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Rossco.vw
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 5
  
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| Help wanted - remote Australia -electrical fault |
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Vehicle: 2007 D3 TDV6 SE 115200kms on clock
Problem: Receiving following fault warnings.
Air Suspension fault with additional illumination of three indicators
1 air suspension system
2 dynamic stability control system
3 Brake system
When this occurs the vehicle goes into limp home mode. It is then necessary to turn it off and re-boot the system. However, the fault warnings have been continuously recurring.
Prior to leaving Melbourne, the dealer replaced the Transfer case ECU due some internal corrosion.
After 3000kms , we received the first warning which was checked out by the LR dealer in Alice Springs, central Australia. There were some fault codes but they thought they were old codes not previously renewed.
A further 1200 kms further North, we are in Darwin and have had the local dealer look at the frequently recurring problem. Fault codes found were
PO101- PCM mass air flow meter
PO2290 OOPCM injector control pressure too low
They checked these out and could not fault the hardware. Subsequently they carried out engine control software upgrade -removed battery-transfer case module-cleaned injectors on PCM-tightened connectors-carried out TCM software upgrade and reset the vehicle. Following this, we have covered only about 150 kms without further problem until this afternoon when we experienced a repeat.
Darwin is very remote and we are due to leave here in 3 days for the even more remote Kimberley regions of northern West Australia - serious 4x4 country. From here it will be around 5000 to 6000 before we get to the next dealer in Perth. I would appreciate any ideas/solutions.
Thanks,
Rossco.vw Ross Popp
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 9th Aug 2012 1:41 pm |
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Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
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First port of call with any random and unusual warnings has got to be to replace the brake switch. It's fitted to the brake pedal. It is a low value item, approx £8 in UK (12 AUD?) and has been well documented to cause lots of various warnings, brake and suspension faults and the displaying of the usual 3 warning lights. ( Hill descent, park brake etc. )
The replacing of that item alone has helped resolve many suspension and brake warning issues for fellow posters so definitely worthy of replacing in your case if only to eliminate it.
Second port of call, and for all the same reasons as above, replace both brake bulbs, even if not blown or apparently faulty, with genuine LR items.
You may not think these are related to your problem but that is exactly what previous owners have said only to have to eat their words when replacing both solved their woes and for circa 20 AUD, you've nothing to lose. 
Both the above are very well documented issues on the forum and have helped many D3 owners by resolving their complex and often confusing random warnings and happenings. Limp mode and suspension lowering, multiple warnings and odd dash lights to name but a few have all been common with both of these issues as has a restart appearing to resolve problems only for them to return a few miles, or sometimes a few feet, down the road.
Good luck.  Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
Last edited by Narpy on 9th Aug 2012 7:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 9th Aug 2012 7:00 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20786
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| Re: Help wanted - remote Australia -electrical fault |
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Rossco.vw wrote:
PO2290 OOPCM injector control pressure too low
Low fuel pressure, HPFP is not getting enough fuel.
Could be as simple as a blocked fuel filter, and definately the cheapest place to start My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 9th Aug 2012 7:10 pm |
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fmb123
Member Since: 04 Jan 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 125
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had exactly the same issues over a year ago.
a main dealer in devon replaced the ECU as it was corroded
50 miles later it happened again. a different main dealer in london claimed it was a faulty connection. which they 'fixed'
got in the next morning to drive up north. having had a very very tiring journey of havijng to turn off and on every 30 mins i took it in to a tiny scottish garage. and the first thing he said was i bet you it is a brake bulb.
change in 30 seconds and havent had a problem since!! wish i had known then about this then, but hadnt started reading the forum as only just got the car!!
so much for the knowledge of some main dealers!!
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| 10th Aug 2012 1:42 pm |
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90 Rangie
Member Since: 17 Dec 2007
Location: Central Queensland
Posts: 121
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Also if you are using an external chip for extra power disconect this as they cause a lot of problems with these cars as the car is too smart for these, as it checks the fuel pressure of the car to make sure it is within a range of pressure that it tells it to be.
Also make sure you are not left foot braking or bumping the brake pedal with your left foot.
Good luck.
Also pay to check aftercooler pipe is not split.
James Do not take life too seriously no one gets out alive anyway!
MY 8.5 Izmir Blue HSE Disco 3, ARB Bullbar, IPF HID spot lights, GME TX3440 all in mic UHF, Tripple batteries (2 x Yellow top aux under bonnet), Prodigy brake control, tinted widows, ARB compressor (under bonnet), Prem sound, Prem Nav, Electronic steering column, Adaptive lights, Center fridge, Active diff, Hybrid TV, Side moulds.
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| 11th Aug 2012 4:38 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
 
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Similar issues to the brake light/switch can be caused by low voltage. Check the connections to the battery and the battery voltage.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 11th Aug 2012 9:50 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
  
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| some files re the brake light switch and circuit |
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CarverD3 is correct re battery voltage problems throwing false codes but in the hope that the solution is simply brake switch or tail/brake light bulb related, below is a link to an album in which there are some files related to replacement of the switch as well as brake light circuit wiring diagrams etc.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5082 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 12th Aug 2012 4:03 pm |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Hi Rossco, first off, have you ever had a flat cranking battery, no matter what might have caused, this can lead to problems similar to yours because the battery has probably never recovered.
If so, do you by any chance have a solar panel with you, because if the battery is the problem, a simple boost charge may tell you.
If so, when you have a stopover for at lest a few hours, if the panel is around the 80 to 100w size, make sure your ignition is off and the key removed then connect the solar panel straight to your cranking battery.
Not through a regulator.
Also, if you have a dual battery system, disconnect between the cranking battery and the isolator.
Leave the solar panel charging your battery for as long as possible and if you can, do it over a few day.
If you have a digital multi meter, see what voltage you charge the battery to.
Don’t be surprised, or worried, if it gets up around the 17+v make, you won’t harm anything.
Once you have given the battery a good boost charge, see if the messages and faults cease.
If so it’s the battery, if not, then if nothing else, at least your battery will be in a better state than it was. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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| 14th Aug 2012 8:49 am |
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redjelly5000
Member Since: 18 Jul 2008
Location: Rugby
Posts: 473
 
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Had this problem a couple of years back. Had me and my service agent stumped for months. I tried so many things as suggested on here including the brake light bulbs, but it turned out to be the infamous brake light switch problem.
I didn't replace it though, I easily dismantled it and thoroughly cleaned it especially the contacts, and re greased it and refitted it to see if there was any improvement, and I never had the problem since. Cheap to replace, even cheaper to clean!!! And cheaper than a trip to the dealer!
Give it a try, you never know! And you could do that even in the most remote of places! D3 TDV6 HSE 2008 Buckingham Blue (current)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2009 Zermatt Silver (previous)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2005 Maya Gold (previous)
D2 TD5 ES 1999 (previous)
Defender TD5 swb hard top 2005 (previous)
Defender 300tdi swb hard top 1994 (previous)
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| 14th Aug 2012 11:47 pm |
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redjelly5000
Member Since: 18 Jul 2008
Location: Rugby
Posts: 473
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http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic34546.html D3 TDV6 HSE 2008 Buckingham Blue (current)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2009 Zermatt Silver (previous)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2005 Maya Gold (previous)
D2 TD5 ES 1999 (previous)
Defender TD5 swb hard top 2005 (previous)
Defender 300tdi swb hard top 1994 (previous)
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| 15th Aug 2012 12:27 am |
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Rossco.vw
Member Since: 20 Oct 2010
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 5
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Hi all, a late but thankfull reply to those that answered my call for help.
LRA and two of their dealers proved unable to resolve the issue. I tried bulbs unsuccessfully and finaly resorted to change the brake light switch. It appears to have worked.
The area we are in is fairly remote (now done over 11,000km s since we left Melbourne) Great 4x4 country. Whilst we note the huge predominance of Japanese makes. LR still has a long way to go to get reliable and l=knowledgable dealers in this part of OZ.
Thanks for the help.
 Ross Popp
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| 16th Sep 2012 2:22 pm |
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redjelly5000
Member Since: 18 Jul 2008
Location: Rugby
Posts: 473
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Glad you sorted it. D3 TDV6 HSE 2008 Buckingham Blue (current)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2009 Zermatt Silver (previous)
D3 TDV6 HSE 2005 Maya Gold (previous)
D2 TD5 ES 1999 (previous)
Defender TD5 swb hard top 2005 (previous)
Defender 300tdi swb hard top 1994 (previous)
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| 16th Sep 2012 3:03 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| Doubt LR believes the brake light switch causes problems. |
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At times, I doubt that Land Rover believes the brake light switch causes any problems and this leads me to believe that the new replacement brake light switch contacts are the same as the removed brake light switch. The only real change in design of the switch is the Land Rover logo to the Ford logo. This means that every few years, a new switch should be installed.
The set of contacts that is normally open operates the brake lights; the other set of contacts that is normally closed sends signals to the ABS module.
I theorize that dust from the deteriorating brake light set of contacts fouls the ABS contacts and leads to intermittent operation of the ABS contacts during normal driving particularly when one is not using the brakes. Since the ABS circuit communicates with the Hill Decent circuitry and that affects the transmission and engine controls, then anything is possible. For the most part, we are fortunate that all we get are false error messages and threatened system shut downs. Toyota has a recall out on a few thousand of their vehicles here to replace the brake light switch as when faulty, the engine will not start.
http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/03/08/...ht-issues/
http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/03/09...-failures/
Somewhat like the silicone grease problem Toyota has, my reason for thinking the black dust causes problems with the second set of contacts is that that signal thru that set of contacts is closer to being a millivolt signal than the two or three amps of current powering the brake light filaments. In other words, the dust from the brake light contacts interferes with the flow of signal thru the ABS contacts. That is why cleaning up the interior of the switch can resolve the problems and will probably remain OK until the ABS set of contacts become fouled again.
As to why other vehicles do not seem to suffer this malady, well no other vehicle, (except maybe some Jeeps just recently), has a Hill Decent system.
As above, while I do not think my theory would now be a hard sell at Toyota, I do not believe it is shared by Land Rover. One solution could be to seal off one set of contacts from the other. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 16th Sep 2012 4:36 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Had new brake switch on brand new D4 as it wouldn't start (did eventully but after several pushes of the pedal) D3 has never failed. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 16th Sep 2012 8:19 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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| So D4 now incorporates Toyota "engineering". |
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caverD3 wrote:Had new brake switch on brand new D4 as it wouldn't start (did eventually but after several pushes of the pedal) D3 has never failed.
I guess the positive spin would be that the D4 reacts in the same manner as some Toyota products re the brake switch. I suppose Toyota now knows that a brake switch can be a show stopper even if it took near 200,000 units to make the point.
I assume the brake light switch on the D4 is the same one as on the D3? I wonder how many units Land Rover has to build before a problem is perceived. Sealing the contacts from each other would I think resolve the concern. I wonder what Toyota did - clean gloves for the workers? Somehow I doubt it. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 16th Sep 2012 9:24 pm |
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