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Wheel Nut Torque vs Anti-Seize
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Robbie
 


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United Kingdom 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 4

Phew, quite a response!

Bottom line is my previous teaching is correct and copper grease plus full torque is bad.

So now I have 20 nuts and studs to clean this weekend. I think brake cleaner is pretty good at shifting copper grease, together with the ubiquitous blue roll. What fun.

Thanks to all is the debate above has been a good refresher.
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Post #88937227th Jan 2012 6:06 pm
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Bodsy
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Yup, used exactly that on someone else's car the other week.
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Post #88939227th Jan 2012 6:47 pm
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SHARKYSHARKS
 


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I have always put a dot of copper slip on wheel stud in the 30 years in the job and never had any problems especially on commercials.
And until you have had a snapped stud because it hasn't been off for a while, Shocked because its as dry as nuns clout ....
and then have to strip it to replace it you will know why i apply a bit of the shiny copper magic .... works for me but everyone to thier own Wink
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Post #88939827th Jan 2012 6:56 pm
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Bodsy
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United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Your referring of course to steel wheels generally where the use of copper grease and similar is commonplace and torque is 'stand on it' tight. but not to be used for alloys.....
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Post #88944327th Jan 2012 8:31 pm
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Splitpin
 


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But the threads are steel to steel?

I have seen so many threads damaged from being so dry they squeak, that some lube is required.

BMW use some form of clear grease from the factory.
  
Post #88954128th Jan 2012 6:01 am
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Ken
  


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only on the hub not the thread promise ive seen more BMW wheels than most

simple rule with wheel bolts / threads dry only it is that simple
 

Last edited by Ken on 28th Jan 2012 8:03 am. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #88954728th Jan 2012 7:00 am
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Splitpin
 


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That's all good and well on never vehicles, on some the wheel bolt thread is exposed behind the bearing and does go very rusty.

From all the instances I have see where wheels have come loose there is another reason like aftermarket wheels with no spigot rings or incorrect rings, wrong taper fixings and bolts/nuts tightened with weight already on the wheels.
  
Post #88955128th Jan 2012 7:50 am
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Ken
  


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Never seen a rusty bolt on a BMW or Mini cross threaded over torqued from the factory yes ( and your local tyre monkey) but not rusty Confused

Rusty nuts on the Defender all day long lets face it if you have a regular maintance programme in place the wheels should be off enough times to prevent failure

BMW service action is to clear crud and apply brake grease to the mating service
 

Last edited by Ken on 28th Jan 2012 8:29 am. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #88955528th Jan 2012 8:17 am
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Splitpin
 


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I have seen more BMW minis than most Wink and they corrode like crazy, the black finish just turns to rust.

I can't see how they could cross thread at the factory as a cool machine puts all 4/5 in at the same time Smile
  
Post #88956028th Jan 2012 8:25 am
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Ken
  


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if you say so Laughing
  
Post #88956328th Jan 2012 8:31 am
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Robbie
 


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Shocked

Ok, I now understand that the 'dry nuts' is not a universally held opinion which may make me a little more forgiving of the garage that did it (not done by my regular indie).

I'm a wheel swapper anyway so my nuts are removed at least 3 times a year (probably more) so less chance of binding corrosion. Like my indie, I do apply a little copperslip on the hub/wheel centre with only positive results.

Interesting debate all the same.
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Post #88960728th Jan 2012 10:40 am
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sarumlight
 


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Well I've learned something - will find something other than copper slip to use on the hub spiggot since it corrodes the alloys! Thanks!

And I'll carry on putting nothing on the threads, and checking the torque after 50 miles Smile
  
Post #88972628th Jan 2012 3:30 pm
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