Had the front diff in our D3 (TDV6, MY07) at our local LR dealer replaced yesterday. I got there a bit early and they were not finished with the car. I noticed that they had connected a battery charger to the battery and then connected their "diagnostic computer" after removing the charger. They told me that whenever you charge the battery you have to reset the "battery monitoring system" afterwards. Is that true? Never read anything about it before. I also asked them how I could then charge my battery with my Ctek at home and they replied that to circumvent any potential problems due to the battery monitoring system I should make sure to connect the negative (black) clamp not to the negative pole of the battery BUT to the body of the car. Any thought or confirmation that that's the proper way?
They also attached a battery tester (looked somewhat like a faultmate) with LR/Jaguar logo on it to test the battery. The display showed "test impossible" and they told me that the battery need replacing. Interestingly I asked them to do the test on the new replacement battery with the same result!? Anyone know what kind of tester that thing was and if it is any good/reliable?
Hopefully will have some time this weekend to post the first impressions of Steve's IIDTool.
Cheers
Lars
9th Dec 2011 1:14 pm
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
This sounds like rubbish to me - I've never heard of this being necessary and I know lots of people regularly charge their batteries in winter without ever needing to connect to a diagnostic machine.
The dealers nearly always connect a battery charger in supply mode when connecting the car to IDS as otherwise the battery can go flat very quickly.
I also don't understand why you should connect the -ve to the chassis and not the battery terminal. Either way should be fine and I would always connect directly to both battery terminals.
The fact that they took the time to explain this is strange though, so maybe there is some truth in it, but I've never heard anything like this 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
9th Dec 2011 4:56 pm
Alan G
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 1372
I know using battery jumper packs etc they specify connecting the - to the engine block something to do with the electronics i believe?ATB
Testicles is the polite word In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Down and out's Velar
In UK - Dare not say on this Forum
Gone - Lots of Lode Lane vehicles.
- Beta User
9th Dec 2011 6:28 pm
nicedayforit
Member Since: 05 Sep 2011
Location: Beside the Solway
Posts: 369
@Alan G
You connect to the engine block with the -ve lead on jump starting, after having connected the +ve to the battery, so that if you happen to get sparks on connecting the sparks are well away from the battery and won't ignite any hydrogen gas emiting from the battery.
9th Dec 2011 6:44 pm
sirdeck
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: Germany
Posts: 55
The thing is, why does the diagnostic computer (the one they use for updates, service interval resets etc.) offer this battery monitor reset option? I don't think LR added this "feature" just for fun. They actually explained something about this battery system monitoring current flows and this gets disturbed by the external charging. Without the reset, sometimes the "electronic brain" of the car will detect a fault and could start to shut down unnecessary electrical systems like the heated windscreen or heated seats. They said that sometimes they had cars in for a service and the next day the owner returned with the problem that the heated seats didn't work -> then they reset that battery system and everything was fine again.
I'm more worried that they sold me a broken battery because that other tester read "test impossible". Anyway I will give the new battery a good charge with my ctek and see how the voltage looks like.
Thanks for the replies
Lars
9th Dec 2011 8:17 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Not heard of this with the D3 and my battery loves its ctek. Managed over 6 years on my first battery (the old 850cca version) and my new one (installed this summer) is sitting outside connected to a ctek via the tow electrics.
I have heard of the cheap 'rapid' chargers playing havoc with some cars so there may be a grain of truth somewhere but not heard of any issues with the D3.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum