Member Since: 12 May 2009
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 384
Cheers Miley and Biffysun
I knew it was one of the new type AMK compressors but the angle of the pipe does not look straight and the loop coming out is lower than the cover and am worried about it getting ripped off
Anyone got any photos of what theirs looks like
Ids
4th Mar 2013 7:09 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20733
They do sit lower than the cover. This can probably be rectified by cutting the pipe slightly shorter so the new pipe sits higher on the old pipework.
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Hey Mikey, GREAT help , gonna try it myself on Monday . Nevertheless still a question: do I deflate the complete system or will the car stay up using it's valves (power off then off course).
Regards, Bruno
19th Apr 2013 11:00 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20733
The car will stay up on its own. You are only depressurising the pipe between the dryer and valve block
I would still jack the car up and use axle stands though. Access is a bit tight doing it on the floorMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 19 Apr 2013
Location: België
Posts: 8
Hi all,
I have an '06 Disco 3 and about two weeks ago the amber light started to light up, and the day after it was the red sign, with the low speed modus.
I've called a LR mechanic, and he immediately confirmed it was the compressor.
I got new AMK set and fitted it yesterday (via the great instructions of Mikey).
When i started the car after replacing, all went well, first it raised slowly but after a while it was all ok (i guess)
Then later in the evening i took it for a test drive, but after 1km the amber light was there again.
So after a bad night sleep, i took it for a test again, but now after less than 1km it's red again, with the slow speed modus.
Is it possible that the software upgrade would have to be done first?
Because i didn't have it been done.
Any help is much appreciated.
Regards,
Noah
19th Apr 2013 11:20 am
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Disco_Mikey wrote:
The car will stay up on its own. You are only depressurising the pipe between the dryer and valve block
I would still jack the car up and use axle stands though. Access is a bit tight doing it on the floor
Thanks Mikey, I will let you know how it went
Bruno
19th Apr 2013 11:37 am
Discothree
Member Since: 19 Apr 2013
Location: België
Posts: 8
No one??
22nd Apr 2013 1:37 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Discothree wrote:
No one??
Hey Discothree, the only expirience I have with "the red light" is the blown 60A fuse, after replacing it the warning-light turned orange because there still was a fault; put AMK in, replaced fuse and relay, fixed
22nd Apr 2013 1:44 pm
StornowayStu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 331
Discothree wrote:
I've called a LR mechanic, and he immediately confirmed it was the compressor.
If all mechanics could diagnose things immediately over the phone it would be awesome. I suspect you may have had more than one problem - maybe an air leak which caused the compressor to try and keep up but ultimately fail so you have now replaced the compressor but still got a fault elsewhere. Get the fault codes pulled. Did you also change out the relay ?
It *may* be the software although a few people here have said the AMK works fine with the legacy software.
22nd Apr 2013 1:49 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Mikey Mikey Mikey
Did the AMK as you discribed, piece of cake with your help
Took the old thing apart to see what was making my life so miserable
I think it all started with a leaking seal between the cylinder and the dryer due to corrosion
Then the piston had to work almost continiously and so hard that he regularly overheated so the plastic guide around the piston started to melt (not the ceramic top)
It even left miniscule pieces
I do believe that because of the heated plastic the frixion between the piston and cylinder was too high to normally operate with the world-known orange and red lights as result
Thanks to Mikey we ride again!
22nd Apr 2013 3:06 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
PS This one lived for 197000 kms
22nd Apr 2013 3:25 pm
Discothree
Member Since: 19 Apr 2013
Location: België
Posts: 8
Man man man, obviously i've changed it for nothing.
Yesterday, i gave it another shot, raised the suspension to visualise if there could be a leak or so, but what do i see behind the left front wheel, under the a arm... a broken plastic arm on the sensor.
This must cause the issue, it's a lesson learned. But maybe would have had to change the compressor anytime soon!?
23rd Apr 2013 10:23 am
sarumlight
Member Since: 07 Nov 2008
Location: Off the Plain
Posts: 1590
Discothree, I think you need to find someone who has the equipment to read fault codes, or look into buying a fault code reader. Diagnosing what's wrong on these without that is expensive guesswork - you're not the only one to learn that don't worry
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
. Nevertheless still a question: do I deflate the complete system or will the car stay up using it's valves 
(power off then off course).
is the blown 60A fuse, after replacing it the warning-light turned orange because there still was a fault; put AMK in, replaced fuse and relay, fixed 
Mikey 
