitted. If there is current flow when the vehicle is fully asleep then you will have to investigate the CJB / BCM. It is too early to condemn the CJB as it may not actually be commanded to shut-down due to another issue (eg IPC issue, ignition switch issue, lock actuator issue etc etc). You will need to be sure what is and is not asleep.
Returning to the big cartridge / Link / JCASE fuses in the BJB for a moment - as these have no test point they should be tested by an amp clamp from underneath or by adding jumper wires between the fuses and the sockets in the fuse box and clamping this loop of wire. Whilst I mention clamping from beneath and jumper wires in my guide I did not include a specific photo - I will endeavour to do so.
Sometimes CJB / BCM issues can be resolved by a vehicle reset (an IIDTool feature) or by a hard reset. I suggest you try and isolate all the errant circuits before you do this though to avoid chasing your tail.
Good luck and I am sure we can help you get to the bottom of this.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 12 Sep 2009
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 180
Thanks Robbie....
All leds now removed and replaced with normal bulbs .The fault code is now not reoccurring on the faultmate but still have battery drain showing on the DMM
23rd Mar 2015 7:21 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Dented Disco came to Robbie Towers today in an effort to understand the power drain.
After basic alternator and battery (x2) health checks, plus a check of all relevant grounds, came the fault code reading:
Quote:
VIN: SALLAAA138A4XXXXX
Vehicle scanned on 27-03-2015 10:47
Using IIDTool Pro V3.0 B2059
Audio Amplifier
B1A07-13 ( 2F ) Speaker 7 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
( at 78396 mi )
Audio System
B1D79-01 ( 28 ) Microphone input - General failure information - general electrical failure
( at 78403 mi )
Auxilary Heater
U1A44-6C ( 2E ) Fuel level
U3000-55 ( 2E ) Unknown
Body Control
U0155-87 ( 28 ) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( at 78393 mi )
U0300-55 ( 6C ) Internal control module software incompatibility - System programming failure - is not configured
( at 78393 mi )
Engine TDV6
P060D-27 ( 68 ) Internal control module accelerator pedal position performance - General signal failure - signal rate of change is above the threshold
Instrument Pack
U0159-87 ( 2E ) Lost communication with parking assist control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
B1A87-68 ( 28 ) Battery disconnection/ electronic control unit reset - Algorithm based failure - event information
Parking Brake
U0155-87 ( A8 ) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( at 78396 mi )
After recording all of these the codes were reset and running the vehicle again produced no new errors, but the compressor was noticeably slower than normal. More later….
With the Traxide dual battery and the BAS FBHIC disconnected the first thing tested was the alternator cable which showed zero drain. With the bonnet open, sensor disabled and the vehicle locked, some coffee was drunk whilst the vehicle took over 30 mins to go to sleep.
The cable to the BJB when asleep showed 125mA or more. The current cycled upwards in time with the alarm LED:
Click image to enlarge
Given the observation with the interior lights the initial focus was on the BCM power, particularly link fuse 15E (40 amp):
Click image to enlarge
As this JCASE style of fuse has no test points I used a homemade 'fuse buddy' to create a fused current loop. It showed around 22mA of current or so, but varied over time:
Click image to enlarge
As this current was pretty typical for the BCM in this state the search went broader and all fuses were checked with a test light (well, my second test light as the first one died) and carefully confirmed that those that should not have power did not and that those that should be powered did so. More detailed testing via the fuse test pins showed that fuse 26E (20 amp) had more power running through it than you would expect. Fuse 26E feeds the EAS control module:
Click image to enlarge
A fuse buddy was installed in this fuse position so that the current could be monitored. Removing this fuse did not awaken the vehicle (which is a risk) but it did drop the total current draw considerably. When I was happy that the current draw would not threaten my DMM fuse I used the fuse buddy to wire directly to the fuse position and used the DC clamp on the main BJB feed to take simultaneous readings:
Click image to enlarge
So it was clear that the EAS module was drawing 58mA or more (it was much higher than this before the fuse was reset), with the rest of the vehicle drawing about 26mA (for a total of 84mA).
Remember my mantra about disabling all aftermarket accessories? Well the discussion on the EAS drawing power prompted Dented to remember his EAS modifications that allow him to adjust air suspension heights via a switch. By the EPB is this control panel:
Click image to enlarge
Today's testing confirmed that the EAS is drawing power when it should be in a suspended state. This could be a problem with the EAS module itself, its wiring or a wider system issue that is preventing it from sleeping. However, the prime suspect has to be the aftermarket modification. Dented Disco will be disabling this system in due course to see if it removes the power drain.
Oh and the suspension running a bit slow? Final fault code checks showed this:
Quote:
VIN: SALLAAA138A4XXXXX
Vehicle scanned on 27-03-2015 13:14
Using IIDTool Pro V3.0 B2059
Suspension
C1A13-64 ( 2E ) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( at 78470 mi )
Along the way a small transmission oil leak and a small coolant leak were also noted, just to add to the fun.
The diagnostics took a few hours (we did chat for a while, you know how it is) but this testing really is something that can be done DIY to avoid expensive dealer diagnostic time. It will be interesting to see the result when the aftermarket kit is removed.
Hope this helps.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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But as the vehicle is only really used on the odd day or weekend 
sometimes I feel that it only just has the enough power to start it .Lately thats been verified by the few times Ive seen the "Transmission Fault" on the message control but after a run and a shut down and restart the fault is cleared
me after three days the battery went flat 
. mine now when fully asleep is showing 16ma and jumps to 23 when the alarm led flashes.
! I cleared the fault the code is back once the light is pressed or the door is opened .I changed the bulbs for LEDS quite some time ago so thought I would change them back to bulbs ,But after removing the defuser cover I noticed the LEDS were on but just very low light like they are getting power though something else ? if that makes sense ....If just one of the centre LEDS is changed for a bulb then the low power feed stops!....
