seanbmccarron
Member Since: 25 May 2024
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 4
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Hi guys
Im a bit confused now with my faulty tailgate. It meets all the criteria of a faulty switch (upper tailgate opens from dash lower tailgate opens ok with switch )
After research I went to go change switch & someone had already attempted the repair.
Touched the stripped wires together to check latch unlock functionality without switch - nothing.
Is there a voltage reading I should expect on the two stripped switch cables?
Is there another step before moving onto the lower tailgate solenoid change?
Plus if there is nothing happening at my switch not sure how the lower tailgate solenoid change will alleviate issue upper tailgate switch not functioning?
Hope this explanation of my situation so far with tailgate makes sense and any help of the ideal next step would be greatly appreciated
Thanking in advance
Sean
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 25th May 2024 1:23 pm |
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Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 352
 
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Hi I replaced my switch with a ford galaxy one for a £10
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| 26th May 2024 7:12 am |
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seanbmccarron
Member Since: 25 May 2024
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 4
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UPDATE
Measured voltage at the switch cables - 5v
Thought the crimp did not look the best from previous attempted repair so decided to take of crimp , strip back to original copper.
As stripping the cable it just popped off in the tool back to the body. Water ingress in cable id imagine.
Now need to start researching how to strip down the upper tail gate trim to gain access to change the whole harness.
Wish me luck
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| 26th May 2024 9:12 am |
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seanbmccarron
Member Since: 25 May 2024
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 4
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SORTED UPDATE
Upper tailgate now opening from switch
Using these two videos I was able to change the whole switch/lighting harness
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?si=32wTi_HfPHFq-K3s
Felt it was important to update as through all my trawling of forums and YouTube the tailgate issue was all switch and lower solenoid change information.
Lesson learnt from my experience now is a whole switch/lighting harness change is also a fix.
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| 26th May 2024 1:17 pm |
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Leon
Member Since: 26 Apr 2014
Location: Leamington Spa
Posts: 434
  
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I've had it twice (on my old D3 and my new D4)and know of 2 others where the wires to the switch itself have corroded where they come out of the main loom where its wrapped in tape.
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| 26th May 2024 6:22 pm |
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Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 352
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To change the switch and handle you have to dig out the old one using screw drivers then cut the wires as close to the old switch as you can then connect your new switch using solder or but connectors then while it's out test it.as once you new one goes in you'll need a nother one as digging it out breaks the 2 clips.
Enjoy
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| 27th May 2024 6:48 am |
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Weedyapl
Member Since: 23 Sep 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 81
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This just happened for me. In Australia we don't appear to get that white crap interferring with the switch she was clean as a whistle. Upon investigating the cause was one of the wires had actually corroded completely through in a spot where the wires look to have been rubbing only the shielding was holding it together. I didn't even notice it until I accidently broke the wire and corrosion spewed out i had to take back a good 10mm to get to clean wire. Aidan
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| 30th Jul 2024 1:22 am |
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Gnomad
Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Harbor Springs
Posts: 65
  
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It's fun when this happens and you need to get the lid open.
I found a long stick and pushed against the lid while pushing the dash buttons, and that did work.
That $500 LR3 is getting its money's worth out of me. It's become the who's who of Rover Wretchedness. Anyways, on the plan is to dig a switch out of the ol' ham radio junkbox and apply some field engineering.
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| 19th Oct 2024 2:48 pm |
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